D.I.Y. Illuminated tailcap

[J-Dub74]

@djozz

Interested in two translucent gaskets, but I’m in Europe. I could re-sent some for european members?

I was actually hoping someone in Europe would chime in here. Let me talk to Simon and see if I can arrange to have some sent your way. Once I hear back from Simon I’ll send you a PM about the details. Thanks.

[emarkd]

@J-Dub74

These gaskets are on the house, compliments of Simon.

That’s awesome JDub, I really appreciate it and I’m sure the rest do too! I’m happy to help with shipping. Also I should revise my “order” since I said a dozen (which I would have happily bought just to have extras) but I actually only have 7 of these hosts. So don’t send me a free dozen at the expense of supplying the rest of the crew when I don’t really need them.

[nofear87]

How can I measure the bleeded current of my lights without a tailcap? Is this possible? thanks!

[zipelgas]

Hi!
Can anyone assist me figuring out the ‘best’ bleeder resistor value for BLF A6. The tail lights up nicely with stock driver, but the driver acts funky. I measured 0.24mA in the tail if that helps.
Thanks!

[pilotdog68]

@nofear87

How can I measure the bleeded current of my lights without a tailcap? Is this possible? thanks!

You mean how much current is bypassing the driver? I think it’s easier to just “do the math” based on voltage and resistance. To actually measure you’d have to isolate it somehow, or disable the mcu so it doesn’t turn on when you bridge the tail with a meter.

[pilotdog68]

@zipelgas

Hi!
Can anyone assist me figuring out the ‘best’ bleeder resistor value for BLF A6. The tail lights up nicely with stock driver, but the driver acts funky. I measured 0.24mA in the tail if that helps.
Thanks!

Maybe someone else knows how to predict it or something, but I use trial and error. Try a 680ohm first, and if that is still acting funny start going down from there. 680ohm, 560ohm, etc

[zipelgas]

@pilotdog68

@zipelgas

Hi!
Can anyone assist me figuring out the ‘best’ bleeder resistor value for BLF A6. The tail lights up nicely with stock driver, but the driver acts funky. I measured 0.24mA in the tail if that helps.
Thanks!

Maybe someone else knows how to predict it or something, but I use trial and error. Try a 680ohm first, and if that is still acting funny start going down from there. 680ohm, 560ohm, etc

Thanks for the quick reply.
I would if I could… but I just don’t have many SMD resistors laying around. I need to get me a value-pack

[pilotdog68]

Higher resistance is better for efficiency when the light is on, but lower resistance is more likely to restore driver function.

[write2dgray]

@write2dgray

Thanks again for all of the advice, much appreciated!

I’m liking the size of the 18350 version S2+ for this application in blue, but it appears only the gray and black come with the rubber tailcap. So, to lego something together in blue I’m looking at the following items for the host:

Host =
Convoy S2+ Host (blue)
18350 Tube (blue)
Convoy S2+ with LED gray (for rubber tailcap)

For the LED driver, it would be nice to get a flood with one low light mode (like 10-15 lumens or less). I’m looking at a Nanjg driver with one 7135 chip (380mAh output) programmed with guppydrv which can be set to one mode at 100%.
LED/Driver/Optic =
LED - re-use XM-L2 that comes in gray S2+ host
Optic - 60 Degree Flood
Nanjg Driver w/ guppydrv firmware and (2) 7135 chips removed

And for the tailcap I’d like to go with purple LEDs (will the UV emitted potentially be harmful? should I use one red and one blue LED instead?):
Lit Tailcap =
PD68 Lighted Switch - 17mm Rev 3
Omten 1288 Switch
Spring
Translucent Tailcap (white)
Purple 0805 LEDs x 2
nylon or acrylic washer

• some 0603 or 0805 resistors for bleed resistor on driver and to adjust LED brightness level at tail

See any glaring problems, omissions, or have better recommendations for any components?

Small update on the plan above - we have light! The host, LED, driver, and optic worked out perfectly. Unfortunately, I’ve ran into a couple of snags on the lit tailcap.

