The new astrolux s1 may must have gotten a kronos x6 switch installed! Too bad it’s screwing with the offtime. You could get a clear boot and have a lit tailcap!
Wrong part in the wrong host, maybe even a whole batch. I can’t quite explain it politely, but it seems exemplary. It’s like the past year in a nutshell.
I agree wholeheartedly with your gently expressed sentiment, but I think you meant to use one or more of the several antonyms for the word, rather precisely not exemplary
Here is a pic after I removed the resistor
Thanks, but exemplary was precisely the word I was looking for. It’s a shining example… literally. A small part which illustrates the whole, serving to warn others. Archetypal, cautionary, a small but representative bit of the pattern.
It’s not necessarily something which should be imitated, as one meaning of the word implies, but it probably will be imitated (and already has, with similar unintended results).
:GRADE: 
Just thought I’d try and ask here. Disclaimer: Please feel free to say “you’re in the wrong place” or something of the equivalent. I’ve done some looking around but to no real avail….maybe my search skills or “correct terminology” ignorance are getting in the way.
I have an Astrolux S13D tint I bought after following some posts on the original BLF A6 and waiting around long enough to see the S1 come available with the short tube. I have 2 questions to start. Firstly, my sample of the S1 has what I would call 4 or 5 “rings” in the beam. There’s a decent hotspot in the middle but what I would call a fairly poor transition outside of that with several rings visible. I have a Nitecore EA11 I was kinda hoping this would replace (with short tube) but it’s beam pattern transition is much smoother and usable (IMHO) as far as the spill is concerned for everyday use.
1. Is there any simple way to improve the beam pattern? Different reflector drop-in? (have to admit not 100% sure what to look for)
2. What exactly does the TIR lens referenced in the referenced in the first post accomplish? I tried researching…but not sure still.
If anybody has links to specific parts and/or explanation as to what those parts would accomplish, it would be awesome.
Thanks in advance for any help!
Just another moderate flashaholic (but not a modder……yet)
Did you get a smooth reflector? These are supposed to come with an orange-peel reflector, because smooth reflectors get ringy.
A different reflector is likely to help, or a TIR optic, or you could just put some “DC Fix” on the lens to spread out the beam. That last option will make it much more floody though.
I haven’t tried the linked TIR lens, but from what I recall I think it’s maybe supposed to increase throw? Tighter hotspot? I also haven’t looked for other compatible reflectors… so I’m probably not much help. I usually just put DC Fix on everything except throwers.
It is orange-peel but not quite as pronounced as my Nitecore. I see by some quick searching that DC fix is quite popular (although I don’t know if the Tim Allen in me can let the few extra lumens go ). Even saw one of your threads with posts from SC52 comparison with and without. May look into the other options too. Do you have a particular recommendation of where to get the DC fix from or a particular brand/style? Or just google and get?
Thank you very much for the quick reply! I feel honored to hear back from the great Toykeeper. 
I have read where the use of a paper clip will fix the gap in the tail section until a new tube can be shipped. It’s nice to have a working light in the meantime.
Have there been any posts saying it was the tail cap and not the tube? I just received some more A6’s with one not working and finally isolated it to the tail cap. After testing with the multimeter to confirm it wasn’t the switch, I then tried it on other A6’s with the same results, the tubes are fine but not the 1 tail cap.
I’m just wondering if this is an isolated case or the expected occasional hiccup that occurs.
I was checking thread depth very crudely with a small flat head screw driver after I had more than one a6. I seem to remember the issues were with the tail cap and not the tube. I was trying to Lego my bare with my anodized. So compare thread lengths male and female. and see what you come up with. But imho it’s really how far the retaining ring gets threaded down vs tube length.
If I recall correctly, it’s easy to get from the manufacturer in Germany, if you’re near there. I just got some from Amazon, I think. Ebay might be good too, or there are some forum members who sell it in pieces smaller than a full roll.
The “sand” variety is probably what you want. It’s still somewhat coarse though, so it’s not as nice as a frosted lens or a frosted optic. The artifacts aren’t usually visible, but if you rotate the light around its beam axis it’ll be clear that some areas are brighter than others.
If I could find a good source of arbitrary-sized glass lenses with one side frosted and no AR coating, … um, well, I can’t say it’d be life-changing, but it’d at least be pretty cool.
At first I thought the same but decided the tube end actually contacts the tailcap itself and not the retaining ring. At least I “think” I am correct O:-)
A paper clip from the end of the tube to B-. If it works then the problem is in the tail cap, either a loose switch retainer, a bad switch, or, as with another post, the wrong switch pcb was installed. Pre amounted switches are available from Fastech and sometimes MtnE. If the paper clip trick doesn’t work the the problem is in the head.
Oh ya! I forgot about the “shelf” in there. It’s the head where the retaining ring touches the tube. Either way I’m thinking that’s the part Manker cut too deep. I mentioned in this thread long ago that my bare tail cap wouldn’t make contact with an anodized tube end when trying to Lego. And had my bare been anodized it would have been doa.
It’s funny how minute the gap is between the tube and the shelf that renders it non-functional. I took a length of .015 silver solder and laid it around the shelf similar to the temporary paperclip fix, and it worked fine. However, the solder disintegrated after the first removal of the tail cap. It’s not a permanent fix for sure but confirmed the contact problem. Waiting to hear back from BG about it.
hallo.i try to open this flashlite.i unscrewed the ring over the driver.but how to take out the driver?is it possible?
i there any glue?
The driver has wires soldered to the led board.
friends,please,how to do the memory ON/OFF? i cant help my self…