On a light this size a small waterproof area. Like a pill box type screw plug chamber or something
keep emergency meds, band aids, fish gear, money, etc. could be clear lid and put a trit in there too.
could be built into a handle.
I’d like to see a 2xAA flashlight, putting out at least 500 out-the-front lumens with the following features:
- Copper or some other lustrous metal alloy (but not Ti!)
- Streamlined design: Preferable 17mm diameter. If not possible, then not more than 18mm diameter.
- Maximum output: 500 OTF lumens
- 4 Modes: ML (1-2 lumens) - Low (20 lumens) - Med (150 lumens) - Hi (500 lumens)
- Modes rotate in order from MoonLight to Hi.
- Mode memory (remembers last mode used).
- Side-button actuated for ease of operation.
- Button should be metal not rubber, internally sealed against water-intrusion. Metal buttons are so nice!
- IPX8 rated. 1Meter drop tested.
- Choice of tints: Cool White, Neutral White, and Warm White _ If limited due to manufacturing costs, then choose NW.
- Choice of emitters: CREE and Nichia (high CRI) _ If limited due to manufacturing costs, then choose Nichia (even if max output drops).
- Smooth, floody beam pattern (relatively shallow Orange Peel reflector)
- Minimum 150-degree wide spill (that means a small bezel).
- To limit the affect of tint shift, the lens should NOT be AR-coated.
- NO FANCY STEEL OR CHROME BEZEL (reflections create unsightly beam artifacts, extensions reduce spill angle)
- Tail-stand capable. Lanyard holes designed such that they do not interfere with tail-standing.
- Pocket clip.
- Lanyard. Spend a few cents more for a good quality paracord lanyard, instead of the cheap nylon ones.
- Moddable, i.e., major components not glued together!
Cost: Not to exceed $30.00.
Or a more simple 2xAA, putting out 500 lumens:
- Anodized aluminum
- Streamlined design: Preferable 17mm diameter. If not possible, then not more than 18mm diameter.
- Maximum output: 500 OTF lumens
- 3 Modes: Low (20 lumens) - Med (150 lumens) - Hi (500 lumens)
- Modes rotate in order from Low to Hi.
- No mode memory, always starts on low.
- Rubber-covered tail button.
- IPX8 rated. 1Meter drop tested.
- Cool White tint
- CREE emitter
- Smooth, floody beam pattern (relatively shallow Orange Peel reflector)
- NO FANCY STEEL OR CHROME BEZEL (reflections create unsightly beam artifacts, extensions reduce spill angle)
- Tail-stand capable. Lanyard holes designed such that they do not interfere with tail-standing.
- Pocket clip.
- Lanyard.
- Moddable, i.e., major components not glued together!
Cost: Not to exceed $18.00.
I would love to see some triple Nichia 219C 5000K from the factory light. Copper DTP mcpcb is a must have! Some good driver with no pwm(flickering), palm size would be great,with using one 18650 !
Stainless steel bezel would be a nice touch…!
Great idea GB !!!
Man i had the same dream as you 
SRK style light(like M6) with Courai reflector , 2s2p battery cofiguration , copper heat sink , electric switch plus tail switch , xhp70 led and no disco modes
Moon , 5% , 25% , 50% , 100% would be perfect
I was going to suggest a modular design so that you could us a variety of components in the same light. Think of the AR platform and it’s success. These members have some of the same ideas.
Some details that I feel are not optional even though they have been said many times:
Copper DTP MCPCB.
Variey of tints, and preferably high CRI options as well.
Unglued major components.
Appropriate carrying options, such as deep carry clip, adequate lanyard attachment, and a holster. Since most budget light holsters are garbage maybe offer one for sale separately that isn’t.
Optional details that many seem to want: (Or at least the ones I remember because it’s what I want)
Sublumen moonlight mode.
Hidden or no blinkies.
Reversible pocket clip.
Voltage indicator.
Low Voltage protection.
Overheat detection with ramping software versus timed step-down.
GITD or, even better, lighted component that is able to be disabled for finding in the dark.
Magnetic tail.
Ability to use flat top, button top, and protected cells.
Cheap.
Do you want or could you use concept drawings?
- 2 buttons, mechanical clicky switch at the back and electronic switch in front for mode switching.
- 3 modes adjustable by ramping like Crelant lights have
- it must remember settings for modes when you remove batteries
- mode memory, whan you operate back mechanical switch it always starts in last used mode
- SMO reflector of at least 60mm dia, 60mm depth…
- Cree XPL HI led about 4500-5000K
- at least 4 Amps to the LED
- gray color
- remote pressure switch for use on weapon
- low battery indicator on a front e-switch (at about 3.5V) and low battery cut off at 3V
- integrated “pill” design like on Crelant lights…
mmmmm, donuts!
Now how to interpret that — aha, I’ve got it:
— an easily replaceable pill, with considerable mass and shaped for contact with the mass of the head under the radiator fins
— threaded holddowns on both sides of the pill, for both emitter and driver, so they don’t have to be soldered/glued in place or held down by pressure from the reflector
— extra pills available so people can make up a variety of combinations of driver and emitter
— extra tailcaps available so people can make up their own illuminated tailcaps
— boards so people can make up illuminated tailcaps, especially amber and red and yellow emitters, not just blue. Green would also be nice.
— hosts, made with tailcaps, switches, lenses and reflectors, but no installed driver or emitter
Compact thrower with XPL HI 3D and one or two integranted 219C without reflector in the front of the head for flood option. 55 mm SMO Reflector. Forward switch and infinitely variable ring. Not glued threads (dedomed XP-G2 upgrade option)
High output flashlight with temperature control.
I considered suggesting a copper heatsink but a thick aluminum shelf about 1/4” thick could be left in place during machining of the heads reducing cost compared to a separate screw-in heatsink. Tailswitch would be nice and I overlooked it due to an idea I’m still refining for my projects - spring backed contacts that would break negative contact when the tailcap is loosened 1/4 turn. Thinking about it now I guess I’m trying to create a rotary switch. 
Leave a little more metal on the lights. Thin bodies heat up quickly and a few extra grams should help with strength. Led shelves a bit thicker. I personnally have more confidence in a heavier vs. lighter wieght.
Would like to see some nice 2-AA lights, 3 mode 1-2 lumens, 40 lumen, 250-400 lumens. A good shirt light for work.
And the more important part a new generation of single cell drivers to work he higher voltage Cree LED’s; XHP 35,50,70 and the MT-G2’s. I can see a nice spot for small bright single cell XHP-35’s running on 18650 or 26650’s.
i would like to have some proper rubber/silicon-sleeve/covering/coating on my EDC body (near the tailcap)
i use to wrap some insulating tape just near the tailcap, so i can hold the flashlight in my mouth (can holt it with my teeth like that)
i mean realy, how much actual use a tail stand or a magnet have comparing to mouth holding flashlight 
in real life, most of the time i want both my hands free when useing a light… O:-)
it will improve hand grasp too, like this pen have.
I’m thinking a high-sulphur coal-fired design with exquisite host metals sorced from Chernobyl, packaged in the rarest Amazonian wood box and lined with the plush fur of the last pandas known to man. Include UltraFire batteries and that would be one irresistible package.
2 or 3 models, with interchangeable bodies (4AA, 18650, 26650, 4x16650/26650) and interchangeable heads.
Programmable modes
temperature stepdown
boost circuitry for constant output
The key requirements I think that are needed are,
- Single 18650 Battery powered. Able to accommodate Longer cells so that Protected can be used.
- Flexible UI that allows for multiple mode selections that suite many requirements. Personally I prefer Low- Medium - High and then Turbo (DD).
- Good heat management that allows a user to use HIGH mode for extended periods.
- Selection of a range of LED Tints
- XPL - V5 or a similar high performance LED with Copper MCB. OUtput on High is >1,000 lumen
- Flashlight host comes in multiple color choices. Silver being my favorite.
- Size wise, slightly smaller than a P60 host, but not too small to ensure that heat management is good. A compact size people can carry every day, without being to small.
- Good quality finish.
- OP Lens. I prefer flood
- able to tail stand.
- Not keen on usb powering port.
Triple LED flashlight with built-in 18650 charger, good UI and lighted tailcap.
- Well-balanced in weight vs size vs price.
- Configurable modes.
- Copper MCPCB DTP.
- AR lens.
- Installed with new emitters such as XP-L/ HI, XHP50, XHP70 or high CRI.
xhp50 and green led side by side backed by two 18650 side by side.
sunlight mode
how about a driver that is easy to reprogram. right now if u want customize modes, it involves reprogramming the ATtiny13 on the drivers. it’s a bit too advance for some ppl including myself. if there is a way that can make the reprogramming a bit easier, that would be great.
Right angle 18650 light that can be worn on a headband, flood and mode spacing like the zebralight H600fd, that doesnt cost 90 bucks