I confirm that, just recieved a mail, they ask me could i wait just a little….10-15 working days, maybe a little bit more….
What can i say, i was so exited about that flashlight….
Oh well, stock is acceptable. Time to start setting aside cash for batteries for this ridiculous beast. :P
Have batteries, will wait.
Nice to see you contemplating again Justin, warming up a bit huh? 
Beautiful day today, just gorgeous out… 65 and a light breeze, blue skies, but I’m sure we’ll get some nasty yet, always seem to in late Jan or early Feb.
I think its time for you to accept the SI system, that 65 is kinda scary to me
Celsius, meters, good things like that 
He was speaking in Celsius.
it gets hot in Texas
OMFG! Realy? I cant believe that! Once i had 54 in Egypt back in 1999 and i never ever want to “feel” it again
65……and Tamafly costs 130$….Texas isnt a place for me realy :bigsmile: realy 65? Come on, its unholy temperature
Tom… here we go…
Edit: Sorry, forgot to mention, each LED was tested for 20 seconds.
It was difficult taking photos with my mobile phone of all the readings I took. I eventually only took 2 photos of my setup.
Here I’m measuring a fully charged 25R. I’ve used the 25R to get an indication of the voltage drop when applied to an XP-G2 S4 LED. With initial contact, it dropped to 3.99-4.00 volts.
I then had to dialed in my power supply (seen in the background) to 4.70 volts to get 3.99-4.00 volts when applied to the LED. The wires running from my power supply is thin and quite long.
The wires running from the amp meter to the LED is 18 gauge and around 10cm long. The amp readings I get on this meter is 99% in line with that of my Fluke Clamp Meter.
Here’s what I got. From low to high readings:
IOS XP-G2 S4 2B, domes on
4.6 Amps | 3.97 Volts (18.262 Watts)
4.6 Amps | 3.98 Volts (18.308 Watts)
4.7 Amps | 3.95 Volts (18.565 Watts)
4.7 Amps | 3.96 Volts (18.565 Watts)
4.8 Amps | 3.94 Volts (18.912 Watts)
4.8 Amps | 3.94 Volts (18.912 Watts)
4.8 Amps | 3.95 Volts (18.960 Watts)
4.8 Amps | 3.95 Volts (18.960 Watts)
4.9 Amps | 3.93 Volts (19.257 Watts)
I then reflowed my only 5 x FastTech XP-G2 S2 2Bs onto 16mm noctigons, domes on
4.6 Amps | 3.97 Volts (18.262 Watts)
5.3 Amps | 3.85 Volts (20.405 Watts)
5.3 Amps | 3.86 Volts (20.458 Watts)
5.4 Amps | 3.85 Volts (20.790 Watts)
5.7 Amps | 3.78 Volts (21.546 Watts)
For the fun of it, I them measured 5 x XM-L2 U4 1C I had available, dedomed
4.7 Amps | 3.95 Volts (18.565 Watts)
4.7 Amps | 3.95 Volts (18.565 Watts)
4.8 Amps | 3.93 Volts (18.864 Watts)
4.8 Amps | 3.94 Volts (18.912 Watts)
4.8 Amps | 3.94 Volts (18.912 Watts)
Sorry, forgot to mention, each LED was tested for 20 seconds.
That's right, it only gets that hot down here ;)
shrick - wow, lot of work there - great info! Interesting the FT XP-G2's had the greatest variance, where the S4's and U4's were pretty much in the same range. You did get some high amps from those S2's though, more inline with what Mitko gets I'm suspecting from those #'s. Wonder if the reflow method of temp/time/solder used makes a difference, or just that there's such variance in the LED's, or something. I'm suspecting this more and more, since Mitko does high volume, seems to be fairly consistent results, while for me, I'm a little all over the place - different methods, maybe different time/temps, and I got lower amps on S2's mostly, even with domes on so not related to dedoming.
Will be there a group buy for this light ?
Hope so, soon. freeme's doing it - see his last status on it in post #325 here, probably running the GB from this thread: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/35973
Direct drive / solder using 18AWG copper wire, XP-L HI 3B.
BOSS1 on top, TK61 (stock) at the bottom.
How come TK61 so dim? You are outstanding during contest with Courui.
TK-61 gettin schooled by the Boss!
Impressive!
Could you please take some shots from a longer distance?
I weld professionally for a living. I am pretty sure electrons move from the negative pole to the positive pole when a circuit is established. When you work on your automobile you remove the negative wire from the battery to ensure the livelihood of the various computer modules. I do not wish to argue about basic electricity theories, but, Prove me wrong.
This is why I usually do emitter current readings from the negative wire, if something touches ground it will simply bypass the mcu and go direct drive off the cell. If I were to be using the positive lead and touched ground, I would be shorting out the high discharge cell… ALWAYS a bad thing!
Did I miss something? What the heck is the last 3 posts have to do with anything preceding in this thread? Edit: Ohhh - posts #305 and #306
I'd rather here from freeme - what's the status of this group buy happening? Seems like GearBest was fantasizing on selling them. Anyone here any more from GearBest? Still listed as 3-5 days, as is most of their flashlights.
I believe vendor has placed order with Palight today. I am a bit reserve about the quantity that needs to be stocked up. Remember to act fast if you want them.
I understand GearBest intention and I am totally fine with it. It is true that they do not have ready stock but that doesn't mean they will not deliver right? 
Someone deleted his comment, It was about taking amp readings according to electrons flow… Back on track now…