we could use my little slide switches like Rev4 to ground a pin like soldering a star would, but that only gives us one config option and takes away an mcu pin. Or instead of the slide, use a tiny momentary switch and each button push cycles through a config option.
If using a tiny slide switch was a thing, why not use it to break the entire tail LED circuit?
That’s what Rev4 did. Either switch between two present brightnesses, or between on/off.
The little pots that I used under the driver spring in one of the versions has an off position too, and it can also perhaps someway present a range of voltages to the MCU that can be interpreted as different tasks? (bs-ing away here, I have no idea about anything)
I got some of the newer Ledring boards in and just build one with two red leds.
I like the easy on top assembly, very well done!
I am still totally unsure how big the resistors should be, I just used a 31k and no bleeder because it’s the original BLF X6 driver which seems to work without one… I have red LEDs which were advertised as very efficient (Stück SMD 0805 LED superhell, stromsparend ROT OF-SMD2012HR von OPTOFLASH (HRot 460-700mcd))
So I will use a even bigger resistor next time. I measured around 50ua.
I ever-so-slightly modified your STAR_1mode to change to a single low mode, used Atmel Studio 7 to generate a .hex file, and then flashed using a USBasp to the Attiny 13a using MHV AVR Tools 20131101 (and also Extreme Burner AVR just to try it out - super easy program) - I’m happy to report all went well! Thanks again for your help :). The process took less than 5 minutes and could be repeated in under a minute. The tail PCBs arrived from OSH Park, so now I’m just waiting on the Convoy host to put it all together.
In the meantime, I modded my BLF C6 Cu to dual amber tail LEDs with higher value resistors, much more subdued 
.
Hey all,
Simon is working on making that steel S2+ switch more “glowable” for you guys. How does this look?
Anything else that needs to change? Do you usually take care of the washer part or should I try to have him work something out there? Just check out the picture and then ask away. Thanks.
Translucent washer would be of benefit.
Simon + J-Dub74 is awesome. 
Who else would do this?
Thank you making these things happen.
The translucent gasket was the most important part. And that seems good. People have been able to find or create a clear washer (and some designs of the lighted tailcap just take the place the washer so it’s not an issue) but certainly if Simon could also source clear washers I don’t think anyone would say no.
I think you’ve said that extending the lip of the gasket to improve water resistance would be done later, correct? Of course it’s understandable since it will require modification to the design and a new mold.
The illuminated tailcap design with the leds on the washer is the better design for the S2+ tailcap because then the leds shine directly through the gap, a translucent washer would only benefit the weaker-lighted design with the leds next to the switch.
Would anyone know (or could measure) the inside and outside diameter of the gasket? The bottom of the gasket, part which rests against the washer.
Oh hell yea!! JDub that’s awesome! I need about a dozen of those translucent gaskets right now! I know its asking a lot, but if there’s any way Simon could make those available separately so we could update our existing lights that would be awesome.
I concur with djozz, by the way (as if he needs it). No need for the translucent washer in this light. In order to use one of the “traditional” lighted boards that replaces the existing switch, you have to run the emitters really bright to get enough light through that little nylon ring. Replacing the washer with a washer board is much more efficient, and really the only way to do this light. Don’t trouble Simon with that since most of us are just going to take it out and toss it in the parts box anyway.
Just to add to the chorus: I see no need for a translucent/transparent washer. The design which replaces the washer with a PCB seems to be clearly situated as the better design right now, especially for this application.
… and if someone DID want a clear washer, they could easily find or make their own which was just as effective.
Happy to help. Yeah improving the water resistance is a plan for the future. It’s not that bad now. This isn’t meant to be a dive light but certainly can be improved.
Between PD pioneering this and the pictures you posted of the S2+ in all three colors with matching tails Simon is amazed at the work being done here and is happy to help his BLF friends.
As far as “asking a lot”…it’s really not.
Simon loves this project and seeing pictures of his S2+ lights enhanced like this made his day. 
When I asked him to switch the black gasket to translucent I also asked if he would make extra for the people that had been pioneering this and he was happy to do so. He’s having extra translucent gaskets made. I’ll let you know when they are available here in this thread. I don’t know that these will be a store listed item but we’ll work that out.
Once they’re ready, 100 of them are coming my way. I’ll post here when I have them and I will help distribute to those who need them here in the US. These gaskets are on the house, compliments of Simon. I may send in small quantities to key people and maybe they can pay it forward so I don’t have to buy 100 stamps but either way…we got this. 
Those gaskets sound awesome. I have made 2 blue ones for my wife to use in the house, they get less use because I have spoiled her with lighted ones. She will put a light down once the room lights are on and forgets where she placed them. She will turn the room lights of and look for the glow. Gotta love the quirks and tricks of tbi patients.
Interested in two translucent gaskets, but I’m in Europe. I could re-sent some for european members?
I was actually hoping someone in Europe would chime in here. Let me talk to Simon and see if I can arrange to have some sent your way. Once I hear back from Simon I’ll send you a PM about the details. Thanks.
That’s awesome JDub, I really appreciate it and I’m sure the rest do too! I’m happy to help with shipping. Also I should revise my “order” since I said a dozen (which I would have happily bought just to have extras) but I actually only have 7 of these hosts. So don’t send me a free dozen at the expense of supplying the rest of the crew when I don’t really need them.
How can I measure the bleeded current of my lights without a tailcap? Is this possible? thanks!