FryRay L1, (Now with pictures)

You don't need no drivers for 5X XM-L and 2 more extensions on DD, just run the cells from 4.0V down. From what I see, the heat performance should be the same as DRY, no issue for 1 minute runs, 2 mins max. The good thing is that the design is the same as the SR3800 rev 0 and the DRY.

It's easy, in your country at this time of the year you probably get 2700L OTF with 3 XM-Ls. You'd get 4500L OTF with 5. You can pull this off with 4 amps, but your host needs to be cool probably host surface not more than 15 deg C (hence ambient needs to be quite a bit lower, preferably with the aid of wind)

You could bypass the driver, so at least it's usable later. Need to see if the 5 emitters are in series though (I think so).

The tint is probably 1C/1D from your description.

PS. Where to get the extensions? Maybe Ric can source for ya. Needless to say, you need to know what you are doing to pull this off (includ cells monitoring)

Thanks for checking this flashlight out for us SPAMBOOT!. I am in a thinker corner and twisting about buy or not. How is the heatsink? is it fixed with a reflector on its own? Or is it a dropin module as the Sky Ray 3x XML ? This flashlight should have some crazy potential if the heat management is good

Isn't this the driver for L1 5xT6 ? http://www.manafont.com/product_info.php/flashlight-diy-part-circuit-board-for-pentaleds-modes-module-p-8002

Cnqualitygoods is currently selling $85.00 only!

cnqualitygoods needs $8.50 shipping for me (unregistered to be same as Manafont). KD is a bit lower.

BTW SPAMBOT, do you have any single XM-L lights to do a ceiling bounce side by side with the L1 again so that i can have another relative figure to compare? Yezl, Ultrafire C8, UF-980L, anything? P60s are not advisable.

Unfortunately the Shadow TC6 one that i have is NW, plus there are some variation in the drive level (some are 2A, mine is 2.5A)...so can't compare.

It is neither a drop in nor is it a threaded drop in like in the SR-850. The external parts of the flashlight head is in four pieces: a bezel, a solid conical piece that the LED's and reflector is mounted to, a square flanged part that houses the regulator and finally a fluted retaining ring which holds the regulator PCB in place. The heat sinking is good, but if you plan on going for crazy power you may want to add some thermal grease to the threads between the conical and the flanged parts.

I thought so too, and at first glance they look very similar. Their layout is different however. Could be it is still a usable replacement, but it is not a direct replacement.

Only usd91.90 + 2.27 for registered air parcel at bestinone.net.

$15 cheaper, figures...

I had to go searching for the original thread to find this one. Spambot, thanks for the report. I'm still on the fence, but since I held off on buying any of the triple XM-L lights, I'm very tempted. I'd like the TK-70 since I have a TK-35 and I like the quality, I just can't bring myself to drop $200 on one. So do you guys think someone will come out with one that has a different battery configuration or more emitters?

Right now, I have 3 C8s ghetto-taped together. LOL

Thanks for the review SPAMBOT. I really need to justify that +40~45 USD between this light and Trustfire's 3T6, or maybe I can get a NW Shadow with that moneytoo. I understand this light feeds every led with ~1.5Amps, right? And the driver pill seems to have cables twisted in some pictures I found. Do they look like they will break easily?

Only if you don't loosen the regulator retaining ring first. Loosen that ring before unscrewing the conical part from the flanged heat sink part and there is no wire twisting occurring at all. I cannot comment on how much each 1,27A is the LED current, I just measured it with my clampmeter at its 40A range.

(1,27*15)/(1,77*12)=0,897. 89,7% efficacy, not bad!

Hi SPAMBOT, i ordered one, couldn't stand it...just needed to find out. :D

Can I ask how much current at the tail are you getting from the Shadow TC6 neutral white? With fully charged batteries if possible, or at least > 4.15V.

For me the reflected ceiling bounce is 55. Yours is 46. The DRY CW in Turbo is 250 at my place.

So the L1 should fare pretty nicely. Your current figures esp from the clamp meter seem a little low though but we all know how much variances these can have. (ceiling bounce with lux meter + direct beam is always nicest). But anyway any info is better than no info. :)

The TC6 is the 2A version, so ~1A at the tail while yours should be ~1.2A at the tail. My Skyray just fried : / Shipping it back to manafont would be prohibitively expensive, so that is not an option. Perhaps this regulator could be altered to serve as a replacement?

WTF.... cancel cancel! Mine's from CNqualitygoods so i guess i'd need to select something else.

How is your driver in the L1 different from this one?

http://www.manafont.com/product_info.php/flashlight-diy-part-circuit-board-for-pentaleds-modes-module-p-8002

Uh-oh !! Sorry to hear that.:( I guess I'll need to keep with something more reliable like 3T6 but I already have two TR1200 bodies at home and it doesn't feel special at all.

I guess Benckie is right to avoid the Fry Rays. My Uniquefire 3900 "drop-in" is still going strong though, but i haven't really put it in high.

SPAMBOT, did you use your cells up all the way to low-voltage cut off? I am thinking if the drivers have problem boosting.

The TF 3T6 just drops out of regulation and runs DD.

Mind you, this is not a $50 light frying, in which you can easily DD it. I am not sure if i'd wanna DD with 5 x 18650 starting @ 3.9V, even if i have the extensions (it might fit with the TR-1200 and triple XM-Ls and stuff like that).

Different circuit board layout for one. Might be that one and the one from DX uses the same boost controller, but all three have different layouts.

Never run the cells down to pcb shutoff, I did 35 min run time max before recharge. It is bad practice to run until the protection kicks in and may it damage the boost circuit.

I would not do a 5 cell DD, too dangerous. I like my hands and would not want to part with them due to flashlight "pipe bomb".

Now that the driver has kicked the bucket, I could do a 3A ceiling bounce test with my bench supply.

Wow...it lasted 5 whole hours huh? That really blows.

I'm sorry to hear that SPAMBOT. I have this light and im not sure how many hours of burn time I have put it through but I have been using it off and on for about 2 weeks. It runs great and hasn't crapped out. The only thing I don't like about is the tailcap switch.

Hi everyone, New member but i have been studying on the "sideline" for quite a while..

Funny i feel like i know most of you already from countless nights rifling through hundreds of your threads..

Sorry SPAMBOT to hear about your burnup..

I had bought one of these L1 lights from ebay a couple months ago. I actually really love the thing.

It has a great flood that is super clean and a great color.. carries well with 2 batteries.

Its got a good heavy feel with a lot of metal in the head... oops. sorry to rant.

What i'm wondering is, how can i make it brighter.. its real bright but it seems to be very underutilized for power.

I have a c8 with a t6 and this has 5- t6's (obviously not nearly as much reflector) and it seems like the L1 has a lot left to give.. Is there a way to alter or replace the driver to up the amperage.. ??? DD??

Also i HATE the flashy strobe modes.. any magical way to get just high, med, low... (without throwing it against the wall)

I too dislike the tailcap button and ui on this and wish it was more like the c8. but its acceptable

This though is a great yard light at night and floods out some good light with no real hotspot..

Anyway i truly appreciate any advice as id like to hotrod this thing out a bit..

I have a bunch of flashlight projects going and look forward to contributing to the forum and benefiting from the knowledge you all have.. amazing forum. Thanks, Dave

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