D.I.Y. Illuminated tailcap

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bdiddle
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Can you explain a little more on these? The image on the left is a single board to mount the led’s on, and the images to the right or the opposing sides of the same board, correct?

Newb

pilotdog68
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bdiddle wrote:
Can you explain a little more on these? The image on the left is a single board to mount the led’s on, and the images to the right or the opposing sides of the same board, correct?

Yes, That’s correct

I’ve put the pictures on seperate lines now.

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

fatboy
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bdiddle wrote:
Can you explain a little more on these? The image on the left is a single board to mount the led’s on, and the images to the right or the opposing sides of the same board, correct?

I believe you are correct left board goes on top of switch in place of washer.
nofear87
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How and where did you measure? Does Nanjg105c need a bleeder? Thanks!

pilotdog68 wrote:
Kloepper Knife Works wrote:
Blue and green appear to have similar output at the same currents. I think the forward voltage of the LED’s is to blame for the difference. Red (Vf = 1.8-2.2v) requires 3-4x the current for equivalent brightness to the LED’s with a Vf of 3-3.2v, by calibrated eyeball lumen measuring device. (aka, perceived brightness)

I’m beginning to think we are getting different numbers because your customers want them brighter than I do. This a dual green (560/2.2k) I just built today in my S6 (took a lot to fit it in an S6 btw). After the picture, I changed the resistor because it was a little brighter than I wanted.

djozz
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Very good thinking, this will get the light much more efficient in the boot cover, and solves the availabilty problem of the clear washers.

 

Can I request (only if you have time and feel like it) a simple version of the board where the switch is mounted:

-only suitable for the small type Omten (because of next requirement)

-solderable vias (instead of pads) for connection to the washer-board adjacent to the switch direct under the vias of the washer-board. The plus-via therefore must end on the spring-side of the board without connection to the batt-minus ring (small insulating ring around it).

-no pots, just pads for one resistor. Thusfar I only used the pot once for setting and left it alone, so a resistor will work just as well for me.

pilotdog68
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Djozz, I could modify the base board like you said with the isolated via for each of these wires to go through, or if all you want is just one resistor, I could put that resistor up on the top ring with the LEDs, then you could just connect the top ring to the bottom using the big main switch pads. Would that work just as well? That way it could easily be added to any stock switch PCB.

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

djozz
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pilotdog68 wrote:
Djozz, I could modify the base board like you said with the isolated via for each of these wires to go through, or if all you want is just one resistor, I could put that resistor up on the top ring with the LEDs, then you could just connect the top ring to the bottom using the big main switch pads. Would that work just as well? That way it could easily be added to any stock switch PCB.

even better, very versatile! Laughing

(with the resistor on the top board you could even designate a separate resistor to each led individually)

no, scrap that, overkill Wink

djozz
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I do like 6 leds instead of four though...

(this is a clear sign of decadence, I admit)

edit: scrap that too, if you wish Laughing

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I have an idea… But it will have to wait for tonight

I thought about six, but I figured it would make it hard to just use two on that layout. You’d have to use at least three

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

djozz
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curious...

pilotdog68
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I think you’ll like what I have in mind, I just need to figure out the easiest way to do it

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

djozz
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there's (ok, relatively) loads of space on the back of the top board to do some fun stuff: a KIT-light with a round-running led Laughing

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I’ve got a plan and it involves thirteen 0805 sized pads

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

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Oh my..

chouster
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PD is on fire!

I’m afraid to order some boards, because the next day PD will have a newer, even better version up. Big Smile

I thought a bit about the MCU-controlled tailcap, the circuit shouldn’t be that difficult. Kinda like a 105C reversed without the AMC’s. Don’t know if caps or diode are necessary, though. LEDs could be driven directly by the MCU, right? Don’t know if that fits on one single board. MAybe a smaller footprint MCU to go under the spring or so and some traces and vias to programm it in system. Man, I have to get into this Eagle stuff…

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Dude, you are on fire! Does one need to use 2 pots or just one? Are these way to bright for the bedside now, or can they be adjusted down very low?

I know, here I go again with questions…

Matt

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k

pilotdog68
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chouster wrote:
PD is on fire!

I’m afraid to order some boards, because the next day PD will have a newer, even better version up. Big Smile

I thought a bit about the MCU-controlled tailcap, the circuit shouldn’t be that difficult. Kinda like a 105C reversed without the AMC’s. Don’t know if caps or diode are necessary, though. LEDs could be driven directly by the MCU, right? Don’t know if that fits on one single board. MAybe a smaller footprint MCU to go under the spring or so and some traces and vias to programm it in system. Man, I have to get into this Eagle stuff…


I think with this stacked board we just might be able to fit an attiny up there. The rest of the circuit would be easy, but I would have no idea how to code it.

