I think there are enough tests here and at CPF that will show what I meant.
What do you mean by "buy first generation eneloop made back in 2009"?
In Japan its very hard to find anything older than 4th generation eneloops, and in Holland I havent seen them anywhere for sale yet (in a street store). And in 2009 we got 2nd gen cells.
They just confirm the 70% energy left after 10 years, i.e. nothing about the full capacity of the battery, that must be at least 70%, but as know from other testers it is larger.
Unfortunately, these terms always get mixed up. Almost everywhere.
Capacity (Ah) (more exactly: discharge capacity) is how much charge a battery can hold. Like the capacity of a bucket.
Charge (Ah) is how much is actually inside, i.e. how many Ah you can draw from it until it's empty.
Energy (Wh) is, well, energy. Similar to charge, but voltage also taken into account.
If a 2000mAh/2400mWh battery after 10 years has 70% capacity left, it is degraded to a 1400mAh battery.
If it has 70% charge left, then there are still 1400mAh inside, but it could still be a full capacity 2000mAh battery (i.e. one can recharge it an then discharge 2000mAh).
If it has 70% energy left, this means 2400mWh x 0.7 = 1680mWh energy. It says nothing about charge or capacity.
Hello, I purchased these batteries from ebay from the vendor named shopgl, it came in a battery box, not in retail package. I would like to know if they look like genuine eneloops or do they look fake? There is no crown symbol on the batteries. The white line is not present in the batteries, it’s just overexposure of the picture.
They came with a voltage of about 1.35v, the date codes are 15-07 in one, and 15-10 in the other 3. The xtar vc4 charger reports that it charged 698, 895, 925 and 664mAh before termination (I think those numbers are not very reliable). I’m having some issues with the amperimeter mode in my DMM so i can’t test reliably their discharge rate at the moment.
I am not a battery expert. Your batteries look like mine. The positive end with the button is light grey, off white on mine. The latest version of Eneloops do not have a crown symbol printed on the AA size. Sounds like your Eneloops were partially discharged when you charged them hence the low amp reading.
Thank you for responding. I just wanted a quick visual check, so in the case they were fake I would know what to expect of them, as the thread suggested they would have a crown. I already had some eneloops from a 10AA/4AAA pack from Amazon , but as they are a color edition rather than the clear one I could not compare them directly (except in size, weight and voltage).
I believe they are genuine now.
The only lsd battery that is somewhat available locally appears to be the Sony Energy, I don’t think the other locally available batteries (mainly Philips Multilife and budget chinese brands) are lsd.
Just picked up the Costco pack for $30. I’ve read that they’re cheaper than that sometimes, but not too bad for 8 AA, 4 AAA, 2C holders, 2D holders and a charger.
Hello and oofff…had half of the 17 pages and am totally confused. Eneloop standard, pro, lite, special….can someone from you experts just throw a model name at me which I can take to my shopping?
I was told I need the white ones (as they are more cold resistant), new and best quality (I grasped this would be japanese), otherwise simple standard, no chocolate or glitter, just batteries.
Just buy regular Eneloops, preferably made in Japan (which will be almost everywhere). They are sold as 2000 mAh (1900 mAh minimum) capacity for AA, or 800 mAh (750 mAh minimum) for AAA. They’ll also say they’re rated for 2100 cycles. Costco carries these, as do lots of places on-line.
There are two other categories of Eneloops. “Pro”, which has higher capacity but lower cycles, and “Lite” which has lower capacity but more cycles. Don’t get those, unless you have a specific need for them.
There are many different generations of Eneloops, but I think the only ones sold now are the latest, so forget about all the other stuff. Some other brands may be rebadged Eneloops, and you can save a bit of money if you know for sure, but if you don’t want the hassle just get real Eneloops.
I disagree on this statement, unless youre discharging your batteries every day or very other day, Pro’s are better choice(if they have better mah/$ ratio depending on their current price and they physically fit into device) due to their higher capacity.
Good luck wearing out 500 cycles on Pro’s if you use them once in a while and not drain them once per day ;)!
There are some reports that the Pros deteriorate quicker under extremely harsh conditions. I don’t have the source but I read it somewhere, possibly here or on CPF. Under more tepid conditions, all types should perform well.
You pay more for Pros but that extra 20% capacity is probably worth it when the task at hand calls for it. That’s for the AA. I don’t think the AAA Pros’ teeny extra capacity is worth it though.
I have been eyeing Fujitsu pre-charged these days. Much better assurance that they come from FDK than, ironically, eneloops itself. Panasonic pulled a fast one thinking they can fool consumers by calling different batteries ‘eneloop’ and hoping nobody notices. For that, they are slowly losing my business.
Unless and until Panasonic starts calling the non-FDK eneloops something else, I’m looking more at Fujitsu, and even the new IKEA Ladda.
I bought 8 Fujitsu’s 2550mAh batteries the other week, sitting on my desk and being broken in with C9000, all made in Japan :sunglasses: !
My battery usage is not as harsh and not as frequent, so I rather stock up on higher capacity and carry less batteries with me, look any way you want at it, but for flashlight addicts 0.55-0.65Ah is quite a big difference which equals to 1/4 up to 1/3 of regular Eneloops capacity.
