D.I.Y. Illuminated tailcap

Djozz, I could modify the base board like you said with the isolated via for each of these wires to go through, or if all you want is just one resistor, I could put that resistor up on the top ring with the LEDs, then you could just connect the top ring to the bottom using the big main switch pads. Would that work just as well? That way it could easily be added to any stock switch PCB.

even better, very versatile!

(with the resistor on the top board you could even designate a separate resistor to each led individually)

no, scrap that, overkill

I do like 6 leds instead of four though...

(this is a clear sign of decadence, I admit)

edit: scrap that too, if you wish

I have an idea… But it will have to wait for tonight

I thought about six, but I figured it would make it hard to just use two on that layout. You’d have to use at least three

curious...

I think you’ll like what I have in mind, I just need to figure out the easiest way to do it

there's (ok, relatively) loads of space on the back of the top board to do some fun stuff: a KIT-light with a round-running led

I’ve got a plan and it involves thirteen 0805 sized pads

Oh my..

PD is on fire!

I’m afraid to order some boards, because the next day PD will have a newer, even better version up. :smiley:

I thought a bit about the MCU-controlled tailcap, the circuit shouldn’t be that difficult. Kinda like a 105C reversed without the AMC’s. Don’t know if caps or diode are necessary, though. LEDs could be driven directly by the MCU, right? Don’t know if that fits on one single board. MAybe a smaller footprint MCU to go under the spring or so and some traces and vias to programm it in system. Man, I have to get into this Eagle stuff…

Dude, you are on fire! Does one need to use 2 pots or just one? Are these way to bright for the bedside now, or can they be adjusted down very low?

I know, here I go again with questions…

Matt

I think with this stacked board we just might be able to fit an attiny up there. The rest of the circuit would be easy, but I would have no idea how to code it.

You can definitely get them down low. I helped Dale with resistor values to adjust his special editions. He got them down to 0.14ma draw. I recommend the 50k pots. On my board you can use just one pot, but it’s a little useless without the mini slide switches.

NICE!

But I admit, I’ve no clue how to code it, too. Something like Battcheck maybe…

As for the stacked board, you think the LEDs would go right under the boot? It’s the thing that presses the tailcap boot against the housing to make a sealing, right?

yes, this ring replaces the washer, putting pressure on the bottom of the boot to seal it up. I measured the tailcap area to make sure there were clearances for everything set up for 16mm boot. On that note, I might recommend ordering these in the normal OSH thickness, instead of the thinner type they just announced.

I’ll try to draw up a board with an attiny tonight, then we can have some leverage to convince the firmware people to write something for us :wink:

Thanks PD!

For 14mm boots the components might not fit under the boot?

14mm would be tight. Right now everything on that pcb is inside of a 14mm invisible circle around the center. However, 14mm is the outside diameter of those boots, so inside the button is probably more like 12mm. I could do a simple one to fit that size, but not one of the more complicated ones I’m going to work on tonight.

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You can definitely get them down low. I helped Dale with resistor values to adjust his special editions. He got them down to 0.14ma draw. I recommend the 50k pots. On my board you can use just one pot, but it’s a little useless without the mini slide switches.
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Why is it useless without the switches? I would not mind a low draw all the time… Has not hurt me yet.

I’m looking forward to see what you’re going to work on. I’m going outside now, walk around with some lights. Have fun!

I meant on the Rev4 and Rev5b boards. They need the switch populated to complete the circuit and work at all. I still have lights with Rev3 boards too and they work great.