Mine seems to measure about a half amp low (when measuring 10amps of current) but I’m not sure as I don’t have a calibrated reference. I’m fairly confident my 10ams current is 10 amps as 2 other devices I trust measure it the same. Is there some type of calibration we are supposed to follow with these? I see a button marked “zero”. I pressed that until it beeped while holding it in the air away from electrical devices.
EDIT: In case it matters, mine had the cell or cells installed and ready to run upon receipt.
Disclaimer: I’ve never operated one of these and mine is still in the mail. The zero is to combat stray magnetic fields. Zero it in place with no current flowing. Do not physically move anything while it’s in operation after it’s been zero’ed.
Disclaimer: I’ve never operated one of these and mine is still in the mail. The zero is to combat stray magnetic fields. Zero it in place with no current flowing. Do not physically move anything while it’s in operation after it’s been zero’ed.
Correct, and that zero-ing in position in the measuring set-up is really needed, can easily make half an amp difference.
For my emitter tests, the current used was always the current read-out of my the power supply as it measures within 0.1A of two other ways to measure current (DMM and 0.01 Ohm sense resistor). On my last led-test I used the clamp meter current instead because it gives an extra digit which makes it easier to set the current. The clamp meter reads consistently 0.1A less than my power supply from 0 to 8A, which is pretty ok I think. I have the feeling that my power supply is more wrong than my clamp meter, but that is just a feeling
When mine arrived, it didn‘t have any loose battery. So, I thought that the battery was missing, like I had read about buyers’ experiences elsewhere.
I picked a pair of Duracell 9V batteries at Home Depot for $8.48 (inconveniently located in a side aisle away from the main battery showcase that prominently featured a single Eveready 9V battery “on sale” for $10.23 :-/ ). Devious of them to try and market the more expensive battery!
When I got home and opened up the battery storage compartment I was surprised to find a generic 9V battery sitting there in a brand new cellophane wrapper.
I thought I had outwitted the folks at Home Depot, but the only person I ended up outwitting wss myself.
EDIT: Senior moment.
The item I was thinking about was my new 1330B luxmeter, not the Uni-T. The clamp-meter came with batteries installed and in working condition.
—
Rule 1-1 as it applies to life, take it as it comes.
When mine arrived, it didn‘t have any loose battery. So, I thought that the battery was missing, like I had read about buyers’ experiences elsewhere.
I picked a pair of Duracell 9V batteries at Home Depot for $8.48 (inconveniently located in a side aisle away from the main battery showcase that prominently featured a single Eveready 9V battery “on sale” for $10.23 >:-/ ). Devious of them to try and market the more expensive battery!
When I got home and opened up the battery storage compartment I was surprised to find a generic 9V battery sitting there in a brand new cellophane wrapper.
I thought I had outwitted the folks at Home Depot, but the only person I ended up outwitting wss myself.
My two came in recently. I’ve played with them some for measuring DC current and I’m happy. No surprise there, lots of other members have already been happy with theirs. I used them to compare the input(dc)/output(ac) currents from a couple of HID ballasts and they seemed to work nicely. Other (dc) current measurements have also been inline with my expectations.
I didn’t receive any batteries with mine so I used what I had on hand, Energizer Advanced Lithium.
Mine arrived; no batteries either, but I had some in a box. It works and I’m pleased.
This was the longest shipping interval I have run into though. Ordered Jan. 26, shipped Jan. 27. Strange thing occurred though. In late February the tracking number changed! That original # has disappeared from the tracking systems.
Mine arrived; no batteries either, but I had some in a box. It works and I’m pleased.
This was the longest shipping interval I have run into though. Ordered Jan. 26, shipped Jan. 27. Strange thing occurred though. In late February the tracking number changed! That original # has disappeared from the tracking systems.
Same thing happened with my order. I contacted BG asking why it was taking so long. They replied saying that they had to re-ship and gave me a new tracking number. It arrived a short time later. All is good now. $hit happens I guess..
Anyone else noticed some acting up with this clamp meter?
