There are now two tabs on the spreadsheet - one labelled "With Runtimes".
These are not formal runtimes which would be to 50% output - these numbers are till the light is dim enough to comfortably look into the LED. Official runtimes would be a little shorter. However, once NiMH cells hit a certain level of discharge the voltage and output drop like a rock so there is not a huge difference.
By 1V an NiMH cell is essentially completely discharged.
Hey Don, out of all your 1AA lights, what would be your 1AA NiMH Top 5? I ask because I'm looking at putting a Christmas list together of 1AA flashlights for my friends and family. Thank you sir.
Don, I just wanted to point out that without minimal current draw infos (like, at start and at each hour afterward would be fine), those numbers are not going to be that useful to everyone else. In fact that might be a good thing to do for the spreadsheet in general.
We all know about the variability of the chinese light manufacturing process, and while we can't control for defects/loses through the light body, people can probably get an approximate number for their version/batch by doing a quick draw test linear extrapolation. A few results over time can also help verify if it's the same kind of driver.
IOW, you may have a R5 A3 with 2A draw, but won't necessarily say anything directly about mine which may only get 1A.
Zebralight H50 11 lux / 2 lumens but because of its design the lightbox may not be capturing all the light it is putting out.
Ultrafire C3SS 4 lux / 1 lumen
Powerlight <1 lux / not a lot
I can only say that the Akoray K-106 ran for more than 8 hours, likewise the F25 (All the remaining lights were lit when I checked at 2am). Given that the BLF DeLight and the F22 were both flashing I've allocated them a >600 minute runtime.
Hmmm, interesting. I should test my Ultrafire C3 Stainless again. I would have expected at least 20 hours. And it appears than the F25 is significantly brighter than the C3 Stainless on low? I wonder if my 3/5 star rating on the 14 hour runtime of the Ultrafire M2 is a bit too low after all?
I got 12.5 hours on an alkaline to 50% on the C3. I'll need to stick the F25 on the box and get some better numbers. Thus far it hasn't even been out of the house, let alone exposed to outdoors darkness. At some point I need to gather together all the runtimes and put them on a spreadsheet. Problem is, runtimes are the slowest of all to do - must play with the Linux box which is steadfastly refusing to update itself and see if I can persuade it to do two simultaneous sets of measurements, the Windows box will only see one of the meters at a time - and it isn't always clear which.
I suppose a full data set would be something like
Outputs at all (non-flashing) levels from all cell types. Since I'm not interested in the flashing levels and runtimes are likely to be long, it would be tedious to test those - let alone I have no way of measuring with the necessary time resolution.
Current draw at all levels from all cell types
Runtimes at all levels from all cell types (This gets expensive and is unlikely to happen)
Temperatures reached (This is not very easy to get reliable results from)
Weights
Sizes
LED type
Construction quality
Beamshots indoors and out
Presence or absence of PWM.
Other stuff
Complete data sets are an ideal rather than something I ever expect to achieve. Comparisons do interest me though. I'll get numbers for the F25 soon.
I don't think so, but it will be easy enough to put in more tabs sorted by each heading - problem is that sorting it comes under editing it which is likely to lead to vandalism sooner or later unless I were to specifically authorise each person using it which would be tedious in the extreme for everyone. I can easily enough copy and paste into new tabs and sort them by each heading.
The Powerlight will make light from an alkaline for longer than with an NiMH it seems, the current draw is low enough that you actually get the benefit of the higher draw at lower current. Likewise the MDXL both of which should be capable of over a day on an alkaline.
Aurora SH-035 and Zebralight H50 still going. I wasn't that impressed with the Aurora as I was expecting a better Ultrafire C3 Stainless Steel Q5. I got a dimmer light that is severely overdriven (To the point of the LED turning bluish) with a 14500 - the XP-E in it can't tolerate the over-current that an XR-E can. Its niche would appear to be incredibly long runtime on low. It is still putting out 12 lux to the Zebralight's 10, both around the 2 lumen mark. One lux is about the minimum level a human eye finds useful without severe dark adaptation, i.e., the level at which colour vision is still possible. You can see at lower levels, at least for sufficiently low values of see.
Maybe it's just a matter of perspective, but I'm a curious person by nature and it would bug me to not know why something occured the the way it did. It's not a matter of "methodology", but I wouldn't feel like I understood the runtime number otherwise.
For example, I don't care much about absolute runtimes per se, but at least initial draw rates (corresponding to "lightbox" numbers) would be very telling about the efficiency of different lights, especially if they are related to lumens. For the all the talk about bins and whether a light is Q3 or Q5 or whatever, not many people ever bother to try and figure out if a light is actually efficient. In a sense a simple draw power-->output calculation is much easier and more telling than the emitter bin. It would substantively qualify what your lightbox number means. Again, not methodology for the sake of it, just quite valuable info. Better would be this value integrated over time (ie this test), but just one simple measure initially would carry a lot of weight.
However, I genuinely couldn't have spent the time doing it last night - I am firmly of the opinion that the more measurements the merrier. I must investigate the Linux datalogging stuff so I can run two meters at once. Then unattended measurements which are rather less time-consuming and can log a lot more information can be done. Like you say current vs. output is useful. For instance the new Q5 Ultrafire C3 on 2AA NiMH compared to the old (Also 2AA) makes more light while drawing an amp less. Which is just one of the reasons why it is enormously better than the old one.