as for brinkmann they are done.
all the flashlights were imports anyway and the same items are sold under many names as we have seen.
i have seen a decline in the build quality of the defiant/husky lines too.a neighbor recently got a 3c that i would class as flimsy.but these would be made from foil if they could get away with it at this price point.the bean counters have had their way here.the 3c at the shop that is several years old weighs 3 times this new one.
Just to reconfirm, can someone please double check to see if the 5C Defiant battery tube or other parts will lego with the a DST? Id like to mount a 5C tube on the DST head for 4 cell lithium to power an XHP35 HI.
oddly this is the only Defiant version i don’t have to test that.
Me too… 
Hopefully someone else can check for us.
I have both, but I can’t get just the battery tube off the 5C. It’s glued on pretty good. I will try with a little coaxing tomorrow.
Im surprised its glued. Thanks for trying. If you dont have strap wrenches, you can wrap rubberized materials around the light, then wrap a towel around that and twist while wearing gloves. Good luck.
FP, I have both and I PROMISE I will get the 5C apart and let you know.
In the past I have tried with the strap wrenches and failed… But those strap wrenches came from HF……….
Thanks dchomak. It will be much appreciated. Fingers crossed that the threads are the same.
Ive destroyed several sets of HF strap wrenches until I finally bought decent set. Have you tried the BOA strap wrench’s?
IIRC isn’t putting the light in a plastic bag and dumping it in some boiling water a thing for loosening threadlock/glue? Clearly you’d need a good bit of boiling water for a light of this size.
I’m not sure whether the technique is plastic safe, but it’s bound to be better than baking. I think it should also avoid the color shift seen with baking. Maybe someone else can speak with more authority.
Ive tried the boiling/freezing trick several times without success. It depends on the glue, but most quality thread lockers require 550F or above to force them to release, which can sometimes require both a blow torch and a serious amount of torque. Depending on how the heat is applied, it is possible to be done without melting a plastic reflector, but it is certainly put at risk in doing so.
Well I just tried a propane torch and a leather lined vise with pipe jaw inserts. Still no success.
I have tried now off and on for 2 years on this light and never have been able to free it up.
Last resort?
Even if I successfully protect the finish, I risk crushing the tube this way. I know I have crushed plumbing pipes with pipe wrenches
BTW, in post #29 of this thread, scaru claimed there were no threads in common between the 5C and the DST. HERE
I did see that post, but becasue it was vague I wanted someone else to try again. You’re right about crushing thin tubes with pipe wrenches. Ive kinked several in the past. Thanks for trying so hard. I might need to come up with an alternative or move on to something else.
else it would’ve been included. 
The 5C wasn’t Lego-friendly at all back in the day. Had it mated with a DST I could’ve had a ’gasm. lol
Personally and not trying to be biased I think my Legoing thread should be bookmarked. Really a classic. 
Notta
A quick look at their site says that 550 degrees F will break it down, 250 will reduce it to half strength as long as that temp is maintained; it goes back to full strength once cooled. Methylene Chloride will work given time but of course it’s not good for plastics; even the fumes may be enough to destroy that. They haven’t tried Nitromethane but you get the same problem. It is a urethane compound if that helps you find a chemical solution.
Has anyone tried using an ultrasonic water bath for this? I know that it works excellently to disassemble things safely where dissimilar metal corrosion caused all other methods tried to fail. And it doesn’t damage plastics or rubber. It might work, it might not- I don’t have the equipment to try.
Phil
I own a commercial duty, high powered, heated bath, ultrasound. Only the exposed surfaces of a submerged part are treated.
Thanks for your reply! :bigsmile: I thought I had read this somewhere but couldnt find it again. Is there enough material on either the DST head or 5C tube (or both) that could be removed (turned in a lathe) for a press fit? If not, what about removing the threads from both and turning a press fit adapter?
Im at least a week away from going to HD, but it looks like I need to grab a 5C if I can find one.
Have you tried it with a light? I came across this when someone I know wanted to restore a motorcycle carb- a rare English AMAL which has some really soft metal in the body that gets brittle with heat and time. They’re known for metal parts seizing into the body to the point that moderate wrench pressure will often break the body. Having tried new carb dip, MEK, heat both local and total he was about to try more brute force when he thought about somehow cleaning it more before trying that. He saw his ultrasonic bath and figured what the heck. Left it going overnight and late the next morning when he checked it had disassembled itself completely. His best guess is that the different mass of each part resonated differently inducing enough difference in vibration to unscrew everything. He’s repeated it numerous times and said it’s now his favorite technique for taking carbs apart. Dip ’em, then into the ultrasonic bath- and usually almost everything is in pieces by morning without anything getting buggered up in the process.
His is also an industrial machine. I don’t know the settings he used, I guess wide-open and high. My own experience with these carbs without that is about 50% chance of major body breakage or distortion so I always left the pieces I couldn’t shift in place and did the best I could that way. Stranger things have happened before so if he’s right about the different resonances it might work which is why I posed the question. If you’ve got something to test it on could you give it a try for us when you have time?
Phil
Im glad your friend found success. My guess is that it was probably the combination of several factors, combined with repeated attempts that weakened the bond and allowed its disassembly. I used to be a VP/production manager/partner for a large high tech metal finishing company in which I established ISO production standards certifications. Ive long considered using the power of resonance frequencies to separate stubborn parts, but in practice have never seen it successfully accomplished. That would be through my experience of treating tens of thousands of parts. Im not saying it cant be done. Its that Ive never witnessed it or heard of it being applied as such a technique in the industry. What I have seen are non ferrous metals left in an ultrasonic cleaner too long and having large pieces of metal dissolve and become pitted, thus effectively ruining the part. There are of course many variables which exceed the scope of this thread.
Luckily, Ive only had one flashlight that seriously challenged me to the point of risking total destruction or success. My mega-thread-locked Crelant 7G9. Since I couldnt heat it in an over for 4 hours at 550-650 F to carbonize the adhesive without destroying the light, it took repeated heat cycles with a blow torch (probably 10 or more) until the thread locker was smoking, then applying enormous amounts of torque with large strap wrenches while the part was still hot. In the end, it took incredible force until the last thread was turned. I couldn’t believe the fight that ensued!
I have used MEK, Barrymans industrial line of submersion carb cleaner as an ultrasonic bath, acetone, xylene, about every stoddard solvent variant, avgas, CAM2, ethylene, industrial grade aircraft paint stripper and many others. Regardless of which solvent is being used to try and dissolve a glue or thread locking adhesive applied to a tightly threaded part, I have never seen solvent penetration past the 3rd thread, and often only to the 1st thread. IMO, it simply doesnt work becasue it cant penetrate the threads, but your mileage may vary.
Confucius say: “What may work for one part might not for another.” 
I should also mention that I restore antique pressurized liquid fuel lanterns, which is why Ive spent so much time disassembling and refurbishing stubborn-locked parts. They are always a pain!