I have not had trouble with 12 x 380 ma 7135 in my CNQ.
Okay djozz, I’m relying on your superior understanding of the 219C.
I want to build a triple, and it’s my understanding that a BLF DD driver would not be prudent for this emitter.
In a properly copper heatsinked torch with a regulated driver what do you feel would be the ultimate current to drive this emitter to perfection. I mean getting everything it can give (safely) before it starts playing games?
Edit: or would a DD driver be okay in single cell parallel setup.
And what would be the best in a single emitter light?
I have been running a single 219C with a FET+1 driver in a beater host (one of the fake red S2+ from GB) for the past couple of weeks. I like it. Good tint with power-to-go when you need it.
It does OK with the FET+1 driver, but I would not recommend the simple FET DD drivers. The low modes would be terribly inefficient, with huge PWM current spikes.
My FET+1 driver is set up to use mainly the 7135, with a single turbo mode that uses the FET for DD only. The turbo mode has a 30 s timeout. The driver also steps down when the driver voltage drops below 3.4 V, and this happens very quickly on anything but a fresh IMR/INR cell. I will probably change the step-down to 3.2 V to better match the low Vf of the 219C.
The pill is aluminum, which I suspect is doing better than a brass pill would. The body heats up instantly when going DD, but the current is reasonable. < 5.2 A, even with fresh-off-the-charger 30Qs. Springs will smoke and absolutely needs to be bypassed or low resistance bronze type. Not sure how long the switch will last. I am using 1.5” 22AWG wires.
So guys it should handle 2.8A in thermal modded P60 dropin?
MIke
2.8A through a 219C is a very decent current provided that it is mounted on a dtp copper board. And a triple 219C on a direct driver should be fine too, but very proper heatsinking should be taken care of.
In fact I have a triple 219C with a BLF-A6 driver (direct drive FET+7135) in the titanium Rey-host that has fairly lousy heatsinking. I do not dare running it with a 18650 on turbo for longer than 30 seconds, but longer on a 18350.
This thread is very helpfull.
I made my choice.
The beautiful s4 host(fasttech) a BLF A6 A17DD + 7135 (banggood) and a 219c from intl-outdoor.
And a NCR18650B
It will be a great EDC ;
If diode draw too much amps .I will mod a Nangj for this light.
I want 6.2 amps :bigsmile:
Waiting everything arrive.
Thank a lot for this thread.
Somebody know wherre to buy copper pill for this hoste and I can buy a SMO reflector for it?
@PyroLight: make sure that your heatsinking is very good! And at 6.2A I'm sure the led-lifetime of 50000 hours will not be reached ;-)
It’s because of this I’m searching copper pill for the S4 host.
I find one for S2.
But impossible to retreive the site.
Where did you find the S2 pill?
can’t retrieve the site. I was hopping somebody as the link.
Ebay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/True-Copper-pill-slug-to-install-Carclo-6mm-height-triple-TIR-into-Convoy-S2-S3-/261940436045?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cfcdddc4d
It’s ended and for triple.
Sorry.
If you want 6.2 amps, I expect the NCR18650B is not the best battery.
I bought the BFL Special Edition A6 flashlight. It, of course, uses the same driver you are getting. In the A6, I am running a Samsung 30Q.
Maybe you can adjust the resistance with the springs and wires to get six amps with a particular cell type. More than six would definitely be bad.
Right!
I neglected to say that I am barely getting 4 amps out my A6s. That's because I do not have the springs bypassed.
Hum thank’s for every answer.
But I want to understand something.
I have my Jax Z1 with sbt 70 and a FET driver.And with a NCR18650B and I got 8.90 amps.
But I know the vf of the sbt70 is 3.3v. The 219c as 3.8volts? If I’m right the fet driver can deliver the maximum amps the diode need?
But I don’t planned to lower the resistance of all springs to limite the current.
4.5 amps with the ncr18650b is possible? Or you got the max amps with a 30q?
If I don’t get blue tint shift I’m okay.
Edit: I don’t want to get the maximum amps in the led. This light will be my EDC light. I’m waiting every parts of the light.
How do you adjuste the resistance? If I let the spring whitout any solder braid. It will limite the current. I think I will get a great 4 amps.
Sorry to say, I am not qualified to help out with your mods. Hopefully, someone will be able to add to what you have posted.
I am concerned, however, that pulling 8.90 amps from a Sanyo/Panasonic NCR18650B exceeds the maximum continuous discharge current specified by the manufacturer for that battery. I have one (evidently older) document from Sanyo that specifies 4.875 amps as the maximum. On web sites like Orbtronic's, I frequently see 6.8 amps (2C).
I believe NCR18650B are Panasonics.
Right. Panasonic purchased Sanyo, including its battery division. I have edited my post above to say Sanyo/Panasonic instead of Sanyo.
A rose by any other name is still a rose. It looks like an 8.90-amp draw is significantly more than this battery is rated for. What say you?
uff…too bad my english.i ask-will be a big difference i output between xpl triple hi and this?:
http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S022932