The battery on my phone will now get a decent break. Honestly, I was checking my tracking details every few hours or so, hoping for an update. 

I am 100% pleased with this light. A polished light in every aspect in my opinion. Ironically, going from polished to tarnished copper is actually a positive thing. 

Thanks Rey for all your work on this for the group. This is one time I wish I had to go to work tomorrow, just to have the opportunity to show it off. 

After all of this over, I wish Rey would organize a GB for AA copper light

Received!

sandalian wrote:

After all of this over, I wish Rey would organize a GB for AA copper light

there is also

I dont know how those work, or if they will let me know when I can buy one.. you can vote though..

Coincidently mine arrived yesterday matching Gunga and Bigwood. Customs and Canada Post are fair. Thanks Rey for making this excellent light. This is my first tool and the clicky button is worth the inability to tail stand.

My pkg arrived on Friday.

EXCELLENT beam tint!

Thank you for choosing the 219 for the GB!

Just received mine, and it’s great — thanks Rey.

One annoying problem, though: it’s got a full-power preflash when turning on in low, at least on the 10440 I’m trying in it first.

If anyone’s unfamiliar with “preflash”, here’s a discussion: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?356740-Preflash-with-...

Anyone else noticing this?

Eciton wrote:

full-power preflash… on the 10440

sounds like 10440 is not compatible…
if thats the battery you want to use, considered a ToolVn or Eagletac D25aaa

you know the Tool is not rated for 10440 voltage and that if you keep using 10440, after a while Eneloop will no longer work right?

I’ll try with different chemistry, thanks for the response!

I’ve used a Maratac AAA, standard Tool and Prometheus Beta QR Copper with 10440 for years with no problem and no preflash, so I’m not afraid of burning one of these lights out now!

Just received my light today too. Overall its fantastic. The lowest output is lower than my Promethius Beta QR2, and the highest output is higher. Plus the finish is top-notch and the reverse clicky switch feels great. I seriously love this little light.

Here’s a photo of mine hanging out with its copper cousins:

One note – mine also exhibits the pre-flash the last few comments above are about. This is the first I remember it being mentioned in this thread. Do all the lights do that or only our two (so far)? It only does it on 10440, but I can make mine do it repeatedly by turning it on to the highest setting and letting it run for at least several seconds. Then turn the light off and wait at least several seconds. Now when you turn it back on it’ll very quickly flash back to high before going to low. Turning the light off in medium or low does not cause the same behavior.

EDIT: Its been pointed out to me that this light was never meant to support 10440 and they could quickly damage these lights. I know of at least one that now has a destroyed boost driver because of trying to use 10440, so it’ll no longer function with primaries or eneloops. Mine has shown no permanent ill effects from using 10440 but I don’t think I’ll do it any longer. That solves the pre-flash issue as well.

Whatz the diameter of the driver?

Eciton wrote:

I’ve used a Maratac AAA, standard Tool and Prometheus Beta QR Copper with 10440 for years with no problem and no preflash, so I’m not afraid of burning one of these lights out now!

I respect your experience, which I lack.

emarkd wrote:

Just received my light today too. Overall its fantastic. The lowest output is lower than my Promethius Beta QR2…

*great info!
*great photo!

One note – mine also exhibits the pre-flash the last few comments above are about. This is the first I remember it being mentioned in this thread. Do all the lights do that or only our two (so far)? It only does it on 10440, but I can make mine do it repeatedly by turning it on to the highest setting and letting it run for at least several seconds. Then turn the light off and wait at least several seconds. Now when you turn it back on it’ll very quickly flash back to high before going to low. Turning the light off in medium or low does not cause the same behavior.

EDIT: Its been pointed out to me that this light was never meant to support 10440 and they could quickly damage these lights. I know of at least one that now has a destroyed boost driver because of trying to use 10440, so it’ll no longer function with primaries or eneloops. Mine has shown no permanent ill effects from using 10440 but I don’t think I’ll do it any longer. That solves the pre-flash issue as well.

excellent and thorough detail
makes me wonder if preflash is associated with the new NoPWM circuit
Previous MaraTacs, Tools, BeTas and Worms, that did not have the ring around the LED, were PWM based.

Maybe the old PWM circuit has no preflash on 10440 and only the new NoPWM driver preflashes?

