Possibly cooked the Zener? Please:
- Take detailed pics.
- Measure voltage at MCU pin 8 (Vcc).
Also what do you mean by saying that you are going to “r2 the 200ohm resistor” tomorrow?
Sorry, in a prior career r2 meant remove and replace.
I’ll pull the driver and measure voltage at pin 8 before I do anything
Sounds good. [Depending in part on the tools you have available] I’m sure that there are other things to check - I just can’t think of them right now.
What specific Zener are you running? 200 ohms is possibly a little low for really strong batteries and a “low” mode with MMSZ5229B I think (for example). Again - I’m pretty rusty on this information and I never did much with Zener modded stuff.
Diode I used is one of these
Your comment about the resistor made me test some things. With two KK ICR cells at 3.65volts each, the driver appears to work as normal.
With fully charged cells the driver acts crazy……I need to do some extended testing with the lower volt cells to make sure the driver is 100%, but I think it just needs something more than 200ohm.
There were more differences between those drivers than just the resistor. It seemed that the resistor was relevant, but not as big a factor as I had thought. To really quantify it, someone would have to build identical drivers with only that part changed.
Received my pcbs today from Oshpark ! Anyway , I’m still waiting for some components… 
Hello guys and gals,
I'm pretty new to modifying and building flashlights and pretty much all I know about it so far has been learned from the majority of you guys right here. I've been lurking and absorbing info from this place for 2-3 years and repairing and modifying for a year or so. I'm getting way better and still learning and having a good time at it.
I started ordering the DIY kits from RMM a while back and have had really good luck with them.
I ordered a few of the MTN17dd kits and assembled 3 of them all at the same time in the same manner. (Guppydrv rev1)
The first one is operating fine.
The 2nd has no off time memory. It always goes to the next mode no matter how long it's off. I can program it like normal. I changed out the otc and no change.
The third one has no off time memory and it can't be programmed. It'll go into configuration mode but when i tap in the mode group I want it just keeps blinking in configuration mode till it times out never recognizing the mode group selection. It just stays in the default L-M-H .
I need help!
Hello guys , and sorry for being a noob (question is coming!)…
for this driver , what the following numbers on pwm should be ? on toykeeper’s starry-offtime
Also , is this designed for attiny 25 ? Beacause i get a memory overflow error
Only one of the two PWM channels is used on this driver.
So set the one array to numbers you like from 1 to 255, the other one will not be used.
(IIRC the first array is for PWM channel 1, which this driver is using).
Try something like this:
#define MODESNx 1,4,16,64,255
No idea about the intended target MCU.
What is your compiled size? Make sure the -Os compiler option is set.
Thanks for your help DEL.
I get this :
Error Program Memory Usage : 1088 bytes 106,3 % Full (Memory Overflow)
Data Memory Usage : 39 bytes 60,9 % Full GccApplication5 GccApplication5 0
That is close to fitting. You have to get the 1088 below 1024.
I do not use AVR Studio, but you should have a selection somewhere to ‘optimize compilation for size or -Os’. That should bring you in under the limit.
In AVR Studio right click on the name of the project (in the project tree on the righthand side) and click properties then head to ” toolchain / compiler / optimization / optimization level” via HarleyQuin here.
Hmm i didn’t find something…
Edit : Thanks wight , i’m going to try it
Edit2: Thanks wight!!! It’s ok now 
Still have to study a lot about writing/modifying firmwares….
If they’re running the same code and behave differently, it pretty much has to be a hardware problem. You’ve probably got a short or broken connection or burnt component or something.
There are some tools to measure some of this, but if you reflash your MCU you won’t be able to put guppydrv back on. So, that makes things a bit harder.
Anyway, I’d suggest looking for physical problems on those drivers.
No, I don’t think it’s even compatible with tiny25. It sounds like you already got it working though.
If anyone knows a portable way to make the Windows atmel tools get the right build settings, it’d be nice to include that in the repository. This sort of thing comes up a lot. I’ve got the settings in build scripts for CLI-based OSes, but that doesn’t help in Windows. And if I understand correctly, WinAVR’s project files work on a per-directory basis and aren’t portable, so including those is generally not a very good solution. If it might be possible to include just one set though, and apply them everywhere… is there an option for that?
Thanks for the reply TK. It turns out that my d1 was a zener instead of shottky. I swapped in the correct diode and all is fine. I'm just a noob learning new tricks.
I'd like to apologize to everyone for hijacking this thread. After reading it thru it dawned on me that I should've asked my question in another thread or started my own.
Oops, only just noticed this. I should investigate this, but @work now. I’ve been through this of course, tweaking build settings. Guess we could at least document the Atmel Studio settings by screen grabs, etc. - would make it a lot easier for setting up.
I had some issues getting a 10uf capacitor(ordered now) and the 19.1k resistor…
So , i used a 4.7uf capacitor and a 19.6k resistor (one 22k ohm and one 180k ohm resistors , parallel).
I flashed starry offtime , but my modes are weird.
I get (with half clicks): low, medium1, medium2, high1, high2, blank(flashlight does nothing) , strobe , and turbo(?) .
If i unnderstand right , where i get the “blank” mode , i should getting battcheck.
Why did this happen? thanks
Bonus question : If i want memory enabled , i should connect “star 3” to ground ?