When I want to measure battery voltage I press the select button to go from AC to DC (which is also quite annoying since 99% of times I am dealing with DC so I have to switch from AC to DC setting every single time when using this meter), stuck the probes to (li ion) battery and it just displays OL (as overload), instead of changing to volts, it stays in mV (millivolts) and doesn’t want to move, only when I switch from DC to AC and then back from AC to DC it remembers that there are other measuring units beside millivolt…
Well, yes, this is kind of annoying. I wonder why they decided to start on AC when switched on ? My other DMMs with autorange start on DC when switched on.
Apart from that I´m pretty happy with this clamp-meter !
Hmm. So I finally made a little loop of copper wire. I tightly wound 4 strands of 14awg solid copper wire. The length of the loop/strand is about 4 inches and I covered the middle portion with heat shrink tube leaving maybe a quarter inch exposed on both ends.
I appear to be measuring exceptionally low. 1.9A on a 2.8A 105c driver. 2.3A on several different FET drivers with a high drain cells. Worse than my stock 22awg DMM leads.
Any thoughts? Would the heat shrink tube be interfering? 4× 14awg solid wires not sufficient? 4 inches too long of a loop?
@unknown – mine reads a little low compared to a fluke meter (.3 amps or so). I’m using a single 14 gauge solid copper wire about 4 inches loop with small copper buttons soldered on the ends. Are you using enough pressure to fully engage the driver spring?
—
If you don’t like what it looks like on the wall, take it outside.
I turned it off and on again (lol). Seems to be working decently well now. I’m getting a maximum 2.75A on a 2.8A driver, but it seems there’s some variation in my loop. I’ll get 2.6A, turn it off, back on, zero and 2.72A.
I checked an older xpg2 triple with a partially drained 30Q… 9.75A! I believe that’s the highest I’ve measured in a flashlight.
I should have mentioned that the .3 amp difference I measure is in a fet driver. Mine reads 2.72 in a 2.8 driver as well. All in all I think a clamp meter like this one is the best budget choice for this hobby.
The Fluke meter at my work cost them over 250 bucks Canadian.
—
If you don’t like what it looks like on the wall, take it outside.
Banggood now shows the camp meter back in stock, so I just placed my order.
The coupon code worked fine!
Thanks Freeme for all you efforts in making this group buy happen.
whopist
Mine seems to measure about a half amp low (when measuring 10amps of current) but I’m not sure as I don’t have a calibrated reference. I’m fairly confident my 10ams current is 10 amps as 2 other devices I trust measure it the same. Is there some type of calibration we are supposed to follow with these? I see a button marked “zero”. I pressed that until it beeped while holding it in the air away from electrical devices.
EDIT: In case it matters, mine had the cell or cells installed and ready to run upon receipt.
Disclaimer: I’ve never operated one of these and mine is still in the mail.
The zero is to combat stray magnetic fields. Zero it in place with no current flowing. Do not physically move anything while it’s in operation after it’s been zero’ed.
Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)
still looking forward to mine. Its on the boat, or in a plane.
Has anyone done a how to video?
I would like to watch up before it gets here.
Can i still get the code and the link for this GB ?
Sent.
Correct, and that zero-ing in position in the measuring set-up is really needed, can easily make half an amp difference.
For my emitter tests, the current used was always the current read-out of my the power supply as it measures within 0.1A of two other ways to measure current (DMM and 0.01 Ohm sense resistor). On my last led-test I used the clamp meter current instead because it gives an extra digit which makes it easier to set the current. The clamp meter reads consistently 0.1A less than my power supply from 0 to 8A, which is pretty ok I think. I have the feeling that my power supply is more wrong than my clamp meter, but that is just a feeling
link to djozz tests
Thanks wight and djozz. Will do that going forward.
I’d like to obtain purchase info please.
Thank you
Well, it seems to be a great meter! Witht the offset cleared it shows exacly the same readings as my Benning whitch is realy incredible!
Ordered yesterday, status shows shipped today.
I know it has not actually left China yet. But that’s fast boxing up.
I didn’t pay for tracking but status gave me a tracking Number. I guess Freeme arranged for free tracking. That’s nice.
Thanks Freeme
You will automatically receive free tracking when your order exceed certain sum.
When mine arrived, it didn‘t have any loose battery. So, I thought that the battery was missing, like I had read about buyers’ experiences elsewhere.
I picked a pair of Duracell 9V batteries at Home Depot for $8.48 (inconveniently located in a side aisle away from the main battery showcase that prominently featured a single Eveready 9V battery “on sale” for $10.23 :-/ ). Devious of them to try and market the more expensive battery!
