I had a DQG Tiny 4th, I really liked it. Finding the switch button could be an issue, I just rotated pocket clip 180 degrees from switch to help me find it.
Yep, same problem with all 4 of my Olight S series, (S15, S15R, S20, S30)
I position the clips so they ride in the “open slot” between my thumb and fingers when my thumb is at rest on the button.
So when I grip the light I rotate till I feel the clip between my thumb and fingertips, that way the clip is not under any part of my hand, which is more comfortable to hold and I know my thumb will be in position right over the switch.
Like this:
If you use the 180 degrees (opposite from switch) method, give this a try instead, another benefit is less chance of accidental “pocket turn on” because when clipped in a front pants pocket the switch won’t be pressing up against your body like it is when in the 180 degrees position.
A quick question - what’s the main purpose for that light? This can be important if you’re planning to use it a lot.
Personally I don’t like Zebra’s - ugly and overpriced.
I love lights where you have high value/money factor, my best picks would be:
- DQG Tiny (don’t have it yet, but it’s on my buy list).
- Manker U11 - UI possibilities similar to Zebra, compact and has built in charger (very nice feature if you’re going somewhere, so no need to take extra batteries/charger).
BLF A6 / Astrolux S1 with 18350 tube (great UI, small, but no side button) - my current EDC.
Personally I like Zebra’s , the best regulation of the world. No comparisson with others.
I love the UI of zebras, one of the better interfaces of the world if you know how to use it.
The worst is obviously the price, of course if are the most advanced lights of the world (in class of less than 100USD), the price can not be the same of others….
(I will not buy the SC63, because I like use protected battery and is not posible with this)
Oh, okay, I see why you didn’t like the interface. IMO, their current interface is very good. I’d like to see them add programability for the primary modes (rather than just the secondary modes), but otherwise I don’t think I’d change a thing.
I read somewhere that the CW version was almost like a NW in other models or brands. They said the NW is too yellow. (I heard that in a video from the guy of skylumen)
If they went total programmable I would be interested again. Current UI worked good for leave it on light. Like on a bike. And headlamps give great adjustment in a 2 fish block. I change modes to much for the current UI to be practical for my uses. Tint is a lottery but if you get a good one its usually great.
I would mainly use it for peacock bass fishing trips ( yes, here in Venezuela we have giants peacock bass) and other reason to buy a good flashlight is beacuse we are having a lot of issues with power supply in the entire country. So making a good choice its important to. Our currency is so beated up that spending 60-80$ in a flashlight its almost a luxury.
For example: buying a washer is more expensive than drilling a hole into our highest coin and using it as a washer
So you do the math. Thats why im planning to get a good quality light, resistant, bright, good quality and once in a while carrying it in my front pocket
Thats why IMHO, olight s2 was the pick until i saw zebralight sc63
When I first got into quality flashlights, I simply chose cool white because that’s what almost everybody had. I didn’t know there was anything different or better.
Later, out of curiosity, I tried a neutral white (a Zebralight). Wow! What am improvement! Things no longer look so ghostly and washed out. I was hooked.
Over time, I have gotten even more picky. I prefer the warmer end of neutral white (around 4000K), and I’m trying for higher CRI LEDs (like Nichia 219 or EasyWhite or Luxeon). Cree LEDs are great for brightness and efficiency, but even the neutral whites can sometimes be a little greenish.
Standard cool white LEDs now look awful to me, and I can’t stand to use any of my older lights because of that.
Nichia 219 LEDs are currently the best for accurate color rendition, if you don’t need extreme brightness.
Yes I remember reading that also when I was considering the ZL. I decided against it because of that. I don’t want CW and I don’t like too warm (yellowish) either. And I like a simple UI with fast access to turbo, plus I got to have knurling on my lights for grip, IMO the more aggressive the better.
The DQG NW has a great tint, pure white not too warm or yellow.
—
I didn’t realize the benefit of Neutral tint until I got my first one and ran it outdoors next to a cool white, colors look way better with NW (especially outdoors) then I was sold and always get NW tint except maybe specifically for a very far thrower to get the few extra lumens.
Oops! I was mixing up the Olight with the 1xCR123 version of the baton.
Comparing the Olight S2 18650 to the Zebralight SC63w I recommend the Zebralight. It’s more compact and a better light.
If you’re willing to go with something larger, get the Zebralight SC600w III HI. It’s the best Zebralight ever and probably the best unmodified light I’ve ever owned. It features:
Excellent knurling. Feels like a million bucks in the hand.
Short enough for pocket EDC (at least in my pockets) though definitely larger than an SC63
Excellent output. Stays close to max output far longer than the SC63. The SC63 will start ramping down fairly rapidly due to heat (both lights have PID thermal sensors). The SC600 III HI stays near maximum indefinitely even when tailstanding due to the extra mass and deeper heatsink fins.
Superior tint to the SC63w
Much superior throw. The SC600w III HI has more throw than any other Zebralight (approximately 19,000 lux).