Ouchyfoot, I have been thinking about doing a build thread on the dumb tailcap boards, with pics or videos. Still waiting on parts… May give it a go soon.
I’ll be watching for it. Thanks from me and others.
I prepped a Maglite 2D for an H22A heatsink, mtg2, and a 5A MTNMAX driver. Changed the stock switch over to negative (thanks OL!). Glued the led on and glued the copper positive contact. Phew that was a lot of work.
Just have to pot and install the driver, solder some wires, and mess with that gigantic spring. I suppose I’ll need some killer 26650.. Maybe 32650’s to power this beast.
This has by far been the most involved mod I’ve ever done. I spent 5 or 6 hours last night tweaking, test fitting, tweaking, test fitting, filing, and more test fitting but I think I am finally done with the bulk of the tough stuff. I got the driver all set up and potted (after quadruple checking everything was working). Switch is set in place and the leads are ready to be attached to that beautiful MTG2 board. I’m just waiting for the thermal glue to thoroughly set up before making the (hopefully) final 2 solder joints.
Nice. I’ve never even attempted a mag build because it just seemed like so much work! So kudos.
I spent part of my evening in Eagle designing 14mm single-sided FET+1 board, before I realized wight had already done basically the same thing. Doh! I will say I like mine better though haha
A short mod, but one that I wanted to do for a long time already: replacing the led of a AAA cheapy (brand-less, from Fasttech, but it is exactly the same build as the Singfire/BLF 348) with a ‘led4power’ 365nm led and replace the lens with a 10mm ZWB2 UV-pass filter. I thought it would be great for banknotes, but it is actually too bright for that without protecting glasses, unless it is for checking for a brief moment. It is not as innocent as it looks..
I thought it would be great for banknotes, but it is actually too bright for that without protecting glasses, unless it is for checking for a brief moment. It is not as innocent as it looks..
That’s why i used the Thrunite Ti, it’s good to have a lower mode. The high mode on mine is quite powerful too.
You’ve got me thinking about modding my BLFCQG S1 now.
I thought it would be great for banknotes, but it is actually too bright for that without protecting glasses, unless it is for checking for a brief moment. It is not as innocent as it looks..
That’s why i used the Thrunite Ti, it’s good to have a lower mode. The high mode on mine is quite powerful too.
You’ve got me thinking about modding my BLFCQG S1 now.
Well, I’m thinking about gutting my Tom E. BTU Shocker. By todays standards it is a little long in the tooth if you will. So, I’m thinking maybe some XP-L HI’s? Then what would I drive them with? All three parallel to a 17DD +1? Or maybe, One driver per led? What would you do with it if you wanted to change it up to something a little newer. Right now it has some dedomed XM-L2 God knows what. I’m afraid to look at the existing driver which I have not done yet.
A short mod, but one that I wanted to do for a long time already: replacing the led of a AAA cheapy (brand-less, from Fasttech, but it is exactly the same build as the Singfire/BLF 348) with a ‘led4power’ 365nm led and replace the lens with a 10mm ZWB2 UV-pass filter. I thought it would be great for banknotes, but it is actually too bright for that without protecting glasses, unless it is for checking for a brief moment. It is not as innocent as it looks.. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1448/24616251153_50b28553ff_o.jpghttps://farm2.staticflickr.com/1521/24875720669_c2b496bf19_o.jpg
Sweet! It turned out nicely. You could change out the sense resistor on that flashlight to reduce output. Based on these pictures I’d say it should be the one marked R50.
Well, I’m thinking about gutting my Tom E. BTU Shocker. By todays standards it is a little long in the tooth if you will. So, I’m thinking maybe some XP-L HI’s? Then what would I drive them with? All three parallel to a 17DD +1? Or maybe, One driver per led? What would you do with it if you wanted to change it up to something a little newer. Right now it has some dedomed XM-L2 God knows what. I’m afraid to look at the existing driver which I have not done yet.
