inside the acebeam K40M - lots of pics and NOW modded!


and the other side please where the spring is…

It is stuck, than then again to stick together? Thermopaste? Thermoglue? What?

Probably attached in a similar was as the K50 driver.

Mod at own risk.. It can be fairly stuck.

the contact board was not glued on mine
I pressed a bit with the finger nail and it popped off

Did you dedome the LED yourself? Which method?

if one does it - please make before / after shots! :wink:

+1 Share your dedome method, Did the dedome made the tint cooler?, I recall someone writing about a cooler tint after dedome…

Never got around to post how I did my mod, but here are some old pictures.

The driver was a PITA to get out, otherwise this mod would have gone quick and smooth. I don't have problems with sealed screws, but on my light they must have combined sealed screws with something that looks like blue loctite (I drilled out the screw head). I got my light properly assembled again after some work, and replacing a screw.

2xR100 was added.

Stock current on all modes:

0,00

0,05

0,52

1,38

2,58

4,75A stepdown to 4,18

After mod (2xR100 added)

2xR100

0,00

0,05

2,18

4,01

7,4 (Faling quickly and stepdown to 6,15A)

K40M stock emitter amp

4,86 startup

4,77 10 sec

4,71 30 sec

4,66 1 min

4,18 1 min 10 sec ( after stepdown)

4,16 2 min

4,14 2 min 30 sec

4,12 3 min 30 sec

4,11 4 min 30 sec

4,10 5 min

Modded:

7,1 10 sec

6,94 30 sec

6,81 1 min

6,15 1 sec 15 ( after stepdown)

6,14 1min 30 sec

6,09 2 min

6,06 2 min 30 sec

6,02 3 min

5,99 3 min 30

5,97 4 min - (59degree C, stopped test. Very similar behavior to stock, just hotter.)

Sorry if a messed up a number or two, these were just from my quick notes.

The light now got stupid hot around the control ring if its used on the highest setting. Heat transfer to the head is not that great (not unusual with this type of design). Not sure If ill recommend to push it that far since its well driven as a stock light. In all honestly, this light is so well driven stock, that modding may not be worth it.

I have added output numbers in the bonus section of my comparison thread (easy to compare with stock and other lights). Might end up adding more beamshots in the future. Might include impressions after more long term use in comparison to the other lights in that thread as well.. Time will tell.. :p

thanks!

To unscrew glued screws I used Acetone. It softens the glue and it was easy to put scredriver tip.
No damage done.
Mike

thanks for that great info!

Damn, with 2x R100 it is insanely bright.
Superb torch.

great!

any measured numbers before / after ?
beamshots??

:wink:

I compared visually to brightest torch I have, difference is huge.
Downside is that NCR18650B die very fast on maximum :slight_smile:
Mike

After a few daus of use my K40m I have a problem with battery carrier.
Because of high current flow springs become flatten, soft and get weird colour due to heat. Now cells have no contact :frowning:
Any clue what springs should I use as replecemant?
Mike

Whichever springs you use make sure to bypass them with braid or wire to prevent the weakening/flattening. It’s fairly simple, but can be a little annoying to accomplish at first; after you do a couple you can knock em’ out fast.

100% true

Done :slight_smile:
Springs bypassed. Light is working as it should.
Thanks guys.
Mike

I just wanted to update, than after 16 months of use k40m still rocks.
Mike