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

pilotdog68
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mattlward wrote:
Dude, you are on fire! Does one need to use 2 pots or just one? Are these way to bright for the bedside now, or can they be adjusted down very low?

I know, here I go again with questions…

Matt


You can definitely get them down low. I helped Dale with resistor values to adjust his special editions. He got them down to 0.14ma draw. I recommend the 50k pots. On my board you can use just one pot, but it’s a little useless without the mini slide switches.

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

chouster
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pilotdog68 wrote:
chouster wrote:
PD is on fire!

I’m afraid to order some boards, because the next day PD will have a newer, even better version up. Big Smile

I thought a bit about the MCU-controlled tailcap, the circuit shouldn’t be that difficult. Kinda like a 105C reversed without the AMC’s. Don’t know if caps or diode are necessary, though. LEDs could be driven directly by the MCU, right? Don’t know if that fits on one single board. MAybe a smaller footprint MCU to go under the spring or so and some traces and vias to programm it in system. Man, I have to get into this Eagle stuff…


I think with this stacked board we just might be able to fit an attiny up there. The rest of the circuit would be easy, but I would have no idea how to code it.

NICE!

But I admit, I’ve no clue how to code it, too. Something like Battcheck maybe…

As for the stacked board, you think the LEDs would go right under the boot? It’s the thing that presses the tailcap boot against the housing to make a sealing, right?

pilotdog68
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yes, this ring replaces the washer, putting pressure on the bottom of the boot to seal it up. I measured the tailcap area to make sure there were clearances for everything set up for 16mm boot. On that note, I might recommend ordering these in the normal OSH thickness, instead of the thinner type they just announced.

I’ll try to draw up a board with an attiny tonight, then we can have some leverage to convince the firmware people to write something for us Wink

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

chouster
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Thanks PD!

For 14mm boots the components might not fit under the boot?

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chouster wrote:
Thanks PD!

For 14mm boots the components might not fit under the boot?


14mm would be tight. Right now everything on that pcb is inside of a 14mm invisible circle around the center. However, 14mm is the outside diameter of those boots, so inside the button is probably more like 12mm. I could do a simple one to fit that size, but not one of the more complicated ones I’m going to work on tonight.

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

mattlward
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[/quote]
You can definitely get them down low. I helped Dale with resistor values to adjust his special editions. He got them down to 0.14ma draw. I recommend the 50k pots. On my board you can use just one pot, but it’s a little useless without the mini slide switches.[/quote]

Why is it useless without the switches? I would not mind a low draw all the time.. Has not hurt me yet.

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k

chouster
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I’m looking forward to see what you’re going to work on. I’m going outside now, walk around with some lights. Have fun!

pilotdog68
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mattlward wrote:
pilotdog68 wrote:
You can definitely get them down low. I helped Dale with resistor values to adjust his special editions. He got them down to 0.14ma draw. I recommend the 50k pots. On my board you can use just one pot, but it’s a little useless without the mini slide switches.

Why is it useless without the switches? I would not mind a low draw all the time.. Has not hurt me yet.

I meant on the Rev4 and Rev5b boards. They need the switch populated to complete the circuit and work at all. I still have lights with Rev3 boards too and they work great.

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

pilotdog68
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Rev5b Osh links have been taken down to make way for an improved (and much more complicated) version, hopefully tonight.

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

pilotdog68
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Alright, who wants to guess why there are so many pads for this one?

Or how about this one?

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

mattlward
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But, what controls it or for that matter supplies enough power to it?

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k

pilotdog68
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mattlward wrote:
But, what controls it or for that matter supplies enough power to it?

ehhh not exactly.

Btw, I had to go to 0603 pads for that top one to get it to fit inside the 14mm radius.

Guess away people, I’ll explain the top one tomorrow. The bottom one should be pretty self-explanatory

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

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I finally got mine working for the most part. It was the 100k pots. The 10k pots are working great. After the light gets heated up really good at the end of a turbo run, It will jump low-hi-low-hi-strobe-bike flasher-beacon-... But if I drop to a lower mode or shut the light off for 30-45 seconds it cools down and everything goes back to normal. I'm using 200 ohm bleeder resistors still so maybe bumping that back up to 4-600 will help? 

 

I measured parasitic drain at .06mA, then the lowest I could get the LEDs to light up the amp draw was .16mA, then with the LEDs as bright as I could get them the meter read 1.9. I set it to around a .5 mA draw and it seems about perfect. Not too bright at night and very faint in the daytime. 

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