I don’t think you’ll see any improvement switching to XPL Hi except maybe tint improvement. Maybe a driver upgrade might see a marginal increase.
I recently upgraded my stock dd xml btu shocker to a 3S FET, Xpl-hi. Based on my calculations at 6amps should see around 400kcd. I am unfortunately only seeing 4.8A and 257kcd with 30Q’s. My 20awg lead run from driver to mcpcb may be a tad long for 20awg. Not much else I could improve.
Well, I’m thinking about gutting my Tom E. BTU Shocker. By todays standards it is a little long in the tooth if you will. So, I’m thinking maybe some XP-L HI’s? Then what would I drive them with? All three parallel to a 17DD +1? Or maybe, One driver per led? What would you do with it if you wanted to change it up to something a little newer. Right now it has some dedomed XM-L2 God knows what. I’m afraid to look at the existing driver which I have not done yet.
I don’t think you’ll see any improvement switching to XPL Hi except maybe tint improvement. Maybe a driver upgrade might see a marginal increase.
I recently upgraded my stock dd xml btu shocker to a 3S FET, Xpl-hi. Based on my calculations at 6amps should see around 400kcd. I am unfortunately only seeing 4.8A and 257kcd with 30Q’s. My 20awg lead run from driver to mcpcb may be a tad long for 20awg. Not much else I could improve.
Well, I’m thinking about gutting my Tom E. BTU Shocker. By todays standards it is a little long in the tooth if you will. So, I’m thinking maybe some XP-L HI’s? Then what would I drive them with? All three parallel to a 17DD +1? Or maybe, One driver per led? What would you do with it if you wanted to change it up to something a little newer. Right now it has some dedomed XM-L2 God knows what. I’m afraid to look at the existing driver which I have not done yet.
I don’t think you’ll see any improvement switching to XPL Hi except maybe tint improvement. Maybe a driver upgrade might see a marginal increase.
I recently upgraded my stock dd xml btu shocker to a 3S FET, Xpl-hi. Based on my calculations at 6amps should see around 400kcd. I am unfortunately only seeing 4.8A and 257kcd with 30Q’s. My 20awg lead run from driver to mcpcb may be a tad long for 20awg. Not much else I could improve.
Is your battery carrier holding you back?
It shouldn’t be. I bypassed all springs with high quality braid or 22awg wire and beefed up all traces with 30ga copper sheet.
Here’s the data measured at different stages:
Stock BTU Shocker (XML alu mcpcb & DRY Driver):
108kcd @ 7ft
405lux Ceiling Bounce
FET & 3x XPL HI on noctigon
Installed
4.3A tailcap
197kcd
464lux
Overhauled one of my first 3up X6’s and played around with GITD stuff applied to some optics,
This X6 had a glued Al-Heatsink, 3 badly dedomed 219B on a FET driver and additinal glass lens. Board was also glued down. I managed to force the board out. Heatsink was left in place but I drilled and tapped two holes into it to secure the board. Sanded down the 32mm board and soldered it under the new one. LEDs are 219B-V1 R9050 sw57, by the way. Sanded down the bezel a bit and now it’s a perfect fit without additional glass lens. While the optics are curing, I prepared a 105C based driver. It’s a dual channel 11+2 AMC7135 driver now, 4.67 A max, running BLF-A6 firmware with BATTCHECK_VpT (EDIT: doesn’t work), 6- and 4-mode-groups, where in the 6-mode-group, 4 modes are running solely on the 2nd 2×7135-channel, in the 4-mode-group, 2 modes are 2nd channel only. Didn’t dare to touch the optics yet, hope they’ll turn out nice.
I thought the Clnvous have HA3
But mine are very nice in grey and mat black no need to bake them (I use the gas flames much faster then heating the whole oven)
I did a complete mod. today. Using the driver I planned didn’t work out easy, so I used an old SK-68 clone driver with a new Nichia to up the output of a RoMiSen RC-A8 on CR123A.