Another factor may be the Nichia, but my money is on the Current Control. Im not sure how N219 responds to power, possibly differently, than previous XP-G2 PWM driven heads on Tacs, Tools, Tas, and Worms (all LuminTop Cu)



above left to right Thrunite TiXmas, Maratac Rev3 prior to Oct2015, Prometheus Beta Cu
note lack of ring around the LED on the two CU lights

two examples of the ring around the LED, ReyLight in the middle, Maratac Oct2015 to its right:

It’s the new driver, not the Nichia emitter. My Promethius Beta QR2 has the same emitter, no issues on 10440. For that matter I’ve got larger lights with the Nichia emitters that run on various sizes of 4v li ion cells. The Nichia emitters are fine with it.

Besides, this light contains a boost driver anyway. The emitter wouldn’t even illuminate at 1.5v.

ChibiM wrote:

Whatz the diameter of the driver?

11mm

emarkd wrote:

It’s the new driver, not the Nichia emitter. … Besides, this light contains a boost driver anyway. The emitter wouldn’t even illuminate at 1.5v.

that makes sense:

emarkd wrote:

… now has a destroyed boost driver because of trying to use 10440, so it’ll no longer function with primaries or eneloops….

RotorHead64 wrote:

ChibiM wrote:

Whatz the diameter of the driver?

11mm

Thanks!

Even better than expected!

Thank you Rey

Thanks Rey, for arranging this.

Got my copper Tool in. I agree with almost every aspect: the clicky, the copper, the l-m-h no memory, the mode spacing, the no PWM, the milder knurling, the 4000K 219B V1. I'm not a great fan of Rey's logo styling but that is minor compared to the rest. I'm a very happy camper, thanks Rey!

I asked for 4 drivers extra and got just 2 (I'll PM Rey about this). They are cute little drivers with a very small torroid:

WWEFANS wrote:

djozz wrote:

I asked for 4 drivers extra and got just 2 (I'll PM Rey about this). They are cute little drivers with a very small torroid:

Waiting for the PM,  pls send me your paypal email address so I can check the payment record.  and pls also take a photo of the shipping label and the backside of it.

Sorry for the trouble.

Thanks for the quick response, PM sent

Rey - what's the official battery compatibility on these? I've been running mine on a 10440 - wasn't aware of any restrictions, no info in the OP. I know this is using a different driver? I thinks? 

Please post details here. Thanks!!

I started to worry because my package isn’t moving since Dec 30 2015.

I hope it will arrive anytime soon.

update jan 20
the boat is moving now, yay!

Is it still possible to get in on one of these lights?
If so, could you pm me the price please? Thank you they are awesome..!

I am really looking forward, never used PayPal to send but geez it’s flawlessly easy.
Thank you for your extremely quick reply, greatly appreciated..!

One of the improved (IMO) features of the Reylight coppper Tool compared to the stock Lumintop version is the lowered low. I did a runtime test to see how long it lasts. I used a Duracel alkaline AAA for that ('Duralock'), but all alkalines should do about the same.

It starts with a useful 1.68 lumen, which is high for a real 'moonlight'. I stopped at 10% of the start output, 0.16 lumen, a true moonlight which is still a useful output: it is good for finding your way in a bedroom without waking someone up, and it still allows you to follow a track in the woods. The battery measured 0.96V resting voltage by then, and on my simple battery tester it measured 'replace'. It took almost four days to get there, which I find a nice period. Strangely, although the light was still on after four days, after switching it off it would not come on again (a new battery worked fine). Perhaps the MCU wants a minimum voltage to start, but while running, it does not switch off with a too low voltage?

Great runtime test! Thank you for sharing. I do love this little light. I think I remember reading earlier in this process where Rey wanted to get a true moonlight out of it but it just wasn’t possible. This was the lowest they were able to do, and it is much better than the stock.

djozz wrote:

Perhaps the MCU wants a minimum voltage to run, but while running, it does not switch off with a too low voltage?

I’m glad someone else noticed this cause I thought I was crazy. I’ve definitely seen similar behavior out of mine. Its working one minute, the I turn it off and it just won’t come back on. First time it happened I thought it had died Luckily a new cell fixed it right up.

I will try to find out at which state of an alkaline the light will not start, for now I assume that that will only be with an almost dead battery.

Just for clarity’s sake, this happened with me on NiMH. I’ve got a house full of eneloops; no alkalines here. Shouldn’t matter though I guess – voltage is voltage.