DQG Tiny 4th 18650 xml-2 review

oh…lost this infos….oh no…thats bad for me…tripple is too hard to do.i wanted only new driver…so,thats the end of the moding…bleeeeeeeeeeeee:)))

my 4th tiny

did you open it??? :open_mouth:

Yep :slight_smile:
http://forum.fonarevka.ru/showthread.php?t=31935
more photo
http://forum.fonarevka.ru/album.php?albumid=1062

so driver change is possible…:slight_smile: or make a triple:)

make a triple will be not so easy.
It is necessary to make a new bezel. The diameter of the old 20,2mm. Optics will fall out from it.

It is a 22mm optic in stock form. Does anyone know where to get extras or floodier optics for this light?

https://www.fasttech.com/products/1607/10001027/4380501
+
https://www.fasttech.com/products/1606/10007055/1574902-21-2-12-6mm-pmma-optical-lens-for-cree-xm-l-t5-t6
+
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/New-flat-glass-watch-crystal-diameter-21-5mm-Thick-1mm/1097050471.html?spm=2114.30010308.3.1.I4YGUo&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_0,searchweb201602_4_10017_10005_10006_10034_10021_507_10022_10009_10020_10008_10018_10019,searchweb201603_9&btsid=49ff1652-3c04-46b5-a3b5-ea2fe93d133e

Serp, thanks! I did not see those when I was on FT….

I’ve converted a couple DQG Tiny IIIs into triples. Both of them also had the 20mm bezel, just like the Tiny IV.

Fortunately, it is not necessary to make a new bezel. Both of these solutions work:

  • Place a fat o-ring on top of the bezel. Just thick enough to project over the edge of the bezel onto the optic; or
  • Buy a 22mm AR coated plastic lens from flashlightlens.com. Then file part of the edge of the lens so just the edge is much flatter and fits under the bezel (this is the option I preferred for my lights). The lens sits on top of the optic and holds it all together.

More & more i’m want to do triple :slight_smile:
I’m think 21.5mm glass will good
Most of all, I try to make it.

As for the optics from FT, I tried on it without glasses. It’s held by rubber O-ring 22mm*1.5mm



Some nice suggestions there.

Be very careful if you’re using a thin glass lens to hold in the optic. I tried that and the lens cracked. Too much pressure against the edges of the lens. Glass lenses are great at resisting pressure when supported on both sides (as in most flashlights). They aren’t so good at resisting torquing action (only one side of the glass is supported while pressure tries to bends the glass (in this case around the edges of the optic). Also if you ever drop the light and it hits bezel down the impact will likely drive the optic through the lens.

To avoid this I recommend using an acrylic lens or an o-ring.

A triple or quad build seems possible with a custom heatsink sitting over that shelf or maybe even press fit to the body, but is there enough room for a piggyback in there?

need to grind the star to 19.1mm (+/-)
Make a spacer thickness of 2,05mm.
in the spacer should be a gap for the button


http://forum.fonarevka.ru/album.php?albumid=1062&pictureid=15253

this small baby flashlight is a atriple xplhi is really suicide…some convoy i have and its really hot model:)
but i would like to get this tiny with better driver and it would be enough.7 amps on IMR…

Yes, there’s enough room inside for a triple. You might even fit in a quad, though you’d have to file down the sides of the optic and star.

For the triple, there’s also enough room for a small heatsink behind the star

Yes, one downside is with the FET driver at max power, the head gets VERY hot very fast. Too hot too comfortably touch in 15 seconds is possible.

This was such a problem on my DQG Tiny III triple I ended up installing an external heatsink and button cover. This enlarged the head of the light, but made it able to run considerably longer without overheating.

Note that the Tiny III’s button is setup differently than the Tiny IV. In the Tiny III, the button is mounted inside its socket in the head and is connected to the driver via 2 tiny wires. In the Tiny IV, the button is part of the driver.

For purposes of modding the light into a triple, I think it’s easier to mount the button in the socket in the head rather than as part of the driver. Glue a replacement switch in place with arctic alumina then wire it to the driver. File off a notch in the star and heatsink so the switch wires can get from the switch to the driver. You can buy switches 50 to a pack for a few bucks on Ebay.

Here’s a link to my thread on Modding the DQG Tiny III into a Triple

The exact same mod can be done with the Tiny IV. The only changes you would need to make:

  • The Tiny IV’s head is actually removable from the body. They didn’t use too much glue. Instead of drilling out the center of the stock driver, simply unscrew the head and remove it. Then install a replacement driver. I haven’t measured exactly, but I suspect either a 20mm or 22mm FET driver from MtnElectronics would be the right size. Measure before you buy your driver.
  • Install a replacement microswitch in the head under the button boot with arctic alumina. You may need to slice off part of the inside bottom of the button boot to give enough room for the switch.

Be advised with a FET driver the head will get incredibly hot. This may not damage the light, but it could cause your pants or your hand to catch on fire. Use caution.

look at this lens

very good for triple

Considering buying this light, but I’m stuck between this or the HC30 NW by Nitecore… Anyone recommend one over the other? DQG wins in size and half the price but turbo sucks in comparison, probably worse build quality I imagine, and better tint on HC30… Will I miss the small size of 0.4 inches in length and 0.1 inch in diameter difference?
I own Nitecore MH20 and can’t EDC (too big to,carry, I don’t want to move to any smaller capacity battery because of losing so much battery time, 18650 or nothing!!) looking for replacement EDC. Thanks.