—
Flashlight designers should look at lighthouses and pottery.
这些谁设计的手电筒应该看灯塔，以及在陶器。
I’ll be watching for it. Thanks from me and others.
Built up a C8 XP-G2. Baked a M2
This has by far been the most involved mod I’ve ever done. I spent 5 or 6 hours last night tweaking, test fitting, tweaking, test fitting, filing, and more test fitting but I think I am finally done with the bulk of the tough stuff. I got the driver all set up and potted (after quadruple checking everything was working). Switch is set in place and the leads are ready to be attached to that beautiful MTG2 board. I’m just waiting for the thermal glue to thoroughly set up before making the (hopefully) final 2 solder joints.
Nice. I’ve never even attempted a mag build because it just seemed like so much work! So kudos.
I spent part of my evening in Eagle designing 14mm single-sided FET+1 board, before I realized wight had already done basically the same thing. Doh! I will say I like mine better though haha
My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03
Major Projects: Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver
A short mod, but one that I wanted to do for a long time already: replacing the led of a AAA cheapy (brand-less, from Fasttech, but it is exactly the same build as the Singfire/BLF 348) with a ‘led4power’ 365nm led and replace the lens with a 10mm ZWB2 UV-pass filter. I thought it would be great for banknotes, but it is actually too bright for that without protecting glasses, unless it is for checking for a brief moment. It is not as innocent as it looks..
link to djozz tests
Nice.
That’s why i used the Thrunite Ti, it’s good to have a lower mode. The high mode on mine is quite powerful too.
You’ve got me thinking about modding my BLF CQG S1 now.
- LEDs & Other Stuff - - UI CheatSheets - - CRX Flashlight Builds - - CRX Stuff for Sale -
link to djozz tests
Well, I’m thinking about gutting my Tom E. BTU Shocker. By todays standards it is a little long in the tooth if you will. So, I’m thinking maybe some XP-L HI’s? Then what would I drive them with? All three parallel to a 17DD +1? Or maybe, One driver per led? What would you do with it if you wanted to change it up to something a little newer. Right now it has some dedomed XM-L2 God knows what. I’m afraid to look at the existing driver which I have not done yet.
Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)
I don’t think you’ll see any improvement switching to XPL Hi except maybe tint improvement. Maybe a driver upgrade might see a marginal increase.
I recently upgraded my stock dd xml btu shocker to a 3S FET, Xpl-hi. Based on my calculations at 6amps should see around 400kcd. I am unfortunately only seeing 4.8A and 257kcd with 30Q’s. My 20awg lead run from driver to mcpcb may be a tad long for 20awg. Not much else I could improve.
Dedomed XP-G2 2b LOVING the tint. Having issues with the driver.
Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)
It shouldn’t be. I bypassed all springs with high quality braid or 22awg wire and beefed up all traces with 30ga copper sheet.
Here’s the data measured at different stages:
Stock BTU Shocker (XML alu mcpcb & DRY Driver):
108kcd @ 7ft
405lux Ceiling Bounce
FET & 3x XPL HI on noctigon
Installed
4.3A tailcap
197kcd
464lux
Spring Bypass, traces beefed
4.8A
247kcd
515lux
257kcd @ 35ft converted back to 1m.
I got the parts together for my second RoMiSen RC-A8 mod., boost driver and Nichia 219C for CR123A. Next is to take it apart and shorten the pill.
Click for full size:
Flashlight designers should look at lighthouses and pottery.
