Awesome. I’ve got some projects which needed thinner boards… I wonder how thin Oshpark can go now. (the CNQG brass AA light has a very thin driver that I want to replace)
D’oh. I missed the thread for a few weeks and now the boots are all sold out. Most of my boots are 14mm though, so I suppose I can deal with no glow (or green glow) on a few 16mm lights.
That looks like a very nice design. Very easy to tweak to exactly the right level.
It’s definitely not plug-and-play, but at least it’s possible to measure the OTC and tweak the firmware accordingly. That option is only available for firmwares which include source code, though, so it’ll probably be trickier to get guppydrv to work.
I have had issues with the Convoy S2 triple that I built. If I run it on high for very long and then shift modes, I do not always get the mode I want. Sometimes it is back to ML or further back to battery check. I am pretty sure it is a heat issue, … this is a triple on solid copper with a FET+1 running BLF A6
It’s quite likely a heat issue as you said. Especially if the driver was one of Manker’s blf-a6 drivers or otherwise didn’t use nice X7R capacitors. You may be able to at least work around it a little by tapping extra fast when it’s hot… or by upgrading the driver hardware. I haven’t seen nearly as much heat sensitivity on RMM’s drivers.
I could put that resistor up on the top ring with the LEDs, then you could just connect the top ring to the bottom using the big main switch pads. Would that work just as well? That way it could easily be added to any stock switch PCB.
Oh wow. That’s an interesting idea. I suppose you’d have to put the LEDs as close to the inner edge as possible though, to allow the waterproof seal to stay intact. The boot really needs flat surfaces on both sides. The 14mm boot I measured has only about 11mm as its inner diameter. Maybe 11.5mm. It seems pretty tight, but I’d definitely be interested in one which might fit.
The switches I checked appear to need a 7mm hole. So, that only leaves 2mm on either side between the hole and the inside of the boot.
If the attiny works, I’d imagine it probably needs to check voltage, blink appropriately, then go to sleep with a watchdog running. Repeat forever. Something like that, anyway. And pay extra care to go into the lowest-power mode possible.
BTW, on an earlier project, I discovered that the attiny can provide a high and a low power level on its output pins, and it can do this even while it’s asleep. So, it could potentially have a very dim steady glow which blinks brighter periodically. This is how the Ferrero Rocher driver works. IIRC, I measured it at 0.33mA while fully asleep or 0.36mA with the low glow, and it might be able to go lower. IIRC the high glow was more like 1.23mA.