Even better than expected!
Thank you Rey
Thanks Rey, for arranging this.
Got my copper Tool in. I agree with almost every aspect: the clicky, the copper, the l-m-h no memory, the mode spacing, the no PWM, the milder knurling, the 4000K 219B V1. I'm not a great fan of Rey's logo styling but that is minor compared to the rest. I'm a very happy camper, thanks Rey!
I asked for 4 drivers extra and got just 2 (I'll PM Rey about this). They are cute little drivers with a very small torroid:
Waiting for the PM, pls send me your paypal email address so I can check the payment record. and pls also take a photo of the shipping label and the backside of it.
Sorry for the trouble.
Thanks for the quick response, PM sent 
Rey - what's the official battery compatibility on these? I've been running mine on a 10440 - wasn't aware of any restrictions, no info in the OP. I know this is using a different driver? I thinks?
Please post details here. Thanks!!
I started to worry because my package isn’t moving since Dec 30 2015.
I hope it will arrive anytime soon.
update jan 20
the boat is moving now, yay!
Hi,
It was reported that using 10440 might change the driver to a direct drive, it won't go back to normal AAA again.
Is it still possible to get in on one of these lights?
If so, could you pm me the price please? Thank you they are awesome…!
I am really looking forward, never used PayPal to send but geez it’s flawlessly easy.
Thank you for your extremely quick reply, greatly appreciated…!
One of the improved (IMO) features of the Reylight coppper Tool compared to the stock Lumintop version is the lowered low. I did a runtime test to see how long it lasts. I used a Duracel alkaline AAA for that ('Duralock'), but all alkalines should do about the same.
It starts with a useful 1.68 lumen, which is high for a real 'moonlight'. I stopped at 10% of the start output, 0.16 lumen, a true moonlight which is still a useful output: it is good for finding your way in a bedroom without waking someone up, and it still allows you to follow a track in the woods. The battery measured 0.96V resting voltage by then, and on my simple battery tester it measured 'replace'. It took almost four days to get there, which I find a nice period. Strangely, although the light was still on after four days, after switching it off it would not come on again (a new battery worked fine). Perhaps the MCU wants a minimum voltage to start, but while running, it does not switch off with a too low voltage?
Great runtime test! Thank you for sharing. I do love this little light. I think I remember reading earlier in this process where Rey wanted to get a true moonlight out of it but it just wasn’t possible. This was the lowest they were able to do, and it is much better than the stock.
I’m glad someone else noticed this cause I thought I was crazy. I’ve definitely seen similar behavior out of mine. Its working one minute, the I turn it off and it just won’t come back on. First time it happened I thought it had died 
Luckily a new cell fixed it right up.
I will try to find out at which state of an alkaline the light will not start, for now I assume that that will only be with an almost dead battery.
Just for clarity’s sake, this happened with me on NiMH. I’ve got a house full of eneloops; no alkalines here. Shouldn’t matter though I guess - voltage is voltage.
I agree if it is interpreted as: voltage under load is voltage under load. Hmm, no, could be a bit more complicated, perhaps it actually is the resting voltage that is the trigger to get the driver going...
I'm testing a partly drained AAA-alkaline right now, first number: resting voltage 1.34V, output 0.91 lumen (consistent with 24 hour runtime), the light switches on alright.
edit: next number, resting voltage (10 minutes rest) 1.12V, output 0.58 lumen (consistent with ~60 hour runtime), the light switches on alright.
edit 2: I tried to find the drain level where the light does keeps on working when it has been on, and does not switch on once switched off. It seems that right around 1.0V the light refuses to light up on low, wether you come from switch off, or from the high setting (a mode switch also powers the light off for a moment of course). The fun came when the light had a close to drained alkaline battery. On high setting the voltage drops under 1.0V, so when switched to low the light went out. But with the flashlight in low mode but with the led off, the battery recovered and a few seconds later the low mode started working and stayed on. This could be repeated: switched to high for 10 seconds, change to low, no light, and after some seconds *magic* low started working again.
I let the battery recover as well as possible (flashlight on low setting for 20 minutes) and measured the light: 0.53 lumen. So this failure to switch on starts at about 65 hours in the above runtime graph, which is -roughly estimated- the last 10% of the battery's energy. So it is a pity that this light is not able to light until full drain of the cell (unless you do not switch the light off in between), but I do not see this as a major problem. Also NiMh batteries stay well above 1.0V at all currents up to even much less than 10% energy level.
I do not know of course if other copies of this light stop switching on at a higher voltage as mine.
edit 3: a simple test if it is the mode control chip that is not switching on: with the almost drained battery, and the flashlight on high, I half-pressed the switch three times. The led went out and came on 15 seconds later, as expected. But if the chip has functioned all the time, it would have come on in high setting (three half presses from high =high), instead it came on in low, indicating that the chip started from off again.
Would it be possible to get this driver as a 15mm board?
You could use it floating above a 15mm contact board, the heat produced by this little driver is not that much.
Paypal sent for 2 drivers. Thanks Rey!
Yep. That’s exactly what I did.