The use of a filter for 365nm leds is to filter out the white light that the leds produce as a by-product, the 365nm light is completely invisible.
385nm leds is a different case, there’s no white by-product (which is a good thing), what is distracting is the 385nm light itself, your eyes are slightly sensitive for it and with these high outputs it is clearly visible as a purple glow. You’re not going to filter that out because 385nm is what the led is about. You can use yellow glasses on your head when using this light, it will remove the purple glow, but also makes the world a bit yellow of course
BTW, I use polycarbonate safety glases with this light, my eyes would be dead without them. Yellow glasses are even more friendly for my eyes.
You’re right. I was shamelessly plugging a product request to gin up demand for such a product. I would like to make a 365 UV flooder with my 10 budget 365nm emitters I already have.
Are you certain that the new driver is not a buck driver? (and maybe the old driver too?) The new driver appears to include a large coil, a large capacitor, sense resistors, and two DPAK items. Since diodes are available in DPAK layout the driver could easily have an FET and a diode on it. Together a buck controller IC, this completes the list of normal parts included with a buck driver.
I only know some driver basics so I could nevertell anything for sure , at least the batteries are parallel and the two ‘FETS’ are wired in parallel, with the two R100’s between ground and what I assume is FET-source, the FET-drain is the led-minus, the thorroid is connected to led-plus. So I assumed that it is direct drive, and I vaguely remember comfychair adding a thorroid to a direct driver as well for some reason (suppress nasty spikes?). I closed the light up for now, but I’m prepared to open it again to make better pictures of the driver if there’s interest and it helps understanding what is going on.
Btw, it is a simple high, low, off driver with low frequency PWM, electronic switch and a small green on-led in the switch. I like the simplicity of it but it is not anything advanced.
Don’t bother opening it up for that reason. We already understand how the inexpensive Chinese buck circuits are laid out, so if it’s one of those we wouldn’t learn anything.
If the FETs are truly wired in parallel and there is no schottky diode then it is certainly just an FET/DD/PWM driver.
The inductor/coil does help with spikes. We’ve seen single cell drivers constructed both ways. (The initial 3-toroid SRK drivers were in fact buck setups for example.)
Thanks! Hmmmm, how I made the heatblock is in the same ancient thread as my above mentioned terribly shaky first reflow, so I’m a bit hesitant to reveal the link……, oh well, here it is, don’t laugh :-/ link