这些谁设计的手电筒应该看灯塔，以及在陶器。
Fought my fet+1 most of the day. Took a break to bake some Convoys
Overhauled one of my first 3up X6’s and played around with GITD stuff applied to some optics,
This X6 had a glued Al-Heatsink, 3 badly dedomed 219B on a FET driver and additinal glass lens. Board was also glued down. I managed to force the board out. Heatsink was left in place but I drilled and tapped two holes into it to secure the board. Sanded down the 32mm board and soldered it under the new one. LEDs are 219B-V1 R9050 sw57, by the way. Sanded down the bezel a bit and now it’s a perfect fit without additional glass lens. While the optics are curing, I prepared a 105C based driver. It’s a dual channel 11+2 AMC7135 driver now, 4.67 A max, running BLF-A6 firmware
with BATTCHECK_VpT(EDIT: doesn’t work), 6- and 4-mode-groups, where in the 6-mode-group, 4 modes are running solely on the 2nd 2×7135-channel, in the 4-mode-group, 2 modes are 2nd channel only. Didn’t dare to touch the optics yet, hope they’ll turn out nice.PICS!!!
It is done when it is done
How my BLF Specials generally work, please read before asking Qs
The Q8, Exciting a groupbuy for a Premium BLF special high lumens soda can light!
The GT, A BLF special GIGA thrower
The FW3A, a TLF BLF special small, elegant, powerful triple
Lithium Ion safety 101 important read
Sorry grammarlovers, I am a real King Typo.
I too would like to see more pics of baked convoys.
I’m fine with throwing some Ultrafire cheapies in the oven, but I can’t bring myself to putting my convoys in there.
Yesterday I bypassed about 50 driver and tailcap springs. I had some free time.
50? Wow
I thought the Clnvous have HA3
But mine are very nice in grey and mat black no need to bake them (I use the gas flames much faster then heating the whole oven)
It is done when it is done
How my BLF Specials generally work, please read before asking Qs
The Q8, Exciting a groupbuy for a Premium BLF special high lumens soda can light!
The GT, A BLF special GIGA thrower
The FW3A, a TLF BLF special small, elegant, powerful triple
Lithium Ion safety 101 important read
Sorry grammarlovers, I am a real King Typo.
The white smudges on the C8 is thermal past.
I am super happy with the way they came out.
Right click and open in another tab to see larger photos.
I also baked a blue convoy shorty tube, but I cant find it.
Turned out greyish blue. At one point the C8 head was grey, I took it out and it went back to black. Then It went to far to orangebrowncopper
On flames it is easy to remove with pliers
I really like your results, like old copper.
It is done when it is done
How my BLF Specials generally work, please read before asking Qs
The Q8, Exciting a groupbuy for a Premium BLF special high lumens soda can light!
The GT, A BLF special GIGA thrower
The FW3A, a TLF BLF special small, elegant, powerful triple
Lithium Ion safety 101 important read
Sorry grammarlovers, I am a real King Typo.
I used a cookie sheet on top rack of oven. Would like to try torching some for some effects.
^^ On the previous page you can see my take on baking blue convoy tube, if you are stuck on blue/green tint you need more heat.
Olight i3s, Olight S1, Olight S Mini, JetBeam Jet-1, BLF 348, Astrolux S41S, UF SK-98, Convoy S2+ 3*XP-G2, Convoy S2+ 3*XPL, Convoy S2+ 219CT, Convoy M1, Convoy C8, Brinyte B158, Courui D01, Convoy L6, Noctigon M43
I might have to bake it some more. I would like to get to a grey color.
I did a complete mod. today. Using the driver I planned didn’t work out easy, so I used an old SK-68 clone driver with a new Nichia to up the output of a RoMiSen RC-A8 on CR123A.
Flashlight designers should look at lighthouses and pottery.
这些谁设计的手电筒应该看灯塔，以及在陶器。
From XP-G2 to XP-L HI 3D using the same copper PCB.
Resistor mod (R100) increased current from 1,8A to 2,9A.
Cooked in the oven for one hour.
Cool cooked job. What temp did you use ?
Did it go past orange before that color ?
I used 300ºC. (max temp)
No orange color. It turned from dark brown to light brown, without orange. Tactical ring was burned with a kitchen burner.
Thanks, I used more heat, less time.
Will try another Convoy soon.
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