I build box mods for a prestigious local shop, and we have no use for lighted switches. Occasionally someone will use a lighted switch, but it is not commonly accepted as A good thing due to using .01A that the atomizer could use, and the extra parasitic drain is "bad". Like anyone would notice the loss of power, but the masses don't like it.
I vape also, and the insinuation that I am a stoner is offensive and ignorant, but hey if you want to be ignorant, that's on you. I won't call you names or imply your on drugs for it.
Has anyone thought about squeezing a mosfet into the design? You could eliminate the Omten 1288 switch in favor of a smaller tactile switch and a FET that would be much more suitable for the conditions, and have room on that upper board for more leds if you didn't need the big hole in the middle. Would also free up a lit of space in the tailcap and possibly eventually lead to shorter flashlights if designed to optimize the newfound space.
Smoke, Smoke, Smoke that cigarette. Puff, puff, puff, until you puff your self to death.
Tell Saint Peter at that Golden Gate, Lord you hate to make him wait, but you got to have another cigarette.
Commander Cody
I'm not too familiar with electronics, but since we are charging the host with +power to power the leds(connecting batt+to ground through bleeder resistor) maybe that can be used to trigger the gate leg of a mosfet (with a tactile switch) which would then allow power to flow between the source and the drain, turning on the light... Or if there is a way to put a negative trigger on a negative load from drain to source? A mosfet would be able to handle the power with ease so we wouldn't be burning out switches anymore.
I am not real familiar with different types of mosfets, so wether it would need an NPN or PNP or other type of transistor is beyond me. It may just be wishful thinking on my part but hopefully someone that knows more can chime in?
Those are two separate groups.
Some evaporator users consume other than tobacco…
Those people (except in Colorado and Washington) don’t buy from public sources.
You’re a public source. You don’t get patronized by the people I’m thinking of. Nothing in that description refers to you.
People can tell the difference.
You are overgeneralizing and stereotyping an entire community, and in essence myself being included in that community calling me a stoner. Which I am not. That is ignorant. You are being ignorant. That is not calling you names, that is stating fact.
This is not the place for that discussion, so I digress.
Full assortment of the smart and latest non-smart boards arrived today… Is there any firmware that anyone has hacked in prep for these boards? If so, where to get it? I may get time to put one together this weekend for testing. I will get one of the new ring boards together as I have a need for one.
I got a shipping notification for my oshpark order today, so mine are on the way. I didn’t order the smart boards though. Probably going to regret that when you guys start putting together that new awesomeness and I’m here just building my first “dumb” boards
I got some “dumb” boards today, still waiting on the “smart” boards. Moving the LEDs up and getting rid of the spacer/washer brings a huge increase in efficiency.
Notice my meter is on the micro amp scale = 0.0207ma. So theoretically a 2500mah cell would last 13+ years of constant use before being totally empty. I had to completely max-out a 50k pot to get this brightness.
I got some that are 0805 footprint. Slowly change colors, but stay on red the longest. Looks interesting sitting on a shelf. I think it needs more voltage than the standard LEDs.
On a different note, have you considered putting some more of the consolidated knowledge in the first post?
Typical resistor values that work with different color LED’s, etc? Makes it easier for people who have not been following the thread from the start.
