TrustFire TR-A9 (where available - FastTech says in stock if you believe them ) and Lumintop SD10 (obsolete now, maybe still available somewhere). Both have issues with heat mgt, poor pill designs unfortunately, TR-A9 could be worse.
Ahhh - or have Dale make a 32650 size tube replacement for a Convoy L2 or L6, or a EE/Manker/BLF X6
These #'s from the unprotected (ripped off) TF 32650 are pretty sic. Richard sells them already unprotected - wondering if my 32650 is "golden" or from a "golden batch" - love to see if repeatable with one from Richard.
I'll be testing my 32650 with a FET based XP-G2 light I got around - simply holding the cell to the driver spring, but want to see if I can get a good bump on XP-G2's as well - that would be the ultimate use for it. Also think'n if the BOSS1 could be adapted to 32650's - might need creative mill/lathe work of course... Dale?
I’m taking pictures as I go. I might make a build thread when I finish if the light looks ok. Right now it looks pretty beat up.
Last night I replaced the black Sugru with grey Sugru. As expected, just mixing black and white Sugru gave a neutral grey. It does not match the bronze-grey coloration of the anodizing on the light. I’m undecided if I want to buy colored Sugru and give it another shot.
Colored Sugru costs $18 a pack at the local hardware store (includes 1 packet of each of the primary colors plus black and white). $18 for one attempt with only a half-hour mixing and application time for the project sounds rather expensive.
Alternatively, I could try painting over everything except the switch button using my method with acrylic paints and super-glue. That would give me a much better color-match. But I’m not sure the paint would stick well. Sugru is a fairly hard rubber, but it’s still far more flexible than other surfaces. A little bending and flexing would cause my paint to break off.
A crude mod today, a hanging hook for my BLF-A6 bare 18350, made from a piece of iron. This light gets beaten up against my keys all the time, the finish does not have to be or stay pretty.
It was a stiff iron pin from somewhere, chromed at first, but I heated it to orange colour with a blow torch to make the bends, then the chrome flaked off. Actually I think I could just as well have used a common nail.
I could use a 35mm, anyone know of one? I’ve got the Nichia NVSU333A in an X6 at ~ 3.6A.
Tonight I revisited my Jax X6 Hunter to fine tune focus from the MT-G2. Pulled the brass pill, removed the 20mm Noctigon and re-flowed 2 copper discs under a 25mm MaxToch mcpcb while mounting a new MT-G2. Using a tab off a large Omten switch, I extended the pads away from under the reflector. Now the reflector (having already been modifed with a square aperture to encompass the MT-G2 substrate) sits flat on the mcpcb and the hot spot is tight and clean. 11.5A at the tail from a pair of Basen 26650’s for 4571 lumens out the front.
