D.I.Y. Illuminated tailcap

Well the issue is definitely that the capacitor is being inconsistent. Maybe it’s just a damaged cap, or maybe it does need a different value. I’m not sure, I’ve never had issues persist this long.

I've been using 3 different drivers, one just went to a friend with an s2+. Without the bleeder resistors everything is kosher. I am getting parts for more drivers in the next day or two so I'll swap drivers with different value capacitors when I get a chance. These drivers don't look fresh and clean anymore after all the flux I've used so they need cycled out anyway lol

So, I pulled the bleeder resistors off the drivers and I'm still getting a parasitic drain. Has to be a bad component on the drivers. They weren't doing this before so I wonder if something in the lighted tailcaps caused the failure?

How much parasitic drain? The lvp circuit lets some current through, but normally the tail switch stops that when the light is off. Since we essentially bypassed the tail switch with the LTC, it allows the lvp voltage divider to drain some.

I have had issues with the Convoy S2 triple that I built. If I run it on high for very long and then shift modes, I do not always get the mode I want. Sometimes it is back to ML or further back to battery check. I am pretty sure it is a heat issue, if I avoid the top 2 modes things stay good and a couple minute cooldown brings back normal function. Bear in mind, this is a triple on solid copper with a FET+1 running BLF A6, a lighted tailcap battery + contact is a copper disk and tailcap spring is bypassed. I run it with a 30q, so the power is flowing freely! Draws about 5.2 amps at start on high!

It serves duty as my nightstand light and an occasional holy crap light when someone wants to see one.

Alright, this version is a little different. This time the led’s (4 of them) will be mounted on a ring that’s designed to replace the clear/translucent washers we have been making. You should still be able to use the older versions as the bottom pcb’s for the switch, but I also made a new main pcb with larger solder points to attach wires to connect the two boards. On my version of the bottom board the pots will be basically inaccessible once you stack the top board, but pyro’s bottom-pot board obviously won’t have that problem.

Here they are.

edit: added to OP

Can you explain a little more on these? The image on the left is a single board to mount the led’s on, and the images to the right or the opposing sides of the same board, correct?

Yes, That’s correct

I’ve put the pictures on seperate lines now.

I believe you are correct left board goes on top of switch in place of washer.

How and where did you measure? Does Nanjg105c need a bleeder? Thanks!

Very good thinking, this will get the light much more efficient in the boot cover, and solves the availabilty problem of the clear washers.

Can I request (only if you have time and feel like it) a simple version of the board where the switch is mounted:

-only suitable for the small type Omten (because of next requirement)

-solderable vias (instead of pads) for connection to the washer-board adjacent to the switch direct under the vias of the washer-board. The plus-via therefore must end on the spring-side of the board without connection to the batt-minus ring (small insulating ring around it).

-no pots, just pads for one resistor. Thusfar I only used the pot once for setting and left it alone, so a resistor will work just as well for me.

Djozz, I could modify the base board like you said with the isolated via for each of these wires to go through, or if all you want is just one resistor, I could put that resistor up on the top ring with the LEDs, then you could just connect the top ring to the bottom using the big main switch pads. Would that work just as well? That way it could easily be added to any stock switch PCB.

even better, very versatile!

(with the resistor on the top board you could even designate a separate resistor to each led individually)

no, scrap that, overkill

I do like 6 leds instead of four though...

(this is a clear sign of decadence, I admit)

edit: scrap that too, if you wish

I have an idea… But it will have to wait for tonight

I thought about six, but I figured it would make it hard to just use two on that layout. You’d have to use at least three

curious...

I think you’ll like what I have in mind, I just need to figure out the easiest way to do it

there's (ok, relatively) loads of space on the back of the top board to do some fun stuff: a KIT-light with a round-running led

I’ve got a plan and it involves thirteen 0805 sized pads

Oh my..