So, I replaced the XP-E emitter in my giveaway Rayvenge headlamp over the weekend with a high-CRI Nichia 219b:
Other than the great tint (which actually wasnāt too bad on the original emitter)
This completely does away with the annoying horrible/messy/donut-shaped hotspot of the original emitter! Now, the beam is smooth and much more useful! It may have been that I just got lucky with a slightly-different spacing, but itās much nicer now. Unfortunately, thereās an occasional flicker due to the small diameter wire used on the LED leads getting kinked, but I can fix that easily enoughā¦
A while back I got ahold of a stock Uniquefire UF-2200. Basic 26650 light with XM-L and an ok driver. I felt it had more potential, so off I went to collect parts. Replace LED with XM-L2 2C on Noctigon, replaced switch with Omten, replaced driver with freshly build MTN 17DDm, braided the tailcap spring and refit the plunger, braided the driver spring and put her back together! Much better now, but my meter only showed me 3.55 amps with a good battery???
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So, today I set off to build some decent leads for my meter. My 12awg silicone wire came in yesterday and I already had banana plugs. This was to much metal for a small tipped soldering iron, out came the butane micro torch! I love to solder with a torch, very energizing!
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Now I see that she pulls 4.92 amps! No wonder it is so bright. BTW, this was with one of Richardās SupFire 26605ās!
A bit late getting this done, but I finally didā¦ Not much of a mod eitherā¦
My GearBest Camo SK68 got a much needed modā¦ I used the pencil-trick to remove the last mode memory; now the light always starts on high (which is still fairly low). I also replaced the factory LB ultra-blue cool white XP-E clone with a true XP-E2 from my parts box. Much better tint nowā¦
Got a Convoy branded bare bones model of the Rocher F6 a couple weeks back. Ordered a 3 pack of Ferrero-Rocher driver boards from Oshpark and put it all together this evening. The switch was a bit tricky as the prongs from the original switch are too close together to fit into the Ferrero-Rocher holes. Some bending and soldering fixed that. I put the original XM-L2 on a noctigon, the tint was pretty good for a CW.
I upgraded to 22 AWG wire, making it impossible to put the driver in via the twisted wire method but shorter wires are better anyway. The driver was flashed with Toykeeper's excellent ramping firmware. That firmware is so awesome I've been tearing apart lights and converting to momentary switches just to use it. I've got three mags and two side switch lights converted so far. Anyway, nice light now, pulls about 4A on a samsung 26f laptop pull and 4.8A on an efest 35A.
UltraFire C2 that i got around 12 years ago
Didnt even know what light mod is till i found this website not long ago , thats why it took so long to make C2 rock
Anyway i replaced original driver with XR-E in it with 7135*8 3.04A driving XM-L2 U3 2C , and damn
It gets warm on high but not crazy hot and its crazy bright
My 1st mod ever btw
I modded in a new switch in my Balder SE1 to replace the one I blew. Itās a totally different type of setup, so I had to do the modding mambo. Soldered copper braid onto the PCB to make contact with the un-anodized threads.
Shoved her in nice and tight. The braid seems to be making good contact
Cranked down the stock nylon retaining ring. Thatāll squish the copper braid into the threads bice and securely
There you go. Looks good when itās all covered up, and works great. Way better than the original that I think was really meant for AAA lights.
Today i have modded a trustfire 3t6, i changed leds from 3x xm-l to 3x dual nichia 219A.
A bit too much work in the end Iād say, since it ended up having a donut hotspot :~
I had hoped that somehow the 3 reflectors would help against that
You really shouldnāt be getting a donut. I think if you try getting the reflector lower, or the emitters higher. Thin centering discs or paper gasket. Maybe sand down the centering rings you have. Did this light always have a donut?
Made a Convoy C8 with dual channel 105C-based driver running bistro, 10x AMC7135 + 1x AMC7135, and XP-L HI V2 3D. Played around with it for a short while, didnāt like beam that much. Would have done further adjustments, but than I saw a big black spot on the DIE. Bummer. Hadnāt had that happen until now. What could cause such a failure? The LED was bought already mounted on 20mm noctigon from IOS. Normally I reflow them myselfā¦
Usually it means there was something on the dome/flat part like dirt or something that burned a hole in that spot. Probably not anything to do with a reflow.
Have you heard about baking LEDs before reflow? Cree and Nichia recommend that if the LEDs were stored in a too humid environment or if you assume they couldāve beenā¦ Otherwise they can get destroyed during reflow process. Not saying thatās the case hereā¦
Just thought I would share todays project
fitted triple xpg2 and narrow optic with a 18500
using a 18350 tube,its a little rough.
soldered the 3 parts together
used a blf driver without spring,tailcap bypass, slides together metal ring holds it in and supplies good earth
with the centre tube