Overhauled one of my first 3up X6’s and played around with GITD stuff applied to some optics,
This X6 had a glued Al-Heatsink, 3 badly dedomed 219B on a FET driver and additinal glass lens. Board was also glued down. I managed to force the board out. Heatsink was left in place but I drilled and tapped two holes into it to secure the board. Sanded down the 32mm board and soldered it under the new one. LEDs are 219B-V1 R9050 sw57, by the way. Sanded down the bezel a bit and now it’s a perfect fit without additional glass lens. While the optics are curing, I prepared a 105C based driver. It’s a dual channel 11+2 AMC7135 driver now, 4.67 A max, running BLF-A6 firmware with BATTCHECK_VpT (EDIT: doesn’t work), 6- and 4-mode-groups, where in the 6-mode-group, 4 modes are running solely on the 2nd 2x7135-channel, in the 4-mode-group, 2 modes are 2nd channel only. Didn’t dare to touch the optics yet, hope they’ll turn out nice.
I thought the Clnvous have HA3
But mine are very nice in grey and mat black no need to bake them (I use the gas flames much faster then heating the whole oven)
I did a complete mod. today. Using the driver I planned didn’t work out easy, so I used an old SK-68 clone driver with a new Nichia to up the output of a RoMiSen RC-A8 on CR123A.
EDIT: Got it working now, BLF-A6 with BATTCHECK-VpT. TK could have done that in an instant I guess, just a green quest, but for a coding newb like me, it’s quite an achievement.
I did the RMM SRK driver swap. Now I have 7 nice even modes. First thru hole I’ve done. Got a Trustfire 12 led on/off only which I’ll put the old SRK driver into and at least have L/M and high…I hope. Still learning
Fitted a BLF A6 driver into an Ultrafire F13 using a couple of 16/22mm copper washers to make an adapter. Not pretty, but it works.
Now just trying to get my head around the UI.
One unforeseen problem: the spring on the A6 driver is about 7mm shorter than the original so now only protected batteries will work. Kinda defeats the object. DOH!