17mm & 20/26/27mm single-sided DD/FET driver release: A17DD-SO8 / A20DD-SO8 / etc

With the 7135’s, you could stack to control what was fed to the LED, be it a pocket rocket, or an EDC.
Am I reading right, that this driver does not have the capability to control the input?

You appear to have multiple blank lines as your signature. Either that or it’s a picture of a snowman in a blizzard.

You do! :D

It's a 1 x 1 pixel gif stretched out to 600 x 185 pixels.

Here it is highlighted in blue:

I use this exactly this for D1.
If you can not buy from this source search for “RoHm 0.5A/20V Schottky SOD-323, RB551V-30 TE17” on eBay or Aliexpress.

For C1 I use a 10uF cap size 0805.

I would recommend to first try to build a single cell verson of this driver and than modify another for two cells. Firmware can be a little tricky for two cell drivers.

Another option I use in most of my single cell lights is this FET+1 driver. It is more efficent in the low modes and you can use the awesome blf-a6 firmware from toykeeper ~toykeeper/flashlight-firmware/trunk : files for revision 250

:smiley:

Somehow I didn’t think to right click his sig or click drag to highlight. Just presumed some blank lines got left in there on accident.

I have some SD103AWS SOD-323 diodes from another project but i’m going to order these you mentioned .
Just ordered also all the other components including pcb …

Two scenarios, both hilarious:

If borked has that signature on accident, how the heck did that happen?

If it's on purpose, why? :bigsmile:

Correct. It is for maximum output that is only limited by battery selection and quality of components. If you do not have at least one light with one of these you should try it. The biggest drawback is as the cell fades so does the output whereas the 7135 drivers did not do that until they fell below voltage. Both drivers have their place but for sheer max lumens the new DD drivers cannot be beat

Well, this is good timing. I took a little time off to pursue other things, and not only is there a plethora of new hardware and firmware out there (the 1K limit has finally been breached!), but Wight is back. Welcome back, and THANK YOU for putting us down a fresh path in driver land.

All is right with the world.

PS Ordering Attiny 25s and 85s and can’t wait to see what I can cram in them.

I have another silly question….
Is there any ready-to-flash firmware available in this forum after i build this driver (for attiny13a) ? in about 2 weeks i’ll have all the components needed , so it’s time to search for a good firmware.

For an FET only driver I would start with STAR firmware or one of ToyKeeper's firmwares. You can find them all in ToyKeeper's Repository under JonnyC and ToyKeeper. For ToyKeeper I would start with starry-offtime and with STAR I would start with STAR_off_time. ToyKeeper's BLF A6 is also an excellent firmware, but it is geared towards FET+7135, and while you can convert it to use with FET only I would try some of the others first.

Thanks for your help , as you said i will start using these until i learn to modify them to have the “perfect modes” .

V.44 FTW

Let the crafting begins

Who’s in da haus???

Wight in da haus!


(hip hop hooray, in a flashaholic way)

I need your help 0:)
Can i do a zener mod on the driver , so i can use it with mt-g2 ?
can someone describe what diode to take , and if i need to remove something else ?
i have pcbs v044

You certainly can do that. You need several components, in two groups:

* The first part is making the driver survive at all. This requires a Zener and a limit resistor. Here are parts you can use (as per Matthaus here).

- DIODE ZENER 4.3V 300MW SOD323 / NXP Semiconductors BZX384-B4V3,115

Again: recalibrate the LVC I think. ToyKeeper provides a test firmware for doing just that!

:smiley:

Now someone bring back comfychair and foy andalltheothersIadmirefortheircontributionsbuthaven’tactuallycommunicatedwithbecauseIcametoolatetotheparty.

FWIW, RMM posted a spreadsheet you can use to experiment with resistor values, with an approximation of how those should appear to the MCU:

So, for example, if you wanted a 3S light… tell it to estimate the values for 3*2.5V and 3*4.4V (7.5V and 13.2V) and adjust the resistors until they produce useful values. You probably want the results to be between 32 at 224, spread across a fairly wide range.

I don’t really know what I’m doing, but I gave it 48000 and 3300 and it produced 3S values from 111 to 196.

ToyKeeper, what was your conclusion on the effect of tweaking R1/R2 values (RE: offtime)?

I think the OTC decay is affected by far more than just the values of R1 and R2.

However, I’m still a clueless noob about circuit designs… so I’m not sure how to control the decay curve.