1dash1, thanks for the update on your light, the anodizing colors can be oversprayed….
I am on a business trip and will not be able to update this thread until Friday. Anyone posting, I should have the lid updated by then. Thanks for the patience with this…
Try the old paper clip trick. Bend a paper clip around the AAA battery, clip the excess off, and fit it into the head of the flashlight. Tighten the head down with a reasonable amount of force (slightly more than simple “hand tight” force) to make contact.
If this doesn’t work the first time, take the ring out and put it back in a different position. Try this several times.
If the flashlight works, the problem isn’t short threads (as is usually the case when the spacer works).
Instead, there’s “gunk” somewhere on the plate that is blocking the contact with the battery tube when you tighten it. Not sure what the best way to clean it. Maybe you could try gluing some fine sandpaper to the end of a thick toothpick, then use it to sand the surface clean. Or maybe an emory board cut down to size might work. (Any cleaning solution would probably affect the foam cushion, so I wouldn’t try that.)
Hope this helps!
EDIT: Unless the battery tube has just been freshly sanded, be sure to clean the edge of the battery tube first, before proceeding. Use alcohol or detergent to clean the surface of any possible contaminant that may have come off the head plate.
—
Rule 1-1 as it applies to life, take it as it comes.
BG’s sale title says it is Nichia219B but detail listing is described as NICHIA 90 CRI NVSW219C-R9050-SW40 LED.
I’m confused which one is correct information.
The LED installed is a 219B. The listing is wrong on the descriptor of the 219C…
hank wrote:
how likely is the color orange looking so far?
Very, if we can get the color right of course. It is the most popular on the list and my personal request before this thread even started. With the CNY approaching, the wait will seem longer for the samples as well…
ri chevy wrote:
How about a titanium version?
I will ask, they have the timeback in titanium…
arow55 wrote:
Used the code to order a purple one. If like it enough will get in on group buy if there is time.
There will be time, just let me know… this will be after CNY and will be a stock item after the GB I hope…
Nope, as stated, we are waiting until after the Chinese New Year to find out for sure. The X5 seems popular and they made that in solid copper, so the capabilities are covered… Just have to make it worth their while on the # ordered…
I will take it no matter what you do about the keyring.
Just my opinions:
I would like the light to tailstand
I plan to grind off the keyring loop. I do not prefer a square ring hole either, it makes the light hang cockeyed. I dont plan to keychain carry, Im buying it as a nightlight, bedstand duty.
I will take it no matter what you do about the keyring.
Just my opinions:
I would like the light to tailstand
I plan to grind off the keyring loop. I do not prefer a square ring hole either, it makes the light hang cockeyed. I dont plan to keychain carry, Im buying it as a nightlight, bedstand duty.
The tailstand is a compromise, the problem being that most will have it on a keyring or lanyard attached to something. Lord knows, in my pockets I tie everything smaller than my wallet together, or it will migrate out of there. Like a bucket of crabs, things stuck together seem to stay where I put them… Still havent figured out the coins…
Tailstanding stability is a compromise with attachment points. The three point system on Fenix lights works well for tailstanding, but cants the light at an angle (cockeyed) when it is on a keychain or lanyard. The KD buckle can tailstand, but is tipsy in two directions. A wider tail attachment point makes it hard to find a decent sized Split Ring to fit… The best solution I have is a good attachment point and then drill a wooden block for something like what you want, good tailstanding ability. So that is why I picked a good attachment point.
On the copper light, the keyring will be very removable, copper is soft. You should be able to do this easily. The loop is supposed to be a D shape to it, curved like the back of the light currently is. My rendering skills suck and the KD Buckle has a square loop, but that was just to show a larger loop hole.
I still think that LED is most probably a NVSL219B-V1 R9050 sw40. That’s not the same as 219B. Someone did some very nice CRI tests… And the results do match my assumption quite accurate.
… LED is most probably a NVSL219B-V1 R9050 sw40. That’s not the same as 219B…
I dont understand enough to know the difference but fwiw, the two N219a LEDs that I had tested were both ~4400+ CCT, and ~87 CRI (one prometheus beta and one L08, both with N219a confirmed)
here is a pic of the Beta spectrum
by contrast the Astrolux A01 has a CCT of ~4000 and a CRI of 91
imo the Astrolux LED has awesome specs, better than the N219a for my taste. If we could see a picture of the LED, we can eliminate whether it is an A or a B since they look different, I think, like this:
N219a on left, N219b on right
I think the pic of the Astrolux LED above right does not look like an N219a,
my guess is the specs are correct and it is an N219b.. But Im new to all this, all I know is I really like the 91 CRI of the Astrolux.
