Whatz the diameter of the driver?
I respect your experience, which I lack.
excellent and thorough detail
makes me wonder if preflash is associated with the new NoPWM circuit
Previous MaraTacs, Tools, BeTas and Worms, that did not have the ring around the LED, were PWM based.
Maybe the old PWM circuit has no preflash on 10440 and only the new NoPWM driver preflashes?
Another factor may be the Nichia, but my money is on the Current Control. Im not sure how N219 responds to power, possibly differently, than previous XP-G2 PWM driven heads on Tacs, Tools, Tas, and Worms (all LuminTop Cu)
above left to right Thrunite TiXmas, Maratac Rev3 prior to Oct2015, Prometheus Beta Cu
note lack of ring around the LED on the two CU lights
two examples of the ring around the LED, ReyLight in the middle, Maratac Oct2015 to its right:
It’s the new driver, not the Nichia emitter. My Promethius Beta QR2 has the same emitter, no issues on 10440. For that matter I’ve got larger lights with the Nichia emitters that run on various sizes of 4v li ion cells. The Nichia emitters are fine with it.
Besides, this light contains a boost driver anyway. The emitter wouldn’t even illuminate at 1.5v.
11mm
that makes sense:
Thanks!
Even better than expected!
Thank you Rey
Thanks Rey, for arranging this.
Got my copper Tool in. I agree with almost every aspect: the clicky, the copper, the l-m-h no memory, the mode spacing, the no PWM, the milder knurling, the 4000K 219B V1. I'm not a great fan of Rey's logo styling but that is minor compared to the rest. I'm a very happy camper, thanks Rey!
I asked for 4 drivers extra and got just 2 (I'll PM Rey about this). They are cute little drivers with a very small torroid:
Waiting for the PM, pls send me your paypal email address so I can check the payment record. and pls also take a photo of the shipping label and the backside of it.
Sorry for the trouble.
Thanks for the quick response, PM sent 
Rey - what's the official battery compatibility on these? I've been running mine on a 10440 - wasn't aware of any restrictions, no info in the OP. I know this is using a different driver? I thinks?
Please post details here. Thanks!!
I started to worry because my package isn’t moving since Dec 30 2015.
I hope it will arrive anytime soon.
update jan 20
the boat is moving now, yay!
Hi,
It was reported that using 10440 might change the driver to a direct drive, it won't go back to normal AAA again.
Is it still possible to get in on one of these lights?
If so, could you pm me the price please? Thank you they are awesome…!
I am really looking forward, never used PayPal to send but geez it’s flawlessly easy.
Thank you for your extremely quick reply, greatly appreciated…!
One of the improved (IMO) features of the Reylight coppper Tool compared to the stock Lumintop version is the lowered low. I did a runtime test to see how long it lasts. I used a Duracel alkaline AAA for that ('Duralock'), but all alkalines should do about the same.
It starts with a useful 1.68 lumen, which is high for a real 'moonlight'. I stopped at 10% of the start output, 0.16 lumen, a true moonlight which is still a useful output: it is good for finding your way in a bedroom without waking someone up, and it still allows you to follow a track in the woods. The battery measured 0.96V resting voltage by then, and on my simple battery tester it measured 'replace'. It took almost four days to get there, which I find a nice period. Strangely, although the light was still on after four days, after switching it off it would not come on again (a new battery worked fine). Perhaps the MCU wants a minimum voltage to start, but while running, it does not switch off with a too low voltage?
Great runtime test! Thank you for sharing. I do love this little light. I think I remember reading earlier in this process where Rey wanted to get a true moonlight out of it but it just wasn’t possible. This was the lowest they were able to do, and it is much better than the stock.
I’m glad someone else noticed this cause I thought I was crazy. I’ve definitely seen similar behavior out of mine. Its working one minute, the I turn it off and it just won’t come back on. First time it happened I thought it had died 
Luckily a new cell fixed it right up.
I will try to find out at which state of an alkaline the light will not start, for now I assume that that will only be with an almost dead battery.
Just for clarity’s sake, this happened with me on NiMH. I’ve got a house full of eneloops; no alkalines here. Shouldn’t matter though I guess - voltage is voltage.