When I got home and opened up the battery storage compartment I was surprised to find a generic 9V battery sitting there in a brand new cellophane wrapper.
I thought I had outwitted the folks at Home Depot, but the only person I ended up outwitting wss myself.
EDIT: Senior moment.
The item I was thinking about was my new 1330B luxmeter, not the Uni-T. The clamp-meter came with batteries installed and in working condition.
Rule 1-1 as it applies to life, take it as it comes.Meter runs on 2x AAA. Not 9V.
Everybody seems to get it with batteries. I didn´t. >:-#
It seems they pull off the batteries before shipping to Germany …
This clamp meter is a real winner on price-performance ratio !
No batteries with mine.
My two came in recently. I’ve played with them some for measuring DC current and I’m happy. No surprise there, lots of other members have already been happy with theirs. I used them to compare the input(dc)/output(ac) currents from a couple of HID ballasts and they seemed to work nicely. Other (dc) current measurements have also been inline with my expectations.
I didn’t receive any batteries with mine so I used what I had on hand, Energizer Advanced Lithium.
Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)
Mine arrived; no batteries either, but I had some in a box. It works and I’m pleased.
This was the longest shipping interval I have run into though. Ordered Jan. 26, shipped Jan. 27. Strange thing occurred though. In late February the tracking number changed! That original # has disappeared from the tracking systems.
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Same thing happened with my order. I contacted BG asking why it was taking so long. They replied saying that they had to re-ship and gave me a new tracking number. It arrived a short time later. All is good now. $hit happens I guess..
Can I get a code for this group buy?
May I get the code for this too, please?
Anyone else noticed some acting up with this clamp meter?
When I want to measure battery voltage I press the select button to go from AC to DC (which is also quite annoying since 99% of times I am dealing with DC so I have to switch from AC to DC setting every single time when using this meter), stuck the probes to (li ion) battery and it just displays OL (as overload), instead of changing to volts, it stays in mV (millivolts) and doesn’t want to move, only when I switch from DC to AC and then back from AC to DC it remembers that there are other measuring units beside millivolt…
I’ve only measured volts with mine once or twice, as a test. I didn’t notice that problem.
I agree, having to switch from AC to DC measurement every time I turn the meter on is annoying!
Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)
Well, yes, this is kind of annoying. I wonder why they decided to start on AC when switched on ? My other DMMs with autorange start on DC when switched on.
Apart from that I´m pretty happy with this clamp-meter !
Just noticed this thread..Is code still available ?
Thanx….
Hmm. So I finally made a little loop of copper wire. I tightly wound 4 strands of 14awg solid copper wire. The length of the loop/strand is about 4 inches and I covered the middle portion with heat shrink tube leaving maybe a quarter inch exposed on both ends.
I appear to be measuring exceptionally low. 1.9A on a 2.8A 105c driver. 2.3A on several different FET drivers with a high drain cells. Worse than my stock 22awg DMM leads.
Any thoughts? Would the heat shrink tube be interfering? 4× 14awg solid wires not sufficient? 4 inches too long of a loop?
I got mine here because it is fulfilled by Amazon and received it in a few days rather than wait a few weeks.
If you don’t like what it looks like on the wall, take it outside.
@unknown – mine reads a little low compared to a fluke meter (.3 amps or so). I’m using a single 14 gauge solid copper wire about 4 inches loop with small copper buttons soldered on the ends. Are you using enough pressure to fully engage the driver spring?
If you don’t like what it looks like on the wall, take it outside.
I turned it off and on again (lol). Seems to be working decently well now. I’m getting a maximum 2.75A on a 2.8A driver, but it seems there’s some variation in my loop. I’ll get 2.6A, turn it off, back on, zero and 2.72A.
I checked an older xpg2 triple with a partially drained 30Q… 9.75A! I believe that’s the highest I’ve measured in a flashlight.
I should have mentioned that the .3 amp difference I measure is in a fet driver. Mine reads 2.72 in a 2.8 driver as well. All in all I think a clamp meter like this one is the best budget choice for this hobby.
The Fluke meter at my work cost them over 250 bucks Canadian.
If you don’t like what it looks like on the wall, take it outside.
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