There were some pictures of the LED, and I can say for sure it’s no 219A. The test results maukka posted are too good for a 219B R85. That results perfectly match the specs of R9050, and that was introduced with the 219B-V1. The 219B-V1 looks very similar to the 219B, but I think there are little differences. I posted them in this thread, #14 on onwards. So maybe, if we had a picture of each a 219B and a 219B-V1 that show the side of them (comment #16 in the thread I mentioned), we could maybe confirm my assumptions and we could easily differentiate 219B and 219B-V1 when they’re already reflowed.
… if we had a picture of each a 219B and a 219B-V1 that show the side of them…
thanks for the link to the photos:
neither of those view angles are available by looking at the LED in the photo I posted
in any case, can you explain what a 219B does different in terms of CCT and CRI, than a 219B-V1? Im still happy the Astrolux A01 has higher CRI than my 219A leds.
I believe the V1 has a lower vF and more efficiency at a given current due to this… I currently have given away all of my samples, but have two on order…
The V1 has lower Vf, that’s right. I stacked a 105C driver for a theoretical current of 5.08A (hooked up to a triple of V1’s) and measured exactly that, with long and thin DMM probes. Gives 1300 OTF lumen with protected cells and even 1200 lumen when cells are nearly depleted. CCT is something that’s related to the binning, 219B’s and 219B-V1’s are available in all kinds of different color bins. The 219C uses another binning system, but let’s focus on the B and B-V1. The highest spec’ed 219B in terms of CRI is R85, where 85 is the minimum CRI. R9050 spec came with the B-V1, meaning minimum CRI of 90 and minimum R9-value of 50, that’s the value that represents saturated red. So with the B-V1 R9050 color rendering should be considerably better, especially for red color tones.
I believe, from looking at the thread specs, the Astrolux A01 is simply the 4000K version of the same 219B-V1 as is in the BLF 348, which is a 5000K LED.
So if you get a BLF 348and an Astrolux A01, you can have the same emitter in 4000K and 5000K…
1dash1, thanks for the update on your light, the anodizing colors can be oversprayed….
I am on a business trip and will not be able to update this thread until Friday. Anyone posting, I should have the lid updated by then. Thanks for the patience with this…
Lithium Ion Battery Safety 101
Old Lumens Competition 2020 Modified Light Entry
I had the same issue with two Convoy S2+ hosts. Easy enough fix.
how likely is the color orange looking so far?
Put me up for 1 copper.
Try the old paper clip trick. Bend a paper clip around the AAA battery, clip the excess off, and fit it into the head of the flashlight. Tighten the head down with a reasonable amount of force (slightly more than simple “hand tight” force) to make contact.
If this doesn’t work the first time, take the ring out and put it back in a different position. Try this several times.
If the flashlight works, the problem isn’t short threads (as is usually the case when the spacer works).
Instead, there’s “gunk” somewhere on the plate that is blocking the contact with the battery tube when you tighten it. Not sure what the best way to clean it. Maybe you could try gluing some fine sandpaper to the end of a thick toothpick, then use it to sand the surface clean. Or maybe an emory board cut down to size might work. (Any cleaning solution would probably affect the foam cushion, so I wouldn’t try that.)
Hope this helps!
EDIT: Unless the battery tube has just been freshly sanded, be sure to clean the edge of the battery tube first, before proceeding. Use alcohol or detergent to clean the surface of any possible contaminant that may have come off the head plate.
Rule 1-1 as it applies to life, take it as it comes.Used the code to order a purple one. If like it enough will get in on group buy if there is time.
Thanks. Will try ASAP
Is it Nichia219C or 219B?
BG’s sale title says it is Nichia219B but detail listing is described as NICHIA 90 CRI NVSW219C-R9050-SW40 LED.
I’m confused which one is correct information.
The LED installed is a 219B. The listing is wrong on the descriptor of the 219C…
Very, if we can get the color right of course. It is the most popular on the list and my personal request before this thread even started. With the CNY approaching, the wait will seem longer for the samples as well…
I will ask, they have the timeback in titanium…
There will be time, just let me know… this will be after CNY and will be a stock item after the GB I hope…
Lithium Ion Battery Safety 101
Old Lumens Competition 2020 Modified Light Entry
Put me down for 1 copper please.
Recent Reviews: Light Flashlight Painting Buying Guide 2020 // LumeCube 2.0 // Lumintop FW1A // Light Painting Paradise Lightpainter // KDLITKER E6 // Sofirn SP31V2.0 // Convoy S2+
Affiliate links: Neal's Gadgets
Instagram: @stephenk_lightart
2 ORANGE for me please
1x copper thanks!
Add a second copper one for me, please.
Sign me up for 1 copper and 1 orange aluminium. Thanks!
one blue, one orange please
Any updates on the copper?
