Astrolux S1 (BLF A6) measurements

Impressive testing!

Can you tell which instrument you used for color measurements?

Sorry, forgot to add information about the measurement devices used.

For spectral information and CRI calculations I have an X-rite i1Pro spectrophotometer with HCFR for the plot and ArgyllCMS spotread.exe for the data. For runtime tests I use spotread.exe with a custom script and a i1Display Pro because it doesn’t require calibration every 30 minutes like the i1Pro.

Thanks, i1Display Pro seems to be affordable, found it at 200$.

I guess you just shine the light into its diffuser, from a distance?

Exactly. The i1Display Pro is a colorimeter, ie it has three light meters with filters inside. It is not as accurate as a true spectrophotometer but for output testing it is fine. Although if you don’t need a colorimeter for monitor calibration but just for runtime or lux measurements, I would probably just get a loggin lux meter like Extech HD450 that is comparable in price but easier to use (no 3rd party software required). But then again, with the right software the i1Dispay Pro can roughly estimate color temperature too.

Oh we just found BLF-selfbuilt :stuck_out_tongue:

Thanks for this review man.

Something for you, Djozz ? are you reading this?

More info on runtimes and temperature at the end of the first post.

Excellent testing info. Thanks.

I updated the beamshot and spill cie graphs with more accurate measurements and differentiated between the hotspot corona and the outermost spill corona.

With an updated integrated sphere (20 cm styrofoam sphere many people seem to be using) I measured 1076 lumens out of the S1. This is a 14 % difference to the earlier measurement of 945 lumens where I used a styrofoam box. Same battery (Eagtac 3500 mAh) was used.

With less bright lights in my other reviews the difference is only about 3 % across the board, with some exceptions on some really floody lights (DQG Fairy). This is mostly due to similar beam profile to the Fenix E05 AAA that I use to calibrate my readings. I will update all the tables after some more experimenting. I also got a 30 and 40 cm spheres to test.

Added color rendering information to the OP. See explanation here: CRI vs. alternatives with measurement examples

Tried the 30 cm styrofoam ball and got some more measured lumens, 1095 to be exact. This is 1,7 % higher than with the 20 cm sphere.

Some comparisons with different integrating spheres I’ve tried.

The 30 cm sphere has a sanded (1200 grit paper) inner surface. On both spheres the measurement is done on the surface. Thanks to djozz for the idea here Integrating sphere #4 (the fast and cheap one)

In my sphere the flashlights rests on top of a transparent plastic sheet level with the inner surface.

Maukka: Thanks for the impressive tests. Your report is so clearly written and the graphs are so easy to read that even I can understand them. :wink:

Very thorough and easy to use, an absolute pleasure to read, please so more, MOAR!

Grtz
Nico

Got some Efest 18350s to test with the shortie tube. Here’s a runtime graph.

Didn’t verify lumen output compared to the 18650 tube & Eagtac 3500 mAh yet but I’d estimate it is similar at about 1100.

Measured the lumens with the Efest 18350 and it is essentially identical with the Eagtac 18650. 1050 lumens on the 18350 vs. 1090 on the 18650. Also tried the new Samsung 30Q (flat top…) and only got 1004. I haven’t done the spring bypass and the Samsung doesn’t even have 1 full cycle on it yet so the output might change.

I’m really liking the smaller 18350 size and will leave that on for edc.

I concur that the Astrolux S1, especially in the 18350 config is an EDC dream.

I also love my tiny Olight S1 at 500 lumens….but for just a little more pocket real estate, you can get 1000 lumens…just wow !

Had this little pocket rocket last night when the timer field lights went out unexpectedly at my son’s baseball practice.

This little pocket rocket lit up the WHOLE place…and made a serious statement.

A flashaholic just lives for those moments…….lol

I would agree with you. The option to choose dual modes and to turn the momery on or off is the biggest advantage of this light. This is the light I have been looking for! Thanks to everyone behind this light.

In my new flashlight, there are two springs in the tail. Tell me do you need to improve with an additional wire?

Depends on what “need” is. An additional wire will get you a bit more current, even compared with a double spring.

I used to have this lantern and there was one spring in the tail and a place to solder the wire. Now there are two springs and there is no place to solder the wire. The question is whether it is necessary to improve the current strength.