BLF Kronos X6/X5 GB - Group Buy now closed.

Any volunteers? Anyone want to make a BLF Kronos X6/X5 troubleshooting thread / FAQ? :slight_smile:

Normally a yellow spot in the center of the beam means that the LED is too far up the reflector and needs to be lowered, or in this case the reflector has to be raised a tiny bit, less than 1mm. It happened to me in several mods and using a XP sized clear plastic insulator solves the problem. Richard has them.

I like the blue but will probably double them up and reduce the current to make them dimmer but even.

The XP-L HI has much more even tint distribution than a domed emitter, but it’s not 100% perfectly distributed. It still leaks more yellow out to the sides than it does to the front. So, it’s pretty much guaranteed that the hotspot will be a bit more yellow than the rest of the beam. Not as much as with older emitters, usually, but the effect is still somewhat visible.

To reduce it, you will probably need to fine-tune the focus yourself — both centering and depth. IIRC, this process was already discussed within the last 50 posts or so, if you’d like more information.

I’ve had distinct spots in the beam even from premium brands like Zebralight. One nice thing about these BLF lights is that we can open it up and fix it.

Again, what have I done to you to deserve so many negative comments?
The SS/Cu set was super, ok, some dent corners on the box, and some scratches on the Cu light. But nothing big. I’m really happy, love the tail light, and the only thing I’m sorry for is that I will not use them, just have them in the box.

Therefor I have ordered 3 Al sets. At least one for my self. And the first that come here, has a really yellow spot right in the center of the beam, you can’t miss it. This is not normal, my other three lights have not the yellow spot.
Then, trying to fix it, the reflector? is stuck, no way to get it open. Is this normal?

Would you say that this light is 100% and what I paid for? I can not center the led, I can not open the reflector, I have a yellow spot in the beam.
Others with the same issue?

Don’t blame me for getting a light that don’t meet the standard the lights from this GB should have. But you of course think, it’s just Kenneth, he can live with the damaged light, no biggie. Good I have two more Al sets coming, hope they are OK, and then I can put this Al X6 in a drawer and forget about it. Good that I live in Norway so I have lots of money to spend on this.

And really nice to have a so supportive team member that supports the GB customers that you bugsy36. I can not fix this light, so I have to live with it. Would you have paid $50 for something broken that you could not fix?

Thank for the effort and help. You are better then many others here. I’m really a hated person on this forum.

I have nothing against you or anyone but honestly you have build up a reputation where most of the things you order don’t work as they should and can’t be fixed by yourself, which is… Uncommon?

I’d suggest starting by asking Neal for a replacement driver. It’s the sort of thing which is A) clearly broken, and B) can be fixed by a replacement part.

I’m not sure if the drivers will be sold by themselves, but I’m guessing they probably will be after a while.

Ken,

The XPL Hi is an emitter without a dome and yellow is NOT out of the ordinary in some of the emitters regardless of batch. IT happens. It is the nature of it.

Just return the lights. returns with you are inevitable. You are not just a chronic complainer. You will break whatever rules to satisfy your desires. At the present moment...you should not even have those in your hands AND I know that had someone else had them they would most certainly appreciate them. PLEASE do not tell me how financially hurt you are. Fact is the light does work. Don't like the yellow....sell them and stick with the aluminum sets but chances are that you will look for reason to get refunds there too.

The better DMM's have a setting for it, usually shared with the resistance measurement setting. I used a Fluke, but my UNI-T UT50B DMM and my UNI-T UT210E clamp meter can read Farads as well. Biggest issue is the cap usually can't be read in circuit because of too many effects of the circuit, unlike resistors that can be read on the board Smile.

This should be printed in large, friendly lettering on the cover of the box. :slight_smile:


Works as stated. Use with caution.

well my boxed set arrived yesterday and i never got to see it because it was apparently stolen off my front porch

Absolutely!!!!

Ken, use a sandal or a tennis shoe… a deck shoe for wearing on a boat like a Sperry Topsider is ideal… press the open face of the reflector against this rubber to grip it, twist the head of the light. Should unscrew. Or lay the piece of rubber down so you can press the light down onto it and twist off.

Obviously, make sure there are no little rocks or pebbles stuck in the tread of the rubber before you try this. :wink:

My lights showed up monday, #042 of 400.
The box had dents and chips in 3 of 4 corners but not too noticeable.
I ordered the 3B emitters and the X6 was 3B but the X5 is 1A.
I would have ordered that combo if I could have so that’s fine too.
In all a great deal, I’m really happy with this group buy.
Thanks for all the effort. :slight_smile:

You do understand that I have NO issues with the SS/Cu set. The issue I have is with the Al X6. So stop talking about the SS/Cu set.
I’m not out for refund each time a have an issue. But I MUST be allowed to write about my issues like all others in this thread. Don’t know why I is so unlycky with stuff like this, but I had no issues with the 7 BLF A6 lights, or the 4 BLF D80 lights I got. Also got several EE X6 XP-L HI without any issues, and a ton (around 30) of S2+ from Simon and Gearbest, all working 100%.

Still, why do you hate me so much? It is not me that have make this light, it’s not me that has glued or tighten the reflector and it’s not me that have made the yellow spot. But you blame me for it it seems.

So I’m not allowed to complain when something is wrong? The Al lights is public, so I can buy so many as I want, still, issues is issues.

Replacement parts won’t fix this.

A screwdriver and some fine-tuning and possibly a strap wrench will fix this.

Possibly a thin spacer too, like the one RMM at MtnElectronics carries (linked a couple pages ago), or a few sheets of paper cut to fit (or whatever else you can wedge in to keep the reflector from going too deep).

The issue here is that the reflector is stuck, so I can not open it to fix it. That is the main issue. If I could get the reflector open, maybe there would be a easy fix for the issue.

A couple people have mentioned that. I wonder if there was more than one batch made, with slightly different processes. Or maybe more than one chunk of copper used as source material. Got a picture? I’ve never actually seen a copper mismatch.

Ugh I’m sorry man that’s just awful. People make me sick sometimes I swear. Hopefully karma will catch up to them.