Serious problem with XML2 current. Is this happening to you???

Usualy 4.7- 5amps, FET+1 driver from BG isnt a good option though, it has tons of issues: the best battery for a DD fet driver atm is Sонъ VTC5A or if you want best runtimes Samsung 30Q

What´s the issues with the Bangood fet +1 driver?
Anyone know a better springs (Beryllium copper) or similar for flashlight that will be better than the stocks (convoy m1 and BLF A6 Fet + 1 driver) ?

Thanks in advance.

Alberto.

Djozz did some interesting work re. springs here:

I use the Fasttech ‘carobronze’ springs to avoid the need for a wire bypass.
Not the best, but much better than steel springs and does not heat up at moderate-high currents.

https://www.fasttech.com/product/1347100-batterydriver-contact-support-spring-for-flashligh

Big issue with the A6 drivers is probably the off-time cap and related firmware. The short/medium/long press duration all gets stretched as driver board heats up. Build quality may also not be consistent. I tried a few and they are OK, but this is with my own firmware and not using the OTC. One pleasant surprise was that the stock wires are silicone-insulated and the spring is non-magnetic (so not steel).
Anyone knows what metal is used for the springs on these drivers?

I believe what Mitko is talking about is high resistance and low amps, compared to other DD FET drivers.

Not only that TOm, i got 3 of those drivers, they lose modes on a random base, they have a moon mode issues that i mentioned early in the BLF A6 topic yet since i do respect TK efforts and the others that worked hard about A6 project i only mentioned it, and yes, they have kinda high resistance too

WHy the hell they changed the design i dont know…whatever

Any reliable source of U4 1A? I have never tested that emitter though

I got U4 1A's from Cutter - blew out the first one in the BOSS1 (believe the bind wires failed) when running off of 4 EFEST 4200's, it survived on one EFEST 4200. I got two left of the U4 1A's - not many, haven't tested.

For the BLF A6 drivers, I'd think the FTE is suspect, and definitely the caps must be high quality and think they skimped on costs with them.

Interesting Mitko, TomE.

Probably I got lucky, 5+ A on an XP-L HI V3 without much effort. The MCU seems stable as well (not using the stock firmware).
But I suspect the assembly quality of the A6 drivers vary wildly.

As much as I hate to skew off topic I will have to chime in on the BG FET drivers as well.

I really thought this was going to be what we had all been waiting for. A ready made mosfet driver. Not so much. Certainly better than anything that was available before, but I too noticed the higher resistance vs ones made using OSH park boards and BLF suggested components. In a setup that would typically draw around 3.2A I got only 2.6 ish IIRC.

I have not even tried them with the stock firmware (not why I bought them). The only UI issue I have had that I know of after flashing with a version of star firmware was a very long amount of time it takes for the memory function to take hold. Like 10-15 seconds.

Using said firmware the moonlight and other low modes run through the 7135 were great. All in all still a good driver, just not nearly the ready made unicorn we have all been dreaming of.

OSH is now offering 2oz traces and I will have those in hand in a few days, if all goes well asflashlights will be selling mosfet drivers by next week :)

My a6 FET driver is working fine. All the funtions working well and no issues so far. Maybe is the lastest bach? cause i buy a month and a half ago.

BTW mythe driver that i received have great silicone wires and the negative contact ( for driver ring) its bigger that the bangood photos.

Thanks to all.

Alberto.

I wish I had heard about these A6 driver issues beforehand as I have 15 of them in the mail.

You and me both.

Funny, I held off buying them but finally just ordered 2 this past week, just to have some spares around. Forgot bout some of the issues, specially with the caps. It might be a crap shoot - the resistance won't be noticeable by many, but think the caps have been both good and bad.

Can the capacitors be swapped out?

Sure, I've replaced then before - pretty simple. Think you should first try out the drivers though to see if it has the mode switching problems. My two BLF A6's I believe switch modes fwd/back pretty good - didn't have problems like many described. Lot of reports they worked fine as well.

Back in the XR-E days, flat regulation was something people looked for, there were drivers which would initially regulate and then go into boost mode. The driver I put into my SmartFire V-68C pulls 2A out of the battery whether it’s at 3.0v or 4.2v, I’ve got no idea what it’s efficiency is like but I’d expect 2A to kill an XR-E so I don’t think it will be wonderful.

Question: I cooked a BLF 17 DD FET driver (original double sided version) by soldering the zener on backwards (also used an R100 resistor instead of R200) and running it at 8V. Can this be rehabilitated? Is it the MCU that got cooked, and could I swap a new one in from a q-lite?

Today killed a dedomed XP-G2 S4 2B from IntO, a dedomed XM-L2 U3 0R from Kaidomain and previously a U4 1C. Next tried XP-L V6 1D from IntO dome intact survived the HX –1175B1 running on 4 Tenergy D cell NiMH hot of the charger. Tail cap reading was close to 6A. This is in a Maglite 4D voltage @ cells 4.8V+ with my machined custom head with a SR90 reflector and UCLp lens. Would really like to run a dedomed emitter but as-is handily spanks my Y3 U4 1C dedomed resistor modded light and Sniper M24 BLF edition.

I'm not sure I understand the Maglite/SR90 custom light setup (never modded a Maglite myself), but if the 6A tail means about 6A to the LED, and you measured on a DMM and not a clamp meter, then it makes sense you killed/popped those other LED's. 6A on a DMM could mean 6.5A actual (clamp meter), and that's way too high to expect a U3, U4 or XP-G2 S4 to survive at.

Hi, i just buy this springs for change the stocks springs in my moded m1.

You think that this springs are better than the original a6 driver spring?
and for the original tail convoy m1 spring?

Thanks.

Alberto.

For sure the Fasttech 'carobronze' spring has lower electrical resistance than the stock Convoy steel springs. They are not better than the spring on the Banggood A6 driver that I tested. Not sure how either compares mechanically.

Both will not heat up below 7-8 A, but a wire bypass is still a good improvement on both if you are chasing amps.

I did some measurements at 5 A over the weekend. My numbers are slightly higher than djozz, but I did not solder to the springs and I measured spring tip-to-tip. The M1 should come with the same springs as the S2/S2+: