What did you mod today?

I modded in a new switch in my Balder SE1 to replace the one I blew. It’s a totally different type of setup, so I had to do the modding mambo. Soldered copper braid onto the PCB to make contact with the un-anodized threads.

Shoved her in nice and tight. The braid seems to be making good contact


Cranked down the stock nylon retaining ring. That’ll squish the copper braid into the threads bice and securely

There you go. Looks good when it’s all covered up, and works great. Way better than the original that I think was really meant for AAA lights.

Today i have modded a trustfire 3t6, i changed leds from 3x xm-l to 3x dual nichia 219A.
A bit too much work in the end I’d say, since it ended up having a donut hotspot :~
I had hoped that somehow the 3 reflectors would help against that

You really shouldn’t be getting a donut. I think if you try getting the reflector lower, or the emitters higher. Thin centering discs or paper gasket. Maybe sand down the centering rings you have. Did this light always have a donut?

It sounds like he put two nichias in each reflector, and that’s what’s giving the donut

It tried that once with a c8 and XP-G2… Big fail

Made a Convoy C8 with dual channel 105C-based driver running bistro, 10x AMC7135 + 1x AMC7135, and XP-L HI V2 3D. Played around with it for a short while, didn’t like beam that much. Would have done further adjustments, but than I saw a big black spot on the DIE. Bummer. Hadn’t had that happen until now. What could cause such a failure? The LED was bought already mounted on 20mm noctigon from IOS. Normally I reflow them myself…

Usually it means there was something on the dome/flat part like dirt or something that burned a hole in that spot. Probably not anything to do with a reflow.

Have you heard about baking LEDs before reflow? Cree and Nichia recommend that if the LEDs were stored in a too humid environment or if you assume they could’ve been… Otherwise they can get destroyed during reflow process. Not saying that’s the case here…

Built an EE X6 triple with a copper spacer, a fet+1, and XP-L V6 0D leds. She puts out alot of light.


Put my blf a6 back together… again…

Edit—- Trying to decide if I want to mod my M2x-ut or sell it.
Planing a C8 or M2 build

Just thought I would share todays project
fitted triple xpg2 and narrow optic with a 18500
using a 18350 tube,its a little rough.
soldered the 3 parts together

used a blf driver without spring,tailcap bypass, slides together metal ring holds it in and supplies good earth
with the centre tube

gets hot real quick ,…
,drains 8.6 amps

Nice mod. It looks like you have been to the OL or RBD school of modding.

No pictures but I stripped the driver in my brand new Archon D22, LED+ lead straight to the top of the battery spring and LED- straight to the body. Also swapped out the XM-L2 for an MT-G2 on 20mm Noctigon. First diving light and it's pumps out some light underwater.

Did some reflow tonight.

http://budgetlightforum.ddns.net/node/44796

Edit— Also set up a beam distance station in my mod room.

(actually two days ago) I put an SSL80 4000K 92CRI into a very cheap AA zoomie (from dx, FT has it too). I used a 6-chip AK-47-C1 for 2.1A current. Output is 300lm flood, 150lm spot, and I set the focus a bit above the die in the dome so that it is a smooth round spot instead of square.

The mod did not go smooth, the driver floating under the pill is not ideal during assembling, the ledboard+solder blobs were too thick so that the plastic clamping ring that pushes the board onto the pill hardly has a grip inside the pill cavity. The switch mod was not done well either, but with 2A max that it should survive.

The result is really nice though, like it a lot! :slight_smile:


Replaced the 219A in my D25A with an XPL HI V2 5B4 and added a bit of solder to the positive contact so I could use a flat top Efest 14500. Warmer tint, higher output, runs cooler.

Also put the same LED in my Kronos X6 and bypassed the springs.

Unfortunately I only have one left and it doesn’t look like I’ll be able to get anymore.

I put a fet+1 in a XinTD C8 7135 that has a XM-L U3 1A led in it. It’s a little brighter.

I received an xtar charger that failed when the AC adapter was plugged in. Xtar warrantied charger and I told them I’d destroy the first since I couldn’t send it back as they requested. The shell, messed up circuit board and sliding contacts remained, so, I built a charger/light combo using a 4056 charger and half (4.2V) of a messed up MTG2 LED. :smiley:

The left ‘bay’ is the charger and the right bay has a 3x 7135 driver powering the LED. The ‘diffuser’ is piece of a toothbrush case stuck down with double sided tape. :smiley:

that’s one of the weirdest things I’ve seen someone make on BLF :thumbsup:

In charger lighting!