BLF Kronos X5 mod x6 mod faq thread tailcaplight

That resistor is the main current limiting component in the tail-led circuitry, so it will not be that far from: double the resistor value -> double the battery drain time. (anyone not agree?)

I think Manker may have used 0805 for the LEDs and 0603 for the resistor.

For just dim enough to see and long lasting battery, look for a resistor in the 8k-12kohm range. That should give about a year on an 18650 if I remember correctly.

I replaced my tail switch board with one of PD68’s designs (Rev3), used 2x multicolor leds and a single 22K resistor. Also changed the bleeder on the driver to a 604 ohm bleeder. In daylight its hard to see, but in the dark the tailcap is perfectly well lit.

Can you you describe the advantage of changing the bleeder?

By the time this thread is through, I think you’ll need an index to keep track of all the different FAQ’s. Otherwise, it will take almost as long searching this thread as it would to sort the original thread.

A higher resistant bleeder will lower the parasitic current when the light is on, something negligable at the higher modes, but in moon mode there is 3 times as much current as without the bleeder, limiting the runtime on moon (in the X5) from a week to only 2 days.

The bleeder value can not be too high or it will affect the timing of the firmware, messing up the UI. But a higher resistor in the tail will allow a higher value for the bleeder without affecting the UI.

When I used the 604 ohm bleeder with 11K for the tail leds, the driver never switched off fully. Basically maintained mode memory. When I increased the tail led resistor to 22K, driver went back to normal.

were can we get a driver out of the manker godmes T01 to fit in the x5 or similar output driver off single aa

My stock resistor was 0805 size in my X6. I put in an 18k resistor in its place. Its now bright enough to be seen and doesn’t light up the room like it used to. The moded X6 on the left, the stock X5 on the right (just for comparison).
!!

Most of this was already covered in this thread, but I’ll paste my explanation here too so it doesn’t get lost in the other thread.

Thanks PilotDog! If I want to add an LED to the other side of the board, do I also have to add another resistor?

If Banggood/Manker used my Rev3 trace layout like they did with the prototypes, no you do not need to add a second resistor.

There’s a trace goi g under the switch to the other side, if you want to use the separate resistor pad you need to cut that trace.

I’d like to change the tailcap LED on a couple X5/X6 lights to another color and add a second LED. I’ll also switch to a 12k - 18k tailcap resistor to dim the output.

Should the replacement LEDs be of a certain Vf? I didn’t see mention of what voltage range the LEDs should be in.

Are some LED colors more/less affected by resistor values? I plan on trying green, amber, red, and white tailcap LEDs. Thanks!

Different colors have different Vf’s and also different apparent brightness due to eye/wavelength sensitivity.youll probably have to play with the resistor values if you want to use different colors but have them look the same and be the brightness you desire.

If someone out there is considering doing a little business modding tailcaps — I think a bunch of us are waiting for you.

I don’t know how well the tailcaps “lego” from one flashlight to the next (so I don’t know if it would work to do an exchange — send in one, get a modded one back promptly)
or whether each person’s tailcap would have to be modded and returned (guessing someone just picked from a bin until she got a tailcap that fit onto a tube — I’ve suspected they had fairly wide variability in the threads).

But dagnabbit, I’m never going to be able to solder at that teeny size, and I sure would like amber/yellow as a tailcap color.

Thanks for the tip, I was concerned that an incorrect Vf might alter the driver circuit.

I’ll experiment and report back.

You can have a look at Piloddogs tailcap led thread, a lot of people reported there findings in it so you can proabably reduce the trial and error to a minimum.
I will change my resistor to a lot bigger one in the next week, I am aiming for below 100uA.

Thanks to this thread, I removed the bleeder resistors and the tailcap ones on my X5’s! Thanks Werner…

I think the X5 is an awesome little light, and without the parasitic drain on the small 14500, will make for a excellent little light with decent run time on lower levels now.

Had a little time to play with my toys and the result is here…

Barely visible in daylight - just perfect.
Moved the one blue led from X5 to X6 for more even and uniform look. Both originally measured 0.6mA in tail. Now 0.16mA with blue leds and 0.24mA with amber/orange leds. Original 2kOhm resistor swapped with 10kOhm (one resistor for both leds).
Very happy with the outcome :beer: