Does this light require button or flat top cells (or either) ?
Also as I will have to buy new cells for this light as I presently don”t own any 26650”s any recommendations on good cells.
Short answer: button tops
Thanks for that pd.
Any recommendations on a cell.
If the Cometa group buy I am in also takes button tops then I will need to buy 4.
As both lights have low voltage warning & cut out features I imagine I don”t need protected cells.
I’m not the best person to suggest a button-top 26650, I’ve never had one.
I plan to buy some of the Basen cells freeme is trying to start a groupbuy on, though I think they are flattops so I’ll add a button to one of them.
The Cometa should take flattops though.
Thanks for the info pd, they will be my first 26650”s also as at present I just have lots of 18650”s but would like to run the S70 & Cometa on 26650”s for the extra capacity (run time).
Unfortunately I am in the UK & think postage will probably kill the deal although I will have a look.
From what I can see good quality 26650”s are quite dear in the UK, probably the equivalent of around 14-18 dollars a cell !
EDIT:
Just checked shipping & the cheapest is over $50 dollars so it is a no go.
Newly shaved LED…
……………………
Also, who knows how to do a resistor mod? Just throw on an extra sense resistor, or is there a way to dial it in with less guess-work? This driver has two R091 resistors in parallel and an extra empty slot.
I have not tried that before. Bet it is a nerve-racking process. }
If I did it freehand it would have been more nerve-racking, but I used the centering ring as a guide
An update to the current readings: The first time I measured the highest mode was with my clamp meter on Panasonic BD’s at 4.1v, and I got 5.5amps. I just remeasured with the same meter on fully-charged Samsung 30Q’s, and got a max of 4amps. So something happened.
1. The driver is very inconsistent (unlikely)
2. I somehow mis-read the meter the first time (still pretty unlikely)
3. When I opened it up, re-wired, and shaved the LED, I messed something up (probable)
I just thought I would post this now in case other people start getting 4amp readings instead of 5.5amps.
Isn’t the driver from that kind that pulls those batteries stronger that have higher internal resistence? Just like the Maxtoch BLF thrower.
I’ll need to purchase this light. Where can it be found?
Freeme is currently doing a groupbuy on it for a great price, can also be found on Amazon.
You could very well be right, so I’ll add:
4. The driver is a buck, and doesn’t have to pull as much current because the 30Q’s are sagging less than the BD’s
Thanks guys, I’m waiting for the code. This light is a good price and a real ball buster to be sure.
I should probably get two…
RS.Freak bridged the Resistors and shaved the LED
he got 55.560Lux before and 108.400 Lux after the Mod (and a lot more Lumens)
-> his german review: Review ThorFire S70 [XHP70 LED] | Taschenlampen Forum
Thanks for the tip Martin
…………………….
WOW!
If you haven’t gotten in on freeme’s groupbuy, do it.
First I bypassed both front/rear springs, then I re-did measurements of all modes with fully charged Samsung 30Q’s:
Low: 0.26amps
Medium: 1.28amps
High: 2.53amps
Turbo: 3.95amps
Then I took the driver out and simply dropped a blob of solder on some empty pads, bypassing the stock sense resistors, and remeasured with the same cells:
Low: 0.23amps
Medium: 1.29amps
High: 2.93amps
Turbo: 9.20amps
Now these are tail numbers on a buck driver, so the emitter isn’t seeing exactly that, but I would guess the emitter is probably getting about 8amps.
If you do this you will want to use top-rated batteries because the buck driver will pull even more as the cells go down. I’m also going to pot the driver because I am sure it is going to get very very hot in there.
Could you take some pictures of the mods you did? I’m hopefully going to get this light and would like to be able to do these mods. Maybe some before and after pictures as well if possible. Thanks!