Would you guys recommend me this as my first DMM?
I’m shopping for a reasonably priced multimeter and this seems great since I can also use it for flashlight current measurements.
I don’t need anything fancy, just a hobby DMM for various electronics projects I’d like to get into and around house stuff.
While I don’t have mine yet (patience is not one of my virtues) from what I can tell this is a great starter meter. I’m adding it to a circa 1987 Radio-Shack Micronta and a Fluke model 116/322 set This one gets me clamp on DC current measurements and a much higher DC current range than my HVAC specialty Fluke has. For the price, it is hard to go wrong. with this meter.
I just went to the product description page (after checking the tracking AGAIN) can anyone who has this model confirm if it has a frequency or temperature mode? The UT210D has accuracies listed for Frequency and temperature, where the UT210E does not. But the ‘standard accessories’ lists a “point contact temperature probe” in addition to the test leads. For the record - I will be happy either way, just trying to clarify.
According to the product description, it should. AC and DC Voltage, Resistance / Continuity, Capacitance, Diode forward voltage are all there.
Also listed are NCV, which I think is a Non Contact Voltage sensor, meaning that you can wave it near a wire and it beeps or displays something if voltage is present and “V.F.C.” which I have no idea what it is.
Data Hold: Yes
Backlit Display: Yes
Auto power off: Yes
Diode Test: Yes
Continuity Buzzer: Yes
Operation Method: Auto Range
Powered by: 2 x AAA Battery
Thanks djozz, you are obviously smarter than I am (check the manufacturers website, not the supplier - why didn’t I think of that! :party: (< dunce cap, not party cap.))
I have now pulled the user manual and found that this meter does not appear to measure frequency or temperature. I’m ok with this, as I have another meter that does this for me, but if it is important to you for what you need it to do, this is the wrong meter.
Rereading your post, I don’t know where I got the idea that you pulled it from the Manufacturer site. But your post DID make me go there, so I STILL think you are smarter than me! (Not to mention all the OTHER stuff you have posted.)
ANYway, BangGood’s current description of this meter is copy pasted below:
*Emphasis mine
The description does claim Frequency and Temp, probably because the specs in the table below have entries for the UT210D which DOES have Freq. and Temp. but has a different current range (2A/20A/100A for the 210E and 20A/200A for the 210D).
Once I get mine, I will try to do a mini review and post it to BangGood and bring this to their attention, I think this is a case of human error and NOT anything nefarious. It couldbeconfusingtosomeone was confusing to me until I looked HARD at the table and pulled the manual.
I did a brief comparison of my subsequent methods of measuring the tailcurrent of a direct drive 4A flashlight. The subject was a BLF LS D80 (1A, dedomed) with BLF-A6 driver and a Samsung 30Q at 4.06V (so not completely fully charged). I found these currents:
-my Ansman mid-quality DMM with stock leads: 3.01 A
-same Ansman DMM with short thick custom leads: 4.21 A
-voltage over a 0.01 (1%) sense resistor: 46.1 mV
-UNI-T UT210e clamp meter with small device made of 1mm copper sheet: 4.58 A
I made a video of the test, showing how fiddly high current measurements was before the clamp meter, and that the clamp meter with the copper thing was easiest to work with and gave the most consistent result (it will be the device of choice from now on), but that the sense resistor method at least gave the same result, so is accurate as well. The DMM gave too low results even with short thick leads.
Btw, I think my DMM does not work well at the moment, only for a slight moment the correct current displays (I'm sure it gave the normal reading for those moments), most of the time the numbers displayed were all over place while the light out of the flashlight looked fairly constant.
Next time someone new to the hobby asks why they are only getting 2.7A out of their 3A driver, they can be linked to the video to see what difference the leads alone will make.
I agree, that part is not very clear. The answer is that you must contact freeme. If you make a post in freeme’s group-buy thread requesting a PM about that deal you’ll get what you need.