I might have to bake it some more. I would like to get to a grey color.
I did a complete mod. today. Using the driver I planned didn’t work out easy, so I used an old SK-68 clone driver with a new Nichia to up the output of a RoMiSen RC-A8 on CR123A.
From XP-G2 to XP-L HI 3D using the same copper PCB.
Resistor mod (R100) increased current from 1,8A to 2,9A.
Cooked in the oven for one hour.
Cool cooked job. What temp did you use ?
Did it go past orange before that color ?
I used 300ºC. (max temp)
No orange color. It turned from dark brown to light brown, without orange. Tactical ring was burned with a kitchen burner.
Thanks, I used more heat, less time.
Will try another Convoy soon.
Same temp and same time, in a cheep light. It took a gold finish.
300.000 Cd running a gas dedomed direct drived XP-G2 .
EDIT: Got it working now, BLF-A6 with BATTCHECK-VpT. TK could have done that in an instant I guess, just a green quest, but for a coding newb like me, it’s quite an achievement. 
Nice results… I will have to start baking my lights as well
I did the RMM SRK driver swap. Now I have 7 nice even modes. First thru hole I’ve done. Got a Trustfire 12 led on/off only which I’ll put the old SRK driver into and at least have L/M and high…I hope. Still learning
Fitted a BLF A6 driver into an Ultrafire F13 using a couple of 16/22mm copper washers to make an adapter. Not pretty, but it works.
Now just trying to get my head around the UI.
One unforeseen problem: the spring on the A6 driver is about 7mm shorter than the original so now only protected batteries will work. Kinda defeats the object. DOH!
Heh, I’ve gotten myself into the same situation before. 
I made a JAX mini C8 with a BLF A6 driver and a XM-L2 T6 4C on a Noctigon.
In the process of soldering the driver to the pill I also did my first hot dedome :-/ .
JAX C8 (left) BLF X5 Alu 3B (right).
The dedome tint is starting to grow on me, and it’s pulling 5,8 amps on a fresh Samsung 30Q.
Well not really a mod but I slopped mud on 6 - 17mm blf a6 Driver kits from RMM’s shop today…
Actually on second thought these are for modding some of my flashlights… :face_with_monocle:
With some advice from Randy of PflexPro I did a forward switch conversion on my Convoy C8
I have bought a bunch of 3000K 92CRI 2ndGen. Oslon Squares for two multi-emitter mods I want to do, but I wanted to see the tint before doing those. So today I did a test-mod replacing the cool white XM-L2 with one of these Squares in an Olight S15. I managed to scratch the reflector and by using a different centering piece (or because of the shape of the Oslon Square) the focus is not perfect. it turns out I dig the colour very much: there’s more yellow in it than the 3000K 80CRI XP-L Hi that I used recently in two mods and I like that: the XPL’s were also nice but just a bit over the top rosy. (yellow without enough red is horrible, yellow with enough red is very nice).
I must be the only one modding today, last mod was mine too ;-)
Ok, so I liked the led, today I made the triple: my shorty bare BLF-A6 (dedomed XP-L 5A led) had a non-descript yellow-ish low CRI just under 4000K tint, time for the triple Square 3000K 92CRI. The parts:
The result (how to draw an owl ;-) )
It was not all great:
-even though I used the stock lens over the optic, the o-ring kept popping out (when do the chinese learn to make a proper groove for the o-ring instead of a flat shelf?), finally I found a thin black o-ring from a sk68 clone that did the job fine.
-I fried a switch because I shorted the light at the driver spring because of an improper spring bypass, had to solder a new switch in (small Omten)
-the spacer was 1.5 mm too thick, so the head did not close fully, which would have been fine if not the threading is so loose (sloppy manufacturing) that the head pulls itself at a slight angle when tight :sick: . The only solution is disassemble and sand a mm off the spacer so that the head tightens over the rim. Someday I will do that :tired:
-I love my new 80W solder iron, I use it for ledwire-to-copper-board soldering, done in a second: it is a beast!
-It will have a lighted tailcap, for that I already put a 470 Ohm bleeder in the driver, but I'm out of PD68 6-led washers, ordered new ones from Oshpark :-)
But... it works, and works very well:
*On highest level 7: light output OTF 1420lm at start-up, 1250lm after 30 seconds, on a lila Efest 18350. Current at start-up is 11.5-12A, and 9A after 30 seconds. The efficiency on high is still 40lm/W which is not all that bad for a 3000K 92CRI hotrod.
*On level 3: light output OTF 40lm wit 166mA current, efficiency 60lm/W (my most efficient light is my Nitecore P12 neutral, on medium setting I measure 130lm/W, that is a low CRI XM-L2 reflector light with very efficient driver)
*and the light quality is warm yellow and nice, just as intended.
It took me a second to remember the how-to-draw-an-owl joke. delayed lol, heh.
What new 80W iron did you get?
Nice (albeit abbreviated) build pics. The numbers sound nice too.
Thanks 
, the solder iron is a 80W Antex bought on Ebay, it is so hot that if you melt a blob of solder on the (massive) ‘tip’, it forms an thick oxide layer over it in a fraction of a second.
I do not have a solder station but have a separate 18W, 25W and now 80W solder iron for different uses.
I might have to pick up a 80W iron, my adjustable can’t quite handle 18awg on copper glued to a heatsink. I managed to make it work, but man it’s probably the ugliest solder job I’ve done.