Jaxman E2 measurements (Nichia 219B, bargain high CRI 18650)

Everything that fits the Convoy S2 (or S2+ with the metal switch), will work with the Jaxman. For example this one or this from Simon’s shop

Excellent review. Thanks for posting

Excellent review. I have both E2 and mini C8 (the 4000K versions) from Fasttech and I can confirm that the visually perceived quality of light is simply superb. The AR coating is of good quality and it is vastly superior to the one used by EagTac on their Nichia 219 lights, like D25A or D25LC2. The mini C8 starts at high, that is the only difference in UI. My only point of concern is the use of four 7135 on the E2, which small head cannot efficiently dissipate the heat generated at high, and there is no timer step-down and of course no thermal sensor.

I have a long rant about AR coating and what it does to white light… and how I’d much rather have a cheap, plain piece of glass. But for now, can you tell if the lens makes the light any different than it looks with no lens? AR coating gives my D25A-219 a distinct blue halo: (and a warm green beam, but that’s not visible here)

Does the lens change the color of things reflected in it at an angle? For example:

Does the E2 or C8 lens change the color of white fabric if rested directly on top, like the AR-coated lens on the left here, or does it look like the bare glass on the right?

I’m just a little worried, since every AR-coated lens I’ve ever seen has defeated the point of high-CRI emitters.

About AR coatings: it must be clear that you cannot expect a flashlight to have them at the same level as pro-grade photographic filters like B+W MRC or Kenko Zeta. But those implemented by EagTac are simply outstandingly bad. They produce strong blue reflections of light sources. Those on Jaxman lights produce weak violet reflections, similar to L3 Illumination L10 with Nichias, or the more recent Lumintop worms with Nichias. The best AR coatings I have encountered so far in flashlights is on the Preons 2 with Nichias, which unfortunately are not available any more. Flashlight with Hi Cri LED but bad AR coating cannot be considered as Hi Cri flashlight. The Preons 2 with Nichias from Illumn.com are considered the best available flashlights for medical profession for good reason.

Has someone more Details which driver they used? Maybe a picture?

Brightless in Hi in C8 is same as in E2 ?
C8 also overheated in Hi ?

I hope the flashlight companies will understand this sometime soon.

Using bare glass isn’t such a bad thing. I mean, yeah, on a thrower you probably want a good AR coating (or better glass) to increase throw a little. But on EDC lights the AR coating doesn’t really provide any meaningful benefit. It just increases costs and decreases beam quality.

another great review and thread.
i would like to ask where to buy the same hosts that convoy and jaxman are using.
it appears they use the same hosts
does anybody know ?

To Evgeniy,

The current consumption on high on both lights is the same (around 1550mA according to my UT210E). The subjectively perceived total light output is also the same. Due to much larger reflector the hotspot on the mini C8 is much more tight, so it is a better thrower, but less suitable for short-range EDC. I must admit that ergonomics of the mini C8 is simply superb - it fits my hand like a glove.
Regarding the heat dissipation: I only measured the E2, and after 10 minutes on high its head heats up 30 degrees C over ambient (in my case from 18 to 48 degrees C). At that stage I switched it off to prevent possible damage. I did not measured the mini C8 (yet), but its head is much larger and much more massive, with developed ribs, so my hope is that when holding it in hand it will not overheat.

[Off topic]
Ehhm, I have quite a few doctors among my acquaintances (from house doctors to hospital specialists), and have asked them all about what light they use and require for examinations, even offered one of them an S2 with high CRI Nichia 219A to try out. The consensus, at least among this small sample of people, is that they don’t care less and use whatever (scary blue no CRI 5mm led) light is at hand. Skill and experience easily compensates for the lack of colour rendering.

The high CRI Nichia light is currently employed by this doctor as a reading light in bed.

was thinking the same.
Just that little more cri will save their life.
ummm, no.
I have AR lenses on all my hcri lights, and it’s something that really doesn’t cross over in my mind.

Here’s the bastard child of Jaxman E2 and a blue Convoy S2+ with a 18350 battery tube and pocket clip from Simon. I prefer the Convoy’s metal switch. Astrolux S1 with the 18350 tube for comparison.

thanks.
May be, new, more efficient (dc-dc, buck) driver will work better, than linear, 4x7135-based . 10-15% less current from battery, less heat.

I’ve asked doctors too, and had similar results. Except this one guy, who insists on only doing examinations with a gigantic old incandescent flashlight, usually held by one of his assistants.

I offered him my L3 L10-219, dramatically smaller with more output and runtime and a smoother beam, but he didn’t want it. And when I looked at what the doctor was seeing, I found that the super-warm incan tint actually showed some things under the skin better.

sounds like a P60 with a lower output ican drop in and 18650 might work for him…

Finally got my neutral white (5700k) Jaxman E2 in today, and I find its tint to be astounding.

I have a wealth of other high CRI flashlights to compare it to, and I don’t think any are close to the E2’s Nichia high color temperature 219B. The differences are especially apparent with wood tones.

My L3 Illumination’s L11C with Nichia 219B at 4500k looks dirty and orange in comparison, and doesn’t differentiate greens from browns as well as the Jaxman E2, and flesh tones look more copper-tanned than pinky-flesh as it would under the sun.

My Zebralight SC62D with Phillips Luxeon T at 5000k was previously my sunlight mimicker, but it comes off looking very green in comparison to the Jaxman E2. It still looks decently white next to the purer E2, though.

My Zebralight H600FD with XML2 sporting the easywhite technology at 5000k (closer to 4800k) also looks very yellow/green in comparison, not being able to differentiate browns from greens as well and other colors, as everything is veiled with a yellow tone.

Naturally, people looking for a more incandescent look with high color rendering can still loom in the 3-4.5k range— the likes of which the 4500k 219B is still good at doing. Also, those who found the Luxeon T of the SC62D too cool in the spill will undoubtedly find the spill of the E2 neutral white to be even cooler and uninviting. The spill of the neutral white E2 is also my only potential gripe about its tint. I wish it was closer to the 5400k of the hotspot, which I find to be perfectly white. Needless to say, the Jaxman E2 is a must buy for those looking for the highest amount of color delineation and rendering ability from their light as if it were sunlight itself.

As far as build quality and feel, I find the light to be good enough. I wish the reverse clicky was a bit taller, but that’s a nitpick. I also wish I could skip the strobe modes as well, but I’m glad it has the very inviting standard reverse clicky interface, where it always starts at low and subsequent half-presses up the output levels.

I can’t tell that there’s any PWM with the low and medium modes at all, so I find the PWM on this light all but a moot point— in my experience anyways.

Hi guys, what is the difference in CRI on the 4000K version vs 5700? anyone compared them both? i love 4000K tint, and ~ 5500 not so much, would i lose quality with the warmer tint as some other users where saying?

I have 219b CRI 4000K and I love it! 5700K is to bright for my liking.

Hi dude, thanks for the answer. Brightness is not a problem for me, if you put them side by side, which one offer better color rendering?