I´ve been looking at that exact model many times because it uses the 3*AA in series. A perfect thing to mod and then give to non flashaholics (sleepers I call them). But I´m not home for cristmas this year and all the people in the family goes " lets drop the gifts this year shall we" so I´ve let it pass.
When I see how your progress goes I´ll know for sure if its something I´ll do another time. I´ve got family that I´m sure would love such a light :-) Its got a nice format ( I think) for something you have next to the door or in the window sill and just pick it up when you need to locate the dog/dropped keys/where the dog dropped the keys :-)
I look forward to seeing the progress. There are quite few people who have build XML Ultrafire MCU-C88s (3xAA) but I've never even seen this light. I like it.
I have to agree that I like the 3AA "fat" format as well. I'm not keen on the long & skinny. I also would like to see 3 AA's instead of the more commonly seen 3 AAA's. Now just make it capable to run on 3 AA NiMh's or 1 32600 lithium ion (or sleeved 26650 or 32650) and that would be great! Watching with anticipation! Definitely want to see the parts list /
I too have an order coming from DX, as well as one from KD. The DX parts will be for my very first mod and I'm excited!
Garry
BTW - Is that manufacturer rating of "35 minutes" runtime on the stock light for real??? That seems rediculous! Is that emitter that inefficient?
Don't trust any specs on Chinese budget lights.... is a good rule of thumb. I am interested in these experiments, because I also own the Saik SA-305. I have never gotten around to install the warm white XM-L T3 20 mm star, that lies around here somewhere. I think that the hollow aluminum pill is not suited for hi-amp drivers. You will have to pot it, or something like that.
I understand not to trust specs on the Chinese budget lights, but it's usually the other way around, right? Usually overstated, not understated! (Sorry if I'm pulling this thread off topic.)
@ Vectrex - Yes, the stock parts are junk and not suited to high amp drivers or LEDs. Part of the solution will be the reflector change. The stock reflector is somewhere around 30mm in length (I am guessing), so the replacement will have to be signifigantly shorter, to give room for a much larger (deeper) Heat Sink. I am really hoping that I can just go direct instead of using the driver. Direct is so much simpler and if it was a P7 I wouldn't even be concerned about Vf.
@ Essexman - I may have to replace the stock switch. I don't really like those chinese clicky switches, but I will have to look at it some. There are some viable replacements that would work.
Glad you're working out the details for me because I wasn't thinking it'd need a shorter reflector. Before/after beamshots would be great;)
I'm interested in lens dimensions too. I can see myself camping w/ one of these in each back pocket - one floody, the other w/ http://www.dealextreme.com/p/50mm-18mm-2-80-degree-glass-optics-12834
edit:i suspect the emitter would be closer than focal length:(
Serial/Parallel battery circuit (towards the bottom of the page). I like these circuits for using AA batteries in 4D-6D Mag-lites, as you get more voltage and more amperage by making a series/parallel battery pack.
The problem with modding the c-88 is lots of people like it .. just like it is .
the Saik being 1/2 the price may be twice as hard to mod ... but who says that's not fun too.
First thing i'd do is fill that dang hole with copper ..I have a cheap old light I just pressed a pill into a hollow pill like that ...I had a pill that looked like it would fit .....I made it fit :)
Watching with interest! Old Lumens-a man after my own heart! No rich guy stuff here either. All hand tools, some of them pretty rickety. But the rewards are great!