I’ve caught up on adding links to the op. There are a number of projects out there on the forum that aren’t listed partly due to their prototype nature and also due to my reluctance to mine the forum for these things without their creators stated approval. If you’ve posted something and I’ve missed it or wish something to be added go ahead and list it here or feel free to wack me with a pm.
A special stackup intended for a variety of high-power and low weight circuit designs. This service features a 0.032” (0.8mm) thick PCB, and includes 2oz (2.8mil, 70um) copper. That’s half the thickness of our standard boards, and with twice the copper!
Thin board, thick copper…imagine the current J)
P.S. Pilotdog…been watching your shares on OSHPark…wowzer…you are off the chain on designing man…great job!
Man this is sweet…… Same price as the original boards too! For drivers the thickness was fine, (but still an upgrade to the copper) but the half-thickness is fantastic for the tailcap boards. I’m ordering some right now!
A lighted tailcap controlled by a small MCU. Something like mashm did, but with one or two proper boards for it. Yeah, and while you’re at it, please add a smd-fuse as a short circuit protection like LegolasGT did. Yeah if we could have them all combined, would be neat, don’t you think so? But again, I was just joking around. I’ve yet to try out any kind of LTC, so which of your boards should I try?
I can draw a board in eagle, but I don’t know how to design a circuit. Mashm’s solution is awesome, but I would need some help to do that. I’m not really sure what the point of the fuses is though. Seems like it would add a whole lot of resistance.
Of my boards, it depends how many extra parts you want to buy. I suggest reading the LTC OP and last few pages of the thread to see the newest stuff
Yes, thought that too. But I liked the idea of an additional safety feature for high-drain-unprotected-cells-power-build applications. I think he came up with that in combination with his 3,7V->6V 3A-out boost driver, maybe it made more sense in an electronics-way with that driver.
Since there will be less glass to conduct heat, you should probably cover more area with copper when laying it out.
I just did a mod. where the driver had to sit under the pill, as sometimes done on SK-68s. A thinner board would have saved me some filing.
What is our collective experience on OSH Park’s removing copper from the edges of the board? We are all aware that this is normally done. They require a 15mil setback for traces, but since our copper pours are not really traces it’s standard for us to specify copper right up to the edge of the board. Somewhere along the line a little copper is removed in order to prolong the life of the router bits used to cut the boards. How much are we talking about? I’ve just checked several boards using a feeler gauge and to me it looks like less than 0.2mm in all cases.
If you didn’t get your answer elsewhere already, the cap was moved due to a problem with voltage boosting upsetting the MCU. Comfychair, with help from other members, explored this pretty thoroughly in the FETs and gate resistors - scope images thread. Since the thread is now devoid of pics, here’s a link that shows the pics with the posts: Oops - looks like I’m having a connectivity issue right now so I can’t finish renaming this at the moment. For now you can go here and click on the link with a size next to it.
It’s a part of the big fancy groupbuy that’s about to go to the ordering phase. So in a month or two we will either have a few hundred raving fans, or a few hundred angry customers.
Most likely a couple raving fans, a few hundred quietly content fans, and a couple dozen noisy, angry customers that will steal the show and try to make it look like a failure. :weary: I’m expecting to be one of the happy ones.
The thicker copper that oshpark offers now will wick away heat to the side better. Hmm, that could be interesting for ledboards too. There are many leds for which a dedicated board is not easily available, Nichia119, LuxeonZ, LuxeonC color line, to name a few. These can be made at Oshpark by using large poors to the side from the solder pads for heatsinking. Nothing for high wattage, any MCPCB will work better, but for low output builds it could work.