My latest X6 Quad.
For this quad build, I used a 35mm Ledil "double dome" optic.
As you can see in the photo, it's shorter than a Ledil Cute optic, 9mm vs 15mm, so I'm going to have to add onto nitro's custom copper heatsink. It's design also does not allow for a glass lens in front, so I'll have that much more to raise it up.
Shallower reflectors than the Cute optic. I'm not really sure how that affects optics.
The domed top fits perfectly in the bezel, preventing any side to side movement.
The raised dome looks very professional.
Time to start. Time to start cutting copper. I don't measure, I just start with the thickest stock I have and keep adding to it until it's the right hight. Luckily I had some 10mm SinkPads handy, I'm going to need them.
Cutting and filing is all part of the process. It was around here that everything went south, but that's a separate thread. I recovered.
This should do it. Nitro's heatsink topped with my own, and what will be the emitter plate.
That's a lot of mass. This light will be top heavy, but well heatsinked.
This is the part where a complete failure is most likely to occur.
A wise person would safely affix the MCPCBs to the emitter plate with thermal adhesive, but not ouchyfoot. No, no, no. He wants to solder them down.
The problem with soldering, is that you need to leave the optic in place during the process so the emitters will be perfectly aligned with the optics.
...solder paste melting temperature vs optical plastic melting temperature. Place your bets now!
Here are the emitters and optic aligned with the emitter base. I'm going to the use hot air reflow from the underside to solder down the MCPCBs
Five different things could happen here, and four of them are bad.
Whew. All went well. I was taking into consideration that these optics can handle a bit of heat, and the fact that they were resting on top of the substrate, not the copper.
I originally planned to use XP-G2, but when I looked, I only had three, so I had to go with the Nichia 219C.
All wired up with 22AWG Teflon wire and a BLF A1 driver from BG.
This part is crucial, and had to be done last.
Without the legs of the optic connected to anything the only thing holding the optic in place are the domes of the Nichias. The slightest bit of pressure and tork when tightening the bezel is guaranteed to rip them right off, so I need anchors.
I used some of the copper tree the SinkPads were attached to so the hight would be the same. Drilled some holes and snipped them off.
Sanded them down to usable and unobtrusive size.
I got everything lined up so I could affix them in place with Artic Silver epoxy. I used a clamp to hold the optic down tight a left overnight to cure. There is no turning back here, as the optic will also be epoxied in place permanently. There was no way around it, which is why I left this part til last, after the emitters, heatsink, wiring and drivers were completely installed and tested.
Fits nice.
Comparison with another X6 with a flat Ledil Cute optic.
Yes. It works.
With my DMM I'm getting a tail reading of close to 9A with Samsung 30Q. Pretty much the exact same reading as my X6 triple 219C.
This baby can handle a lot of heat.
Is it bright? Of coarse it's bright? What did you expect.
Floodier beam than the triple.
This is all the typing I can do as my fingertips are bloody and sore from filing and sanding. I had more to mention, but I can't remember now.
Keep up the modding people.