It turns out, the S2+ tailcap with rubber boot cannot be swapped out onto the S2+ with metal tailcap boot, the tailcap design is different. So, you can’t end up with a rubber tailcap S2+ in any other color except for black and gray (only two colors made with both rubber and metal tailcap). As such, I’ve decided the best way to go is to use the washer ring led on the red S2+ I have – a new project!!!

As for outfitting the gray S2+ rubber tailcap, it seems I should have gone with a 16mm LED board to match the original tail switch size as the 17mm PCB will not fit in the brass retaining ring, or is there another way?

[jingleberry]

Where would I place the bleed on a stock S2+?

I also built one with a rev 5.1 board with 1k ohm resisters in a triple xpl with a FET MTN-17DDm driver (without a bleeder), but the LEDs do not appear as bright as the ones shown in this thread.

[pilotdog68]

@jingleberry

Where would I place the bleed on a stock S2+?

You probably don’t need one

[jingleberry]

I tried without a bleeder but the tail cap nor the light will turn on.

[emarkd]

I’ve built a bunch of S2+ lights but I’ve never bought one already working, so I’m not sure what driver comes in that light. But if its got 7135s on the bottom of the driver near the positive spring, just drop a resistor between that positive spring and the center pin on a 7135 (they’re all connected to ground). Just be careful not to short anything.

Here’s a photo of one I did:

[nofear87]

@pilotdog68

@nofear87

How can I measure the bleeded current of my lights without a tailcap? Is this possible? thanks!

You mean how much current is bypassing the driver? I think it’s easier to just “do the math” based on voltage and resistance. To actually measure you’d have to isolate it somehow, or disable the mcu so it doesn’t turn on when you bridge the tail with a meter.

Thanks PD! I think I will build a board without mcu to test it or maybe erase the mcu on a complete driver.

[write2dgray]

This may be helpful for those who don’t have the proper 2mm thick material around to make a clear washer. I discovered that the 3/4” washers with 5/16” holes are exactly what is used in tattoo machines, here are some on eBay in clear acrylic . They also come in frosted clear acrylic and various other colors :).

[nofear87]

will it be available separately, that we can update existing hosts?

@J-Dub74

Hey all,

Simon is working on making that steel S2+ switch more “glowable” for you guys. How does this look?

Anything else that needs to change? Do you usually take care of the washer part or should I try to have him work something out there? Just check out the picture and then ask away. Thanks.

[Halo]

@nofear87

will it be available separately, that we can update existing hosts?

D.I.Y. Illuminated tailcap

Oh hell yea!! JDub that’s awesome! I need about a dozen of those translucent gaskets right now! I know its asking a lot, but if there’s any way Simon could make those available separately so we could update our existing lights that would be awesome. I concur with djozz, by the way (as if he needs it). No need for the translucent washer in this light. In order to use one of the “traditional” lighted boards that replaces the existing switch, you have to run the emitters really bright to get enou…

@J-Dub74

When I asked him to switch the black gasket to translucent I also asked if he would make extra for the people that had been pioneering this and he was happy to do so. He’s having extra translucent gaskets made. I’ll let you know when they are available here in this thread. I don’t know that these will be a store listed item but we’ll work that out.

Once they’re ready, 100 of them are coming my way. I’ll post here when I have them and I will help distribute to those who need them here in the US. These gaskets are on the house, compliments of Simon. I may send in small quantities to key people and maybe they can pay it forward so I don’t have to buy 100 stamps but either way…we got this.

[nofear87]

thanks

[write2dgray]

I spent a couple hours playing with different LEDs and resistor values with very little success, basically, if you try to use different LED colors with much different Vf then the light output will vary significantly between them over the operating range of 3.7-4.2V. No combination of resistors for blue and red LEDs produced a consistent light output from each LED. Best results are obtained by using all LEDs of the same color (really more same Vf = forward voltage) IME YMMV.

[EllaEmma]

If I had the Rev3 PCB and I want to use the Rev5b LED ring…where on the Rev3 PCB should I connect the positive and negative leads from the Rev5b LED ring?

I feel really stupid asking this question.