There sure isn’t much of a battery tube on the shorty. Today I modded my single AA quad light with a second battery tube so now it will run on either 1 or 2 AA NiMh batteries.
Picture of your 1 X AA quad or it doesn’t exist.
I just done a spring bypass on my Thorfire S70 i used thick cable capable of handling 10 amps….
Did some more work on my xeno cube, it already has an XP-L HI triple with copper spacer, bored out battery tube to accept a 16500 cell and a FET driver as you may have seen earlier.
Today i worked on the switch as it was a small reverse clicky that i wanted to upgrade to a more current capable forward clicky, i keep this light as a simple two mode. (10% & 100%)
I also wanted to create a lock-out function for this light so i did away with the switch spring and replaced it with a brass stud (there is no spring on the driver side either).
Original switch and larger F/C replacement
Original switch boot and replacement to maintain water resistance
The steel switch plunger had to be filed down due to the much larger switch
Switch casing parts, very well made but i had to leave out the two inner cores
New forward clicky with one contact directly soldered onto copper plate which is epoxied in place, the other tab soldered onto some copper braid
Switch screwed into housing (the corners catch the internal threading)
The copper braiding is jammed into the side space with some solder paste then very quicky melted and pushed in some more to try and make a good contact with the steel threads
Soldered a brass stud onto the pre-tinned copper plate, filled other side gaps with silicone cubes and cut & drilled a kydex cover epoxied in place semi permanently
The stud was longer than required so it could be fine tuned to the correct length with a file, then lightly polished
Ready for the moment of truth…
All Good! :sunglasses:
That is such a cool light! I’d like to see a picture of the front end with the triple optic.
nice work ,crx
Nice build!
Nice work with the glow paint!
Thanks, there’s six small cutouts in the bezel for unscrewing so i filled them with GITD powder & clear epoxy mix.
I was very unhappy with my BLF EE X6 with CW emitter that was useless lying in some drawer. Switched the driver with a LD-2 from led4power. Did not add a spring, but soldered a brass spike on it that I salvaged from a diskette-unit. And I did a tail spring bypass with a via to the switch. The tail current went up from 2.59A to 5.23A
I bet that brought a smile to your face 
It certainly did. I had some concerns about soldering the spike. Afraid that the electronics on the other side of the board could fall off or float away from the heat. So I decided NOT to solder a cold spike, but to “presolder” the spot on the board where the spike should come. And then place the spike I had heated for 5 minutes on the shaft of my soldering-iron.
put a perfboard assy with 16 high cri 5mm into a versapak snakelight.much better now.esp with 18650 modded packs.
My excuse is that daylight saving is finished and I cannot take a picture for quids in the lounge so hopefully I’ll get a couple of pics of the long and short version this weekend.
The electrical short that had me in tears.
I was at the stage of replacing the star with the four leds on it, while waiting for the soldering iron to heat up I thought why dont I have a look through the two dollar loupe that losttheplot gave me (cheap skate $ ) complete with miniature led lights and a bazillion zoom. Well blow me down if there was not a hair like thread of wire soldered to the + pad hanging over one of the locating holes for the peg on the TIR. It was not until the TIR was pushed home by the bezel that it would short. This wire I could not see with my normal magnifying glass. After removing the short bingo, we had light when we should of.
Glad you found your short. It’s always something. Luckily when we run into these problem, we know that they are contained within a one square inch area so we can eventually ferret them out.
I really do want to see a photo of this light. I just can’t picture it in my minds eye.
I want to see a photo of Steve in the lounge using the loupe to find that thin wire… 
The lights nothing special to be honest. It has parts in it given to me by Dale. Thanks Dale, but he wont want to know that its only powered by a humble 1 or 2 NiMH batteries.
The pictures, I was trying to take in the lounge room and the louping was carried out in the shed.
I’m pretty sure I would be shot if I brought the soldering iron into the lounge room. I’m not as lucky as some others here.
Put a 5D XPL into my Olight S1 Ti. Found Turkeylords video on how to get the head open and it went well. Got the old board out, filed down a new one for the XPL, reflowed and tested the board, all is good. Got the board in well, soldered to the correct wires and it works… Sort of . The XPL in the XM-L2 TIR is a square kind of beam, not too bad, I can live with it… The XPL must have a different enough Vf to affect the UI, now the single click to off goes to moonlight and sometimes it cuts off after a few seconds, most of the time it does not. It stays in ML…
Now I need to find a high CRI XM-L2 and do this again…
Did you by chance find this video in one of my post on this topic ? :sunglasses:
Did you ever try the 7A3 tint ? I choose this one for my S1 and it’s a really warm white with good CRI (judging by eyes, I don’t know the official value)