Put a 1A driver (AK-47C 3x7135) set up on three modes into a TG06 after filing it down to fit. Used an extra 5A XPL from my bare BLF A6 (7A XPL HI in it now) and made a nice EDC14500 light out of it… I have been enjoying less than max amps builds lately…
Swapped out the driver in my "Junkyard" mod & changed the emitter to a de-domed XP-L V5.
I'd had the driver in & out a few times, changing the resistors, & it was a pain to solder the heat-strap each time, so I modded it with a couple of PC motherboard standoffs, so I could just unscrew it.
The XP-L survived at that level, whereas it blew the XP-G2.
It punched out just under 600Kcd after focusing.
I've left enough slack in the LED leads so I can measure with the clamp meter, when the group buy goes ahead.
Nothing better to do on a gloomy Sunday… Old Coast G10 with Nichia now…
The G10 AAA light that Coast used to give away was one of my first flashlights, but once I found BLF, the G10 seemed underpowered.
I’ve kept it around because I really like the light. It is solid, and has a forward clicky tailcap switch, which is pretty cool for a AAA light, but I never could figure out how to disassemble it, or even figure out if it COULD be disassembled, until I found a thread last week (this one, I think, Simple Mod for a Coast G20) that showed the head removed.
Anyway, I got my son to get the head off (arthritis for me, so I have to recruit muscle nowadays). It was glued on there bad, but he got it off, and then I sat around trying to figure out how to get the driver out.
I eventually just took a pair of needlenose and ripped that out, since I knew I was going to put another driver in, to get modes.
The driver I wanted to use is the “AK-007” driver from DX.com/dxsoul.com (MEGAJUDI303 : Slot88 Slot Online Gacor Maxwin Pulsa Tanpa Potongan).
I soldered that driver to the original cheapo emitter but when I tried it with a 10440, I think it killed the emitter. I didn’t have any 10mm emitter boards, so that sat around for awhile… somehow I had a hard time ordering ONE 10mm star for $2+ and paying $2+ more for shipping…
Finally, I got this idea…
I still have a bunch of Nichia 119s that I bought from texaspro awhile ago (Nichia 119's for cheap (also Cree XLAMP-7090's)), and although I really like the tint, there’s only a few places that I’ve been able to use them, but I figured that maybe I could cut off the tophat emitter, run a wire through each of the holes in the original emitter PCB, bend the wires over, and solder one of the 119s to the wires, i.e., make a kind of homebrew star for the 119.
I just got that done, and amazingly it worked. The emitter is really badly off-center but this light/reflector seems to be pretty forgiving of that, and I now have a 10440-powered light with a forward clicky and Nichia 119 with nice tint.
I don’t dare take the light apart, but I got some external pics for you all:
Off-center emitter:
and white wall:
Hopefully the pics will show up - I’ve had problems hosting on onedrive before!
Opened my OPUS Dreamcharger, took out the fan, lubed it with a drop of Hoppes, and re-assembled. No more grinding noises from the fan and no more threats of being thrown in the snowbank by my wife. Take that in any way you wish but she really,really doesn't like that fan.
Swapped the driver out on my uf-1405 to a Mtn dd 17nm that I assembled today, wow. This thing now melts away the night. It already had a mt-g2 in it, now it’s just silly how bright this thing is.
I swapped the switch in my UF-2200, it had a slightly suspect forward click in it and now it has a good reverse click Omten in it. I really do not like forward click switches, I like to set the mode after a light is on.
I rounded up the parts to build a MTN 22DD driver, hope to get to that one evening this week!
I molded my back to the couch watching football. Wierd day on the gridiron.
Indeed, it’s been a very interesting playoffs so far.
…………………………………………………
I just got done building the first TripleDown driver, eventually destined for a total rebuild of my S8. Now to get the FW working….
I started on one of my new Romisen RC-A8s.
It is straight forward but there are several things to do.
Those Romisens look like great throwers, as in: the shape looks perfect for a good grip and fling them a good distance 
Today?
Some minor work on my DQG Tiny IIIs:
- The one with the 3.8 amp driver: Simple emitter swap of the Nichia 219C with triple XPL HI. For these small triples, the XPL HI produces a noticeably brighter and throwier beam.
- The one with the FET driver: Some minor rebuilding of the switch internals. Previous build worked flawlessly except the switch didn’t give a satisfying click when pressed.
Finished my Brinyte B158 build, 15 min after receiving it i instaled dedomed xp-g2 S2 1D and today exactly one week later drivers arrived so the B158 got its FET driver, it is the BLF FET driver from banggood.
According to my DMM (which is not the best in the world) it pulls 4.5A with fresh Samsung 25R at the tail. I’m happy with the results 
Swapped my Skilhunt H15 NW emitter out for a warm white XP-G2. I need to find a High CRI XM-L2, but figured I would see how easy it was to swap. It is a good light for modding, and the warm white has much less glare up close. The original NW is a good tint too, just wanted something warmer. 16mm star, so no filing for a custom size…
Nice, do you have pictures?
not really much of a mod but I finally upgraded the stock U2 1A to U4 1C
well at least I’m using noctigon instead of stock aluminum
(notice my poor cold solder joint. I kinda gave up with my dying soldering tip)
Simple mod today, swapped the emitter of my SR mini II to XML2 T6-4C
The 2 x AAA RC-A6 that I have on order will make an even better javelin:
It now has a reverse clicky and a 17DDm FET +1 driver with BLF A6 firmware. I would put better glass in it, but for the life of me I can't get the head open. I really love this pocket rocket. Getting 4.8 amps out of a 30q. In town I can light houses at 2.5 blocks.
Yesterday I coated the threads of some cheap flashlight ( Ultrafire F13; Small-Sun ZY-R13; and other…), had much tolerance with the tailcap.
I used aluminum adhesive tape (0.12mm thickness.), The work came good, now the tolerance is “free but without tolerance” (roughly). After I recommend using Teflon grease.
In the photo, left without modification; to the right with the change.