Nope, as stated, we are waiting until after the Chinese New Year to find out for sure. The X5 seems popular and they made that in solid copper, so the capabilities are covered… Just have to make it worth their while on the # ordered…
Lithium Ion Battery Safety 101
Old Lumens Competition 2020 Modified Light Entry
I would like
1 Copper
I will take it no matter what you do about the keyring.
Just my opinions:
I would like the light to tailstand
I plan to grind off the keyring loop. I do not prefer a square ring hole either, it makes the light hang cockeyed. I dont plan to keychain carry, Im buying it as a nightlight, bedstand duty.
The tailstand is a compromise, the problem being that most will have it on a keyring or lanyard attached to something. Lord knows, in my pockets I tie everything smaller than my wallet together, or it will migrate out of there. Like a bucket of crabs, things stuck together seem to stay where I put them… Still havent figured out the coins…
Tailstanding stability is a compromise with attachment points. The three point system on Fenix lights works well for tailstanding, but cants the light at an angle (cockeyed) when it is on a keychain or lanyard. The KD buckle can tailstand, but is tipsy in two directions. A wider tail attachment point makes it hard to find a decent sized Split Ring to fit… The best solution I have is a good attachment point and then drill a wooden block for something like what you want, good tailstanding ability. So that is why I picked a good attachment point.
On the copper light, the keyring will be very removable, copper is soft. You should be able to do this easily. The loop is supposed to be a D shape to it, curved like the back of the light currently is. My rendering skills suck and the KD Buckle has a square loop, but that was just to show a larger loop hole.
Lithium Ion Battery Safety 101
Old Lumens Competition 2020 Modified Light Entry
I still think that LED is most probably a NVSL219B-V1 R9050 sw40. That’s not the same as 219B. Someone did some very nice CRI tests… And the results do match my assumption quite accurate.
I would like:
1x Copper
1x Orange
Please add me for 1x Copper please.
Thanks!
May the Light illumine you
I dont understand enough to know the difference but fwiw, the two N219a LEDs that I had tested were both ~4400+ CCT, and ~87 CRI (one prometheus beta and one L08, both with N219a confirmed)
here is a pic of the Beta spectrum
by contrast the Astrolux A01 has a CCT of ~4000 and a CRI of 91
imo the Astrolux LED has awesome specs, better than the N219a for my taste. If we could see a picture of the LED, we can eliminate whether it is an A or a B since they look different, I think, like this:
N219a on left, N219b on right
I think the pic of the Astrolux LED above right does not look like an N219a,
my guess is the specs are correct and it is an N219b.. But Im new to all this, all I know is I really like the 91 CRI of the Astrolux.
There were some pictures of the LED, and I can say for sure it’s no 219A. The test results maukka posted are too good for a 219B R85. That results perfectly match the specs of R9050, and that was introduced with the 219B-V1. The 219B-V1 looks very similar to the 219B, but I think there are little differences. I posted them in this thread, #14 on onwards. So maybe, if we had a picture of each a 219B and a 219B-V1 that show the side of them (comment #16 in the thread I mentioned), we could maybe confirm my assumptions and we could easily differentiate 219B and 219B-V1 when they’re already reflowed.
thanks for the link to the photos:
neither of those view angles are available by looking at the LED in the photo I posted
in any case, can you explain what a 219B does different in terms of CCT and CRI, than a 219B-V1? Im still happy the Astrolux A01 has higher CRI than my 219A leds.
I believe the V1 has a lower vF and more efficiency at a given current due to this… I currently have given away all of my samples, but have two on order…
Lithium Ion Battery Safety 101
Old Lumens Competition 2020 Modified Light Entry
add me to the list for copper x1
thanks,
M
The V1 has lower Vf, that’s right. I stacked a 105C driver for a theoretical current of 5.08A (hooked up to a triple of V1’s) and measured exactly that, with long and thin DMM probes. Gives 1300 OTF lumen with protected cells and even 1200 lumen when cells are nearly depleted. CCT is something that’s related to the binning, 219B’s and 219B-V1’s are available in all kinds of different color bins. The 219C uses another binning system, but let’s focus on the B and B-V1. The highest spec’ed 219B in terms of CRI is R85, where 85 is the minimum CRI. R9050 spec came with the B-V1, meaning minimum CRI of 90 and minimum R9-value of 50, that’s the value that represents saturated red. So with the B-V1 R9050 color rendering should be considerably better, especially for red color tones.
I believe, from looking at the thread specs, the Astrolux A01 is simply the 4000K version of the same 219B-V1 as is in the BLF 348, which is a 5000K LED.
So if you get a BLF 348 and an Astrolux A01, you can have the same emitter in 4000K and 5000K…
Lithium Ion Battery Safety 101
Old Lumens Competition 2020 Modified Light Entry
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