All sold out: ReyLight Custom,Lumintop Tool AAA Copper. (Driver available)

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Northernlights
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Thank you for contacting me and getting things resolved Rey.

timbo114
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WWEFANS wrote:

Looks like a AAA.   All the people are going to have a holiday for Chinese New Year, maybe in late Feb, we can do a GB on this one.

Edit: Shame there is no slot for any trit.

I’m definitely IN for the GB on this one.

And Rey … the threads on my Copper tool are THE BEST smoooothest threads of any copper light that I own – and I own many.
ReyLight Tool = QUALITY

ReyLight
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I’m working on the Ti AAA now, will post it soon, pls check the forum within 24 hours.

Gunga
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Please use the same circuit as the copper version! L-m-h!

ReyLight
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Gunga wrote:
Please use the same circuit as the copper version! L-m-h!

yes sir.

ToyKeeper
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WWEFANS wrote:
I’m working on the Ti AAA now, will post it soon, pls check the forum within 24 hours.

FWIW, it might help if you link your old threads to your new ones. Smile

Here is the Ti AAA thread:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/44996

ReyLight
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ToyKeeper wrote:
WWEFANS wrote:
I’m working on the Ti AAA now, will post it soon, pls check the forum within 24 hours.

FWIW, it might help if you link your old threads to your new ones. Smile

Here is the Ti AAA thread:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/44996

Thank you for the link. Smile

LSX
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Rather than starting a new thread, has anyone had a problem trying to remove the pill out of the Copper Tool?

My aluminium one came out very easily just with some tweezers, but I have been trying for about an hour and can’t get the one out of my copper tool. The driver just twisted in the pill so I removed that and am trying to undo it by putting two allen key drivers in the wire holes on the emitter shelf and putting a screw driver between the two and twisting and it is not moving at all. Have tried heating it with a blow torch and still no luck.

They didn’t glue these ones for some reason did they?

djozz
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I just checked, mine (from the group buy) is not glued and came out effortlessly by placing tweezers in the two holes of the driver. I’m sorry for you to have a stuck pill Sad

LSX
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Damn, thanks for the confirmation Djozz.

I was only going to mod 1 of the 3 I have here and I bet I have chosen the only one with a stuck pill! Just my luck!

jon_slider
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djozz wrote:
I just checked, mine (from the group buy)

djozz, I sent you a private message on March 9…
asking is The Rey Light copper tool Nichia 219b, 4000K or 4500k?

LSX wrote:
I was only going to mod

mod to what? curious

djozz
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Sorry, because of your question I was not sure anymore and I read it at work where I had no other flashlights to compare the tint. I just checked and it seems like Rey’s copper Tool is 4000K to me, not 4500K.

jon_slider
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djozz wrote:
it seems like Rey’s copper Tool is 4000K to me, not 4500K.

Thank you for your opinion Smile
Has anyone found an actual test of the N219 in the ReyLight Tool to know for sure if it is 4000k? or 4500k?

LSX
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jon_slider wrote:
LSX wrote:
I was only going to mod

mod to what? curious

XP-L HI with a FET driver and some extra copper in the pill.

malkoff junkie
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Good question.

jon_slider wrote:
djozz wrote:
it seems like Rey’s copper Tool is 4000K to me, not 4500K.

Thank you for your opinion Smile
Has anyone found an actual test of the N219 in the ReyLight Tool to know for sure if it is 4000k? or 4500k?

Malkoff !

jon_slider
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hcri wrote:
Lumitop Tool Cu AAA Nichia 219b v1 4000k 93cri Pocket Light

I also got the impression somewhere that the Tool is using a 4000K LED, but, on page one of this thread it contradicts that.

If anyone here has both a Lumintop Nichia light such as the Tool ReyLight, or Worm, AND and Astrolux A01 or Manker, I would be interested in seeing a side by side beamshot to attempt to discern whether the nominal CCT specification of the Lumintops is 4000K or 4500K.

We have a test of an Astrolux w Nichia, showing 3940k 91CRI

I wish we had similar test data for one of the Nichia being used in the Lumintops

emarkd
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I don’t know if this is helpful or not, but here’s a beamshot comparison between the copper Reylight tool and a custom triple of mine that’s built using Nichia 219b SW45 D220 emitters. SW45s (4500K) on the left, Reylight on the right:

I don’t have a pure white surface handy. That one is kind of a creamy off-white. Plus these are very different lights with different output levels, so honestly the image isn’t terribly accurate. But to my eyes, and hopefully you can see it in the image, the Reylight is definitely warmer than the SW45s I have. So I would agree – 4000K emitters in the Reylight. I don’t mind that myself. I like warm emitters, especially warm Nichias, but I don’t think its what it was claimed to be.

jon_slider
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emarkd wrote:
I don’t know if this is helpful or not, but here’s a beamshot comparison between the copper Reylight tool and a custom triple of mine that’s built using Nichia 219b SW45 D220 emitters. SW45s (4500K) on the left, Reylight on the right:

I don’t have a pure white surface handy. That one is kind of a creamy off-white. Plus these are very different lights with different output levels, so honestly the image isn’t terribly accurate. But to my eyes, and hopefully you can see it in the image, the Reylight is definitely warmer than the SW45s I have. So I would agree – 4000K emitters in the Reylight. I don’t mind that myself. I like warm emitters, especially warm Nichias, but I don’t think its what it was claimed to be.

Thank You!
So far we have some indication that the Rey Light N219 MIGHT be the same 4000K as the N219 in the Astrolux A01
fwiw, I LIKE my N219 Rey Light very much, and if its 4000K thats fine with me. And yes, I agree it can be hard to get a good comparison from lights with different brightness levels.

fwiw, here is a technique Im finding relatively useful for beamshots.. a piece of printer paper folded at 90 degrees on a table up against a box. Here is my Nichia ReyLight on the left, and my Nichia Worm on the right. I see a difference in tint, but I dont think its a difference in CCT. Though I still hope someone can give an instrument based data point on the ReyLight, to help confirm the CCT. This photo is both lights on their High mode, which have the same 80 Lumens spec. Note also that my photos are just iPhone 5 with automatic white balance. Useful only for comparing the two beams in the photo relative to each other.

Tom E
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Post #274, Rey says:

Just get the answer. It is: NVSL219B-VI SW40D220L2R9050, and according to the Nichia spec here, SW40 is in the range of 3710K to 4260K. So from Rey's info and djozz's good judgment (others too), 4000K is about right, I would think?

I got mine apart easy with a SS tweezer as well. Look'n at the loose fitting alum MCPCB makes me think I should upgrade to a copper DTP, maybe a 219C while I'm doing it.

I've been really lik'n carrying this light. Very bright and great tint on a EFEST 10440. This is what I just measured on a fresh 4.19v EFEST (DMM tail reading, PVC light box):

   Lo: 0.04A  -  6 lumens

Med:   1.0A  -  180-173 lumens (start-30 secs)

    Hi:   2.0A  -  289-265 lumens (start-30 secs)

 

jon_slider
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Tom E wrote:
Post #274, Rey says:

Just get the answer. It is: NVSL219B-VI SW40D220L2R9050, and according to the Nichia spec here (link is external), SW40 is in the range of 3710K to 4260K. So from Rey’s info and djozz’s good judgment (others too), 4000K is about right, I would think?

Thank You
In that case, I believe Lumintop and Astrolux A01 are using the same 4000K Nichia

so here is the spectrograph that I think applies to our Tools, courtesy of maukka in this thread

malkoff junkie
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Is there any good neck lanyard for this copper tool please ?.
Something that could compliment the copper.
Thanks.

Malkoff !

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