I also built one with a rev 5.1 board with 1k ohm resisters in a triple xpl with a FET MTN-17DDm driver (without a bleeder), but the LEDs do not appear as bright as the ones shown in this thread.
I’ve built a bunch of S2+ lights but I’ve never bought one already working, so I’m not sure what driver comes in that light. But if its got 7135s on the bottom of the driver near the positive spring, just drop a resistor between that positive spring and the center pin on a 7135 (they’re all connected to ground). Just be careful not to short anything.
This may be helpful for those who don’t have the proper 2mm thick material around to make a clear washer. I discovered that the 3/4” washers with 5/16” holes are exactly what is used in tattoo machines, here are some on eBay in clear acrylic . They also come in frosted clear acrylic and various other colors :).
I spent a couple hours playing with different LEDs and resistor values with very little success, basically, if you try to use different LED colors with much different Vf then the light output will vary significantly between them over the operating range of 3.7-4.2V. No combination of resistors for blue and red LEDs produced a consistent light output from each LED. Best results are obtained by using all LEDs of the same color (really more same Vf = forward voltage) IME YMMV.
If I had the Rev3 PCB and I want to use the Rev5b LED ring…where on the Rev3 PCB should I connect the positive and negative leads from the Rev5b LED ring?
Don’t feel stupid. The answer is - anywhere you can find the power. To be more specific, I’ve been tapping all my Rev5 ring boards directly to the switch itself, one lead on each side. One side of the switch is always connected to the battery’s negative and the other one is always connected to the body of the flashlight. Press the switch and the circuit is completed. I think the fact that one side of the switch is always connected to negative is pretty obvious. What may not be immediately obvious is that from this point in the flashlight circuit the body of the light, which we normally think of as ground, is actually connected to the positive “bleed” from the driver. You’ll have to do a bit of testing to figure out which side of the switch is which.
I’ve ran into an unexpected glitch with the S2+ build and the offtime based STAR_1mode firmware when using the lit tailcap. The driver will operate correctly when a battery is first inserted, but if I return and try some minutes later the light will not turn on unless I remove and replace the battery.
If I change to a standard (not LED lit) tail the driver operates perfectly all the time, so it has something to do with the lit tail. Any suggestions on what the issue may be or how to resolve? Will this still require a bleed resistor possibly?
By default yes, but there are extra traces so you can split the two sides of the board and have a different resistor value for each LED
edit: technically the order of the circuit (where the button is) is flipped around in your drawing, but it doesn’t matter for what I think the root of your question was
Based on my experience I’d recommend about 20kOhm. Blue has the lowest Vf of the ones I’ve used and benefited from the highest resistor value to appropriately dim.