BLF Kronos X6/X5 GB - Group Buy now closed.

I forgot to mention, just unscrew the reflector and remove it (don’t touch the inside, pain in the but to clean, seriously) to get at the screws holding down the led mcpcb, loosen them a little and center the led, then re tighten the screws and re install your reflector at the focus you want.

That’s the spirit! :slight_smile:

Quite a refreshing change of pace from reading the button-top 30Q discussion string.

Hi Kenneth,
I took a photo of how the Aluminum X6 disassembles(not a great photo, but you can see the seperate parts.

Mine was very easy to open by hand, but if they are stubborn strap wrenches are the easiest solution(mine are Craftsman from Sears). I have also used a thin rubber mat that is sold to help open stubborn jars also. Good luck,
Ed

Here is the final step I left out of the last photo:

This should probably be a FAQ somewhere since people keep asking, but… the thermal ceiling needs to be calibrated. Individual attiny25 units vary too much to be able to use one value for every light, so it needs per-unit calibration. Your individual light probably thinks that room temperature is “too hot”.

Tapping the button at config item 7 should put it into a special thermal calibration mode. It starts out on a low-medium level then goes up to maximum and stays there.

You can disable thermal regulation entirely by turning the light off while it’s still in low-medium…

… or you can set a new heat limit by leaving the light on until you think it’s too hot, then shutting the light off. I recommend using a freshly-charged cell for this, and it may need to run for several minutes before it’s hot.

I was curious about the galling issue, not because I’m worried about my lights per se, more that I just like to know stuff.

Here’s an article I thought seemed pretty informative about the causes and some solutions.

http://www.estainlesssteel.com/gallingofstainless.html

They mention molybdenum, graphite, mica and talc, but it seems that the focus is on fasteners that are installed and left in place, considering that they also talk about reducing rpm during installation. I doubt anyone is installing their tailcap at three thousand rpm :stuck_out_tongue:

I need to read the rest of it but I thought it might be helpful.

Yeah, humans have a physiological reaction to blue light. Special cells in the eye (ipRGCs, intrinsically photosensitive retinal ganglion cells) respond to sky-blue light and signal the brain to produce serotonin and suppress melatonin. This means that, when people see sunlight or other light sources with the relevant frequencies, they will generally feel more awake. Then when it’s dark, the brain makes more melatonin and less serotonin, which makes people feel sleepy after a few hours according to their individual phase response curve.

Some people don’t have this reaction, about 3 out of 10,000 people according to the studies I’ve seen… and out of those 3, statistically, 2 are legally blind.

I’m that oddball 1-in-10,000 case who lacks this reaction but yet can still see… so I can’t really use light as a way to regulate my circadian rhythms.

Anyway, I think the blue tailcaps are cool. I just want to tone it down a bit to extend standby time and make it a bit less eye-catching in public.

Received my #110 set today

-Box came in perfect conditions
-Lights are heavy and have a premium feel
-Fit and finish are far from perfect but on par with other lights this price.
-Both LEDs are uncentered, will adjust this later.
-Clicky feels solid
-In the X5, copper heatsink is noticeably a different color than the rest of the body.
-A couple small details in the exterior of both lights, not big deal
-Clip for X6 is not enough to hold such a heavy light

Will report with readings when I get home.

It’s this last part I can’t do with my Al X6. It goes fine with SS/Cu X6 and X5 and the Al X5, but on the Al X6 it’s impossible to remove the “shiny” thing. (reflector right?) It will not screw any way, will not move at all.
So this light has the yellow spot in the center of the beam, that’s is annoying, and a reflector that will not move at all.

Time to contact Neal?

Awesome, thanks for testing that!

I’m not even sure how to test the capacity of a capacitor…

Time to place your lights up for sale! Somebody will most certainly want them and appreciate them just as they are.

All I can say, is that this may be the best group buy light out there and they are perfect! LEDs centered, no nicks in the finish, everything works as it should!

Thanks guys and gals for putting this together, much appreciated!

Matt

Your problems are beginning to excite my esophageal ganglion.

Btw, I sleep fine bathed in blue light and a haze of various frequencies in the non visual spectrum.

I made a joke to a friend the other day about the possibility of weaving protective coated copper thread into clothing fabric to create a Faraday cage, albeit an incomplete one. Lol.

A nearly-imperceptible yellow spot in the beam? I’d personally skip Neal and just sue the postal service for delivering such garbage!

In case this makes anything more clear…

Science doesn’t give us answers. It just gives us a progression of theories which are less wrong than what we thought before. So… it’s not really about being right. It’s about being less wrong.

About eggs/coffee/whatever being good/bad for you, that’s just the media trying to make big headlines out of every tiny little thing. Some scientist lays down another cobblestone on the road to the future, and the media proclaims “This is it! We’re finally there!”

Hi Kenneth,
Since earlier in this thread I took offense as some of the things you had written, I thought the way you stated the problem with the reflector was much less offensive and more in line with other people’s posts of seeking assistance. That is why I took the photos to try and help. Sadly, I am at a loss of giving you direction from here. All of my lights easily come apart and can have the focus adjusted in seconds. I do not have the knowledge base to advise regarding possible penetrating oils that would be appropriate to use.(I have a vise with rubber padding I use for really stubborn items). I do wish you luck.
Ed

It sounds like you already fixed this, but … yeah, you can unscrew the reflector and MCPCB, adjust the centering, then screw everything back down. You might also want to adjust the depth of the reflector, to fine-tune the beam. On my aluminum X6, the beam was nicer (and measured as more intense) after I inserted a very thin spacer. My steel X6 was pretty much optimal without any changes though. So, your mileage may vary, but it may be worth attempting to fine-tune the focus yourself.

Just to report , my SS/Cu X6/X5 set showed up today. All serial numbers match (235 of 400) The box in perfect condition no nicks or dings anywhere. The X5 had ridden up out of its spot but no damage suffered to either light that I can see from that. There is one small ding on the X5 but you almost have to have a magnifying glass to find it. Emitters well centered on both ,beam, looks good on both, no fogging of lenses or reflectors anywhere and not stuck in any modes that I can find.

I would say overall, my set got to me in as near perfect condition as any light or set would arrive to your door from any destination of the world.

Great job Krono, bugsy36, Johnnymac, Dale, Toykeeper and if I missed anyone thank you too. Love the lights and thankful to be able to be one of the lucky ones to have gotten in on this GB, Keep up the good work and kudos to you all.

Any volunteers? Anyone want to make a BLF Kronos X6/X5 troubleshooting thread / FAQ? :slight_smile:

Normally a yellow spot in the center of the beam means that the LED is too far up the reflector and needs to be lowered, or in this case the reflector has to be raised a tiny bit, less than 1mm. It happened to me in several mods and using a XP sized clear plastic insulator solves the problem. Richard has them.