I believe this test will give a good representative value of actual mileage we get out of these switches. Well thought out! Thank you for doing the test!!
What equipment and flashlight are you using that is giving you a 21 amp reading? And at what voltage?
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Though I have zero experience in any of this I was thinking 4 cycles a second seemed a bit extreme and might introduce variables that could hinder getting real world info.
I have seen this here somewhere before with a rotating servo. I think scaru did it with the custom switches or so.
You should really test the omten switches these are really good and also very affordable.
In the original post, I said a cycle was one click (either on or off)…I’m not sure if this the right, but that’s what I’m calling it. Each second will consist of two ‘ons’ and two ‘offs’. I know this will be very hard on the switch, but it allows each test run to complete in around 2 hours. Also, the playing field is level…all switches tested will have the same rate, so it should be a good comparative analysis. If I’m testing 2 each of 5 switches, that will be about 20 hours total testing, plus several hours setup.
I will video it.
Aha
That video promesis to be good!
And well you know now that your choosen clicks per second can be done by humans, though two hours requires training lol
the best would be if you could do a parallel test of some switches to reduce the time you are watching the clicking.
I don’t know if you have already built your test rig, but you might consider using a motor with a cam to activate the switch. Solenoids have a tendency to move very quickly and you may wind up breaking the plastic portion of the switch with the constant hammering rather than testing the electrical characteristics. It might be easier to build as well.
The light meter will be watching for me…I’m sure I will hear something different if a switch fails mechanically.
If it fails mechanically or electrically, the output graph will tell the tale.
It’s always going to be more difficult subjecting any product to an accelerated test of real life conditions when an operation of the switch and another one so quickly will have an accumultive effect with a build up of heat.
In real life you could operate the switch a number of times very quickly to cycle through the modes and at other times it might just be on or off minutes apart, it’s not easy to replicate but subjecting it to the worst conditions possible will definitely be a good test.
I’m looking forward to seeing what happens. 
Let’s take a vote.
I believe that fast cycling at 5A will represent normal cycling at higher amps.
I am a little concerned about 4 clicks per second along with 5A may be too destructive.
Everyone let me know what you think.
Should the current be set lower?
Should the clicks be set slower?
Will this current and click rate cause all of the switches to fail early? An early electrical failure will not give a good representation to the mechanical ‘latching’ portion of the switch.
Should we expect more than 20,000 clicks?
All switches will be ‘playing on the same field’, so I still think the better switches will survive longer, but I don’t want to fry them with only a few hundred clicks.
Give numbers with your vote, so I can base the test on popular opinion.
Reply with something like ‘4A with 2 clicks per second’ (I really don’t want to go slower than 2 clicks per second)
Then, if applicable, test one of the switches that did survive until they enter failure mode. Multiply that number by 1.5, that will give you actual life rating of the switch. Or, what an actual user would expect to see before failure mode.
I wouldn’t set the current lower, infact I would set it higher than 5A.
8,9 or 10A would be good as that’s what they could see in a modded light. If you run the test at 4A or 5A we’ll still be left wondering what they’re capable of when they’re really pushed.
Two clicks a second is probably the speed you could operate the switch yourself so I think that’s good.
If the overall time of the test is a concern as you’re going to have to observe it then there’s nothing to stop you from from running it for 1/2, 1, or 2 hour’s, then letting them cool down and then continuing the test the next day. I don’t think it’s important to have a continuous test without any pauses.
I have a couple extra Omten 1288 lying around. You’re welcome to one if you’d like it for testing. Just PM me your info, and I’ll ship it out.
There have been switch-failures with the hotrods that we are building. And without these type of tests we would still worship the McClicky and never have known how good our ultra-cheap and simple Omten switches actually were, even at absurd currents. Tests help getting the myths out of the air.
The small white Convoy switch is an Omten 1288
If RMM’s black Omten 1288 is the same as the ‘small white Omten’ found in Convoys, then I have plenty of those and already have them listed in the ‘switches to be tested’.
I think the real value of this test is not in trying to find any ‘absolute’ reliability numbers, but in simply comparing switches A, B, C, D, etc. to each other. As long as they are all going to get the same treatment, the comparison should be valid. As for the reason, pflexpro is a flashlight modder/builder/seller. He has an interest in making the best possible product by using the best components within his reach. So, the comparative testing is going to help him know what to use, and will help all our BLF modders as well when he shares the info.
Thanks, pflexpro, for taking the time to not only do this test, but to share it with us!
Ahh, okay, I guess I didn’t realize that… thanks PD. and, never mind pflexpro! 