What did you mod today?

Sweet looking tube RBD. I’ve been busy lately with a project but haven’t forgotten about the one we spoke about.

Me neither. I have a mahogany 2 x 14500 and am setting up a lacewood one and an oak one. I’ve found that using the largest 2-flute drill bit that will fit(1/2” for 14500 and 5/8” for 18650)with a tape wrap spins truer than the tape wrapped carriage bolt in the drill press. With softer woods the wood tube swells when it gets infused with epoxy to strengthen it. Harder woods like oak, walnut, and maple are more dimensional stable, tougher too, of course. I still haven’t had a chance to try bead blasting one yet.

Sweet lanceman, I’d say scratch built definitely counts as a mod. I just find veneer more difficult for me and my 9.5 thumbs.

I’m extremely creative when it comes to names. :slight_smile:

I managed to dedome one of them somehow during assembly. Makes for an even tighter spot, a little green though. People who like clean copper avert your eyes lol. Just quick, dirty, cheap, and functional.


The flashlight comes stock with a tiny plastic reflector, generic led, and a plastic pill.

Nice, sounds just like a girl I once knew. :wink:
There is something strangely satisfying making a silk purse from a sows ear. Is the side switch stock?

I did something similar with a cheap 2 x AA C3 copy . Nice body but rubbish inside (sounds just like another………nevermind).
I knew I wasn’t going to use the extension tube so I cut off the male thread and used it as a retaining ring for the pill. It’s now a nice little 14500 EDC light.


Yep, stock clicky side switch, decent feel to it. They aren’t doing much on AA, roughly 200lm iirc. Just a light to toss around and not worry about breaking.

That’s really cool with the chopped thread for a retaining ring.

Now don’t be walking away from this thread without leaving a link for that little side clicky host! Great looking pills BTW.

I wish I had one for you. The two old ones are 3 maybe 4 years old. No idea where they came from. I found an old discontinued product page on either Home Depot or Sears about a year ago. I tried finding that again a couple weeks ago and couldn’t find anything.

The new one I got in a Kershaw knife + flashlight package deal off eBay thanks to raccoon city. It has better finish and switch, but pretty much the same as the others. http://m.ebay.com/itm/262304463828

I had a pretty productive afternoon, spend it on my bench :

I swapped the stock XP-G2 of my Olight I3S for a nice high CRI Nichia 219B (stolen from my BLF 348) which make it a nice little EDC.

I made an illuminated blue tailcap for my blue S2+, which is still waiting for his triple 219C btw, took me like 2 hours fiddling with resistors to get both good illumination AND modes working forward and backward on my BLF 17DD driver…

Then, I made an S2 with 700mA driver (105C with only 2*7135) with the fabulous 3535 generic UV emitter bought from led4power, plus the tinted glass…man does it puts some UV light ! Pics are coming, this is incredible !

Aaannnd finally, I made a bench light with an active cooler from a computer, an XM-L2 4C on noctigon, a 3A driver from ebay (Russian seller, don’t remember his name) and a 12V power supply. I’ll make some pics too, along xith an empty beans can it make a nice working lamp !

Man, this is freaking annoying >:-#

- Took ordinary Nanjg 105 8xAMC driver

- added 4 more AMC chips, measured amps to led after every new chip
all good & working
gunked MCU side (where I soldered 4 additional AMC’s) with fujik thermal silicone glue,
I figured it might help with potential heat equalization…

  • assembled everything and it only works in max mode!!! what the!
    disassembled, removed fujik glue (painstaking toothpick work), tested it outside of the flashlight and it works, ok,
    put it back inside the flashlight and again, only max mode!!!
    unsoldered the led (XPL HI) hooked up with crocodile clips my testing triple XPG2 -> 3 modes work again, as they should (driver inside the flashlight)
    but when I connect LED inside the flashlight I only get max mode.
    Why does the LED when installed only works in max mode but outside the flashlight works as intended (3 modes), I guess it has something to do with negative connection that goes from the battery true flashlights body to the driver, maybe something on the driver is touching flashlights body and it shouldn’t…
    After 4 hours of tinkering I give up…

Short from LED- to GND is most likely. Check your emitter wires

Yep, sometimes the ledge the driver sits on is a bit wide, the negative lead touches right there at the pcb where it sits on the ledge in the light. Be sure it’s away from that ledge or file out a section for clearance.

I just finished swapping the driver in a dark gray Courui. XML2 (?) and Mountain SRK 7135 V2. Now it has seven modes. Excellent spot beam. Very impressive. I didn’t care much for this light overall but now it’s great. Like it very much. Nothing very special about this mod. Switch wires to sw+ and sw~~. L+ and L~~. Done. …although it does take quite a bit of sanding/filing to get from 46mm down to fit. About 1/8 inch or to the perferated holes. Nice driver. Smooth transition, hold button from off for turbo (7), good moon, even spacing, hold button down while on to reverse, single press forward. Major improvement. No need for pics. Standard Courui and MTN driver.

Reconfigured a cheap third hand to make a vertical soldering jig.

+1
Same thing happened to me. I assumed it was a dud driver but on close inspection realised that I had stripped too much insulation from one of the LED wires and it was shorting against the edge of the star.

Emitters swapping :

Workbench lighting : (note the ghetto reflector )

I’ve just finished a ebay srk .a alloy shelf from mrs dnf 3 x xpl hi ,and bypassed the resistors on the driver
works well
I also fitted a xpg dedomed to a convoy s4 host with a 2 mode fet driver

nice relaxing arvo.

Awesome. Looks like we have the same one…gonna have to do that to mine.

I just swapped the stock 5mm cold blueish white of my Nitecore Tube for a nice warm white high CRI LED :

Below are my S2+ with 4C tint and S2 with 1A tint (I think ?)
I’m really pleased with this tint !

Found the problem: for some reason negative contact on my brand new noctigon board was leaking to the ground meaning negative contact and ground are in short circuit and they should not be….
thanks for sugestions :beer: