Q8, PMS SEND TO THOSE WITH ISSUES BLF soda can light

Count me in for one!

Are you sure that you wouldn’t want a UCL lens, instead of AR-coated one?

I’m currently #11 and #12 on the list.

Please put me down for a third one. I lured another friend aboard!

Thank you Miller!

In! In! In!

Goshdogit, aha yes will do!
But it probably will take a while before they are in your hands :wink:

@

You mean 3 times ;D (if not please tell me, I put you in the list three times ;))

Aha, 1dash1 yes that would defeat the purpose, thanks.
The question then is, is a UCL lens worth it or should we just go with a standard lens?
For now I removed the AR coated lens from the OP and were back at a glas lens.

FWIW, Nichia 219 + AR-coated lens is a recipe for low CRI. I’d suggest that you go for good tint or AR coating, but not both.

Yes, the AR coating is gone, we’re back at regular glass for now. Thanks!

interested in 18650 version ,definitely IN for 14500 version by DavidEF.

Bistro is not compatible with e-switches. However Tom E has a nice e-switch firmware with all sorts of good features. Have you considered Narsil?

The closest I’ve got is Ferrero_Rocher/Ramping_UI_table.c, which would need some significant changes. Or bistro, which is designed to make e-switch code somewhat easier to write eventually… but the code for that doesn’t exist yet. I like the ramping UI basics though:

While off:

  • Click to turn on at the last-used level.
  • Hold to turn on at the lowest level.
  • Double click to turn on at the highest level.

While on:

  • Click to turn off.
  • Hold to ramp smoothly (and pretty quickly). Release to set the level. Hold again within a second to ramp the other way.

If the driver used a tiny25/45/85 and had the FET and 7135 on entirely separate channels (not sharing a PWM counter), it would be possible to use both PWM and PFM on a 2-channel driver. What this means is it could ramp much more smoothly at the low end instead of getting stairstep-like jumps at the bottom few levels. Not sure that’s relevant for a light this size, but it’s something I’d like to see sometime.

Interested but not committed. I’m already buying pats for a SRK build and my finances will dictate what happens here.

I would like ramping and good threading on the body which would raise my interest. Must have a full shelf like the original, it’s a no-go for me without that. Not interested in a ‘baby’ model.

Something to consider is having the whole group made in one identical batch as another requirement so things don’t go like the A6 did.

Phil

Awesome. Thank you.
If you End up being able to do this with the high cri. I am pretty sure I’ll be buying one

Count me in for 1 maybe more depending on what happens with the final build

This month? I think we can safely say that this light won’t affect this months budget. And probably not next months’ either… :slight_smile:

Sign me up for one.

Hi The Miller, put me down on the list for one please :slight_smile:
It would be great if you could indeed get the “happy box” company (Thorfire) to make it.

ToyKeeper

Both Roche and Ramping firmwares are good enough, they just lack temp control, if you adjust those for A25 it would be great……actualy only a few would ever use all fansy firmware features, yet the temp control is a great option

We should also work on the driver cooling, i burried many mosfets trying to cool down the fet especialy while ramping…. its strange though, when i use a glued Cu headsink on the mosfet it dies way more rapidly and often than if i just glue the drive with a pure sillicone to the main SRK pcb…i am trying to figure that out on a Thorfire XHP70 atm, the mosfet is duying randomly

I would like to be included also! Sign me up for one.
Thanks!

I’m definitely in.

Mitko, great input on the cooling of those parts.
We don’t want to having dying lights.
Reading your post I remembered those little stick on heatsinks used in PCs. For critical servers I put those on all chips. But then I read that these do not help.

Is the MOSFET the highest part of a driver? Seen from the PCB?
If so, would making the ledshelf (integrated in body) thicker to the point where driver can be attached with screws and the MOSFET pressed against the shelf be done? Nah, wires need to run and future modding would become much harder even if it could.

So hmm what could solve this issue?
If not done reliable I’d say let’s go for a not ramping no matter how much I like the idea of ramping

Good Day The Miller,

You specced: LEDs on copper stars

But should it be LEDs on Copper DTP stars?

Best Regards,

George

